mantapaperman Posted June 1, 2011 Share Posted June 1, 2011 hi all. just grafted new steel into front floors above jacking points. the jacking points are removed and knackered, would it affect the strength/ integraty of the shell if i just made some new ones myself out of say box section or similar? i dont use them to jack car up anyway..cheers any advice gratefully app Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Posted June 1, 2011 Share Posted June 1, 2011 (edited) hi all. just grafted new steel into front floors above jacking points. the jacking points are removed and knackered, would it affect the strength/ integraty of the shell if i just made some new ones myself out of say box section or similar? i dont use them to jack car up anyway..cheers any advice gratefully app [/quot You can do away with them if you want to, as they don't come under an MOT inspection anyway, as for making your own out of pipe or box section, I think that as you don't use your jacking points, that is a sound idea, as you are replacing any strengh to the chassis that was taken away whenremoving the jacking points I assume you carry a jack in the boot if the occasion arises that you would have to change a wheel. Edited June 1, 2011 by Julian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantasrme Posted June 1, 2011 Share Posted June 1, 2011 Yeah no problem using box section, thats what i normally do if the originals are rotten unless trying to keep the car standard. There does need to be something there as it isn't just a jacking point it also ties the a-piller into the chassis rail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Abbott Posted June 1, 2011 Share Posted June 1, 2011 The jacking point is only that ' a jacking point' so if you don't use it or as i did years ago and tried to on a lowered Manta find out you can't get the angle to insert the jacking tube into, cut it off, plate over and use a scissor type jack from any car in the scrappers. The jacking point does not tie into the 'a' post on a Manta, it curls up just behind the inner sill It is spot welded to the inner sill and that in turn is spot welded to the outer sill and the outer is connected to the 'a' post To tie the jacking point to the 'a' post you need to cut out the inner sill ans add a 25mm ish box or angle section to join the two. Cheers Kev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ray70 Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 Thats good to hear because I've done away with mine also on my A series. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantapaperman Posted June 2, 2011 Author Share Posted June 2, 2011 thanyou all for the speedy replys!..so i can use what i want and it doesnt have to curl up the sill like original? was thinking a 80mm x 40mm piece of box section 2 or 3mm thick.. spose i could try to curve it up the sill but it might be a fiddle..cheers again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retro Power Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 Without going into fine detail, as mantasrme implied, the "jacking point" is a critical chassis strengthener, which feeds a reasonable amount of load from the a-post into the rail, without it all the load is via the bulkhead, which is wobbly at best. You need something there, but something home made from box section would be fine. Ps the reason the jacking point is not directly welded into the main a pillar is because of the way the shell was built on the line, the complete body sides, with qtr, sill and a post, are fitted as a unit to the complete floor assembly, already complete with bulkhead, a panels, floor, (which obviously includes inner sill portion of floor) rails and jacking points etc etc. The flange on the end of the jacking point acts as a spreader to distribute load from the pillar into it via the edge of the floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantapaperman Posted June 2, 2011 Author Share Posted June 2, 2011 thanks retro power.. if i use 100mm x 50mm x 3mm section. cut in half like a triangle if you know what i mean..thick part starting at chassis leg tapering to the thin bit at sill. leave in slightly longer there to weld to the bit that goes upm the a pillar.. i removed the old one but only cut of at sill so can weld new section back to it..what you think..hope i aint baffled you with bull..cheers steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retro Power Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 Nope that sounds spot on, nice and strong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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