®evo03 Posted February 5 Share Posted February 5 I just dusted mine, can you stick dust back on? 🤔 I can't leave it another 5 years, must be dusty round these parts. Could make a living outta making cars dusty, I mean patina 😂 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRealExile Posted February 6 Share Posted February 6 Light spray of wd40 and then empty the hoover bag over it 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutty2006 Posted April 24 Author Share Posted April 24 After being home for months, I’ve finally “done a bit” on this. I have a snagging list of jobs to do. One of them is running a solid fuel pipe front to back. Some of the original pipe was still in place with all the rubber buffers, so I used copper nickel 7.9 and Coden R9 pipe to join at each end. I’ve not put a filter in yet, once I’ve got it running and happy I’ll scooch one in up front. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. I have enough room in this garage to work on it comfortably. But not quite enough room for two cars. Which is a shame. But can’t have it all! Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. next on my list is to sort the exhaust. Ordered some 50mm exhaust clamps and some rubber O rings to hang it. I’ll need to clean and treat the boot floor first before fitting it all. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutty2006 Posted April 27 Author Share Posted April 27 I put a gallon in the tank this evening and it runs. All be it lumpy but she runs. I have no gauges. No oil pressure light or gauge, no volt gauge no fuel gauge etc. I need to look into what does what. The loom and binicle are out of an SR. I have a few plugs and connectors hanging loose. Some are for the headlight wiper motors each side which I don’t need. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted April 28 Share Posted April 28 Haynes manual wiring diagram should help, pretty accurate at that age mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutty2006 Posted May 29 Author Share Posted May 29 Work has commenced on welding up the small areas that need attention spare wheel well needs bits of car cancer taking out and some new metal welding in Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. enjoying my new tool Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted May 29 Share Posted May 29 Good job. Had to change mine as it had gone around the drain hole and was better to just replace the whole well. Think that is first time I have seen a number stamped into that plate, not on an of the cars I have, although earliest is a 78shell so perhaps an early thing ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutty2006 Posted May 29 Author Share Posted May 29 3 hours ago, Jessopia74 said: Good job. Had to change mine as it had gone around the drain hole and was better to just replace the whole well. Think that is first time I have seen a number stamped into that plate, not on an of the cars I have, although earliest is a 78shell so perhaps an early thing ? Maybe so! This has 76 stamped in little numbers everywhere. I would have put a new well in but I’m a. Skint b. Not brilliant at welding/fabricating etc. c. Fed up of it sitting here, I want it on the road now. the overall plan is to get it road worthy. Unfortunately I don’t have the time, skill or money to do the same job as others do on their cars. I genuinely wish I could! I did consider at one point scrapping this car and just buying a tidy B1 a couple of years ago. And it’s still a possibility if I ever drop on a huge wedge of cash 🤣 So, the outer bit was repaired first. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. and welded in position Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. then a bigger piece glued into position. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. a liberal coating of seam sealer, zinc primer, satin black then stone chip was applied afterwards. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted May 29 Share Posted May 29 Nothing wrong with just repairing like you have, especially when it’s so minor. Literally only thing I would have done extra to what you have is angle grinder with a flap wheel to take down the weld so it’s smooth again. Good job that 👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutty2006 Posted May 29 Author Share Posted May 29 31 minutes ago, Jessopia74 said: Nothing wrong with just repairing like you have, especially when it’s so minor. Literally only thing I would have done extra to what you have is angle grinder with a flap wheel to take down the weld so it’s smooth again. Good job that 👍 I did most of it, but my flap disk is worn out and I don’t have any fresh ones at home 🤦♂️🤣 Now that the well wall is repaired, I have fitted the exhaust completely. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutty2006 Posted May 29 Author Share Posted May 29 Another job ticked off the list of ever increasing jobs…. Both inner wheel arches where the belt mount bolts in were rusted out. Seeing as this car doesn’t need rear belts, they were deleted. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. the lower section of the outer was repaired first. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. I got so carried away I forgot to carry on taking pictures… And this is the final result. also tidied up the back of the sill that was welded on by a pair of blokes up in Leigh many many years ago. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. I’ve had a pair of rear shockers on the shelf for …. hmmmm … over 10 years. They’re both a bit feeble but hey, that’s what NOS parts are all about! Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. so I did the right thing and fitted them anyway. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. next in this area is to take the brakes apart and replace the wheel cylinders. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutty2006 Posted May 29 Author Share Posted May 29 Brake drum came off with a couple of hits from the copper persuasion tool. The shoes, probably asbestos, don’t look in bad condition for being stood for 34 years. I’ll replace the cylinders, clean and freshen all the moving parts up and rebuild. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted May 30 Share Posted May 30 11 hours ago, Sutty2006 said: Brake drum came off with a couple of hits from the copper persuasion tool. The shoes, probably asbestos, don’t look in bad condition for being stood for 34 years. I’ll replace the cylinders, clean and freshen all the moving parts up and rebuild. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Seal kit? if the bores are good in the cylinders I would keep them original. But that is impressive in there for 34years without service. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutty2006 Posted May 30 Author Share Posted May 30 1 hour ago, Jessopia74 said: Seal kit? if the bores are good in the cylinders I would keep them original. But that is impressive in there for 34years without service. Those little feet that pop out are heavily corroded, and now they’re out they’re leaking. I’ll save them, and if they can be redone I’ll put them to one side. Just ordered 2 new ones off eBay for 23 quid 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted May 30 Share Posted May 30 yeah the feet just sit into a recess in the piston on each side, then the seals are likely perished/hard with the age. Probably could not even get a seal kit for £23 anyway ! Don't forget to replace ALL the brake fluid in the system (front/rear) whilst your doing this. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutty2006 Posted May 30 Author Share Posted May 30 3 hours ago, Jessopia74 said: yeah the feet just sit into a recess in the piston on each side, then the seals are likely perished/hard with the age. Probably could not even get a seal kit for £23 anyway ! Don't forget to replace ALL the brake fluid in the system (front/rear) whilst your doing this. Yeah I’ve done that already. Refurbished master cylinder and new lines/hoses all over. Just need to do the cylinders now and it’s good to go, that’s if the calipers are ok. They’re ones I pulled off a 78 Berlinetta a few years ago. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted May 30 Share Posted May 30 I prefer the twin pots over the later sliders. Always had a great pedal feel with the twin pots, think mine came off a rekrord estate or something similar as they was wider for the vented disc that was direct replacement. The pedal is not too bad on the 1.8 with the later Astra GTE calipers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted May 30 Share Posted May 30 Think GT source have manufactured a block to fit between caliper split, to allow for vented disk. 👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted May 30 Share Posted May 30 54 minutes ago, ®evo03 said: Think GT source have manufactured a block to fit between caliper split, to allow for vented disk. 👍 Not surprised, pretty easy to do. Alloy block and O-rings. Used to be a little mail order company in UK that made these kits and also for the Volvo 4 Pot calipers, although I quickly sold the Volvo ones on as the pedal travel was a concern. I do have a pair of calipers TBH now I think about it. Are the Vented discs still readily available ? I best go look 🧐 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted May 30 Share Posted May 30 Think the discs are 2.2 Carlton. Vented. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutty2006 Posted June 1 Author Share Posted June 1 Today whilst looking for an alternator, I found a box with some new shoes in! And they are “asbestos free”! So I may as well replace it all. I just don’t have any new drums. Will have to inspect them. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted June 1 Share Posted June 1 Not like rears do much anyway mate. So long as they not oval, will be good 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutty2006 Posted June 1 Author Share Posted June 1 28 minutes ago, Jessopia74 said: Not like rears do much anyway mate. So long as they not oval, will be good Yeah just gonna clean them up and refit. Unless they’re totalled, but I can’t see why. Very early adjuster on them too, just a turny nob on each shoe 🤣 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutty2006 Posted June 1 Author Share Posted June 1 More done tonight. had no alt light or any charge at all. 11.97v running. found another alternator and fitted that, still 11.97v. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Took the little earth wire off the bottom, wiggled it, checked it’s continuity (ok) then refitted and now I have a battery light and 13v. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. I will replace that little wire next. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutty2006 Posted June 4 Author Share Posted June 4 I’ve replaced the wire today. Made a new small wire at work. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. fitted it. Back to having no battery light and 11.98v. confused. Ive put the original wire back on, and fitted the new wire to the top alt bracket where it meets the block. Now I have 12.5v at idle. Am I missing something here? Is this little earth not good enough? I find it weird that the original goes to an alloy bracket, which alloy isn’t really very conductive. But has conductivity through the steel bolt, which is clean. Unsure where to go with this one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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