Snowy Posted January 1, 2010 Share Posted January 1, 2010 What rust killers/removers do people use that give really good long lasting results? This is to clear surface rust off the underside of the car. Please assume I cannot get a shot blaster in or have the shell dipped etc. I'm just interested in people’s opinions of rust killers/removers. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
upk Posted January 1, 2010 Share Posted January 1, 2010 (edited) very pleased with dinitrol rc900 http://www.rust.co.uk/home.cfm converts the rust back into a stable compound!! readily available via ebay! Edited January 1, 2010 by upk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted January 1, 2010 Share Posted January 1, 2010 all the rust removers \ convertors simply convert into a supposedly stable surface. im sure everyone on here has tried most of them .they seem to convert to a hard black surface which is supposed to be ok to paint over. in my experience nothing seems to work permanently untill i discovered DEOX. THIS IS FROM A COMPANY CALLED BILT HAMBER & COMES AS A POWDER YOU MIX WITH WATER & IMMERSE PARTS IN.(DEOX-C) OR AS A GEL THAT YOU BRUSH ON ,LEAVE THEN WASH OFF. THESE REMOVE THE RUST COMPLETELY. I DONT FULLY KNOW HOW BUT IT SEEMS TO ACTUALLY WORK.A VERY RUSTY & PITTED SUSPENSION ARM THAT I PUT INTO THE SOLUTION HAS COME OUT TOTALLY RUST FREE\BARE METAL AS IF IT HAD BEEN BLASTED.JUST WISH I HAD DISCOVERED IT YEARS AGO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEPETE Posted January 1, 2010 Share Posted January 1, 2010 I would advise buying yor own sandblaster, Frosts sell a couple of good DIY ones, I have had one for approx 20 years, but you need to prime the cleaned areas as soon as possible as surface rust will form... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
costasa Posted January 1, 2010 Share Posted January 1, 2010 Take a look on this site http://www.kbs-coatings.com/ There are a british suplier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowy Posted January 2, 2010 Author Share Posted January 2, 2010 Cheers guys. Anyone have any long term opinions of any of these methods? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulmanta Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 I have been using the bilt hamber stuff for years, I mix up a bin full of the powder using hot water and leave the item to be de-rusted in it for days, i stir it occasionally and when its ready I remove it and jet wash it, The process removes a surprising amount of paint as well which is good, i then dry the part with a hot air gun and then I sand blast it to remove the rest of the paint and any stubborn rust. when its finished I blow it off and heat it up again and etch prime, then prime then top coat with matt black and then laquer. Most of the bits I do are suspension components and all the ones I have done so far have yet to rust again, some have been done for several years now and have been used on cars with no issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 yeah actually REMOVINGthe rust has to be better than just trying to convert it to a stable surface. also the deox c bath doesnt affect rubber so you can put items in still with bushes in. best £15 per time ever spent ! after i did my suspension arms i painted them with 2 coats on epoxy mastic paint from RUSTBUSTER. this sets so strong the mot station had jacked up under the arm but had caused no damage ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowy Posted January 2, 2010 Author Share Posted January 2, 2010 I have used the powered stuff from Bilt hamber but i cannot drop the shell into the solution. The gel version i have never found to be as good. I think i'm going to buy a better compressor and go down the shot blasting route. As i do not like the idea of rust convertors. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mort Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 Hi, I've used MetalReady POR15 (available from Frost, was recommended by a mechanic friend) in the past and found that decent. It's a converter though, not like the aforementioned stuff. I used it on a Scimitar chassis but I no longer have that so couldn't offer any long term feedback. Terry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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