davo Posted November 19, 2012 Share Posted November 19, 2012 I've fitted a replacement rad to my gte Leave car running and within 10-15 mins the gauge is up in the red Knowing manta gauges are suspect I've rigged up an aftermarket gauge,and this agrees with manta gauge. Top hose get hot,but does not pressurise,bottom hose stays cold,so I've fitted a new stat. Still the same. I've drained system and slowly refilled via heater hose,but to no avail Can anyone help/ suggest something Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiney_norman Posted November 19, 2012 Share Posted November 19, 2012 If the top hose gets hot I wouldn't think the stat was the problem. Will water pass through the rad if you take it out and stick a hosepipe in the top? If it's been sitting for a while it may be blocked with sludge and just need flushing through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ems Posted November 19, 2012 Share Posted November 19, 2012 temperature sender unit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davo Posted November 19, 2012 Author Share Posted November 19, 2012 When I drained the system I removed the bottom hose and it drained the rad fine, so I think rad is clear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davo Posted November 19, 2012 Author Share Posted November 19, 2012 Changed sender for a new one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dog321fish Posted November 19, 2012 Share Posted November 19, 2012 Is the heater working or have you got a massive airlock? HTH Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davo Posted November 19, 2012 Author Share Posted November 19, 2012 Heater hoses are getting hot. So heater working Have thought big air lock,so have drained and refilled slowly via heater hose till water came out of rad cap! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stradacab Posted November 19, 2012 Share Posted November 19, 2012 I know you say you have rigged and aftermarket gauge but if you feed it 12v you will replicate the problem with the cars one if the regulator is kaput. If you did NOT have the problem before replacing the rad then it is unlikley, but can I ask you check the regulator again or try a semiconductor one (9 quid on ebay) just to deffo rule it out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davo Posted November 19, 2012 Author Share Posted November 19, 2012 Thanks for the tip stradacab So can it be the regulator even if I have wired the new gauge straight from the battery? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davo Posted November 19, 2012 Author Share Posted November 19, 2012 Don't suppose you got an eBay link for one have you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manta400john Posted November 20, 2012 Share Posted November 20, 2012 Thanks for the tip stradacab So can it be the regulator even if I have wired the new gauge straight from the battery? Cheers Think you've answered your own question there! Regards the new thermostat you've fitted, GTE 'stat is a two stage type, carb'd CIH ones are single....... maybe wrong one supplied ?? I'd get one of the regulators S'cab has mentioned and take it form there. John. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dog321fish Posted November 20, 2012 Share Posted November 20, 2012 Non listed at the moment but this is a link to a previous one so you can contact him http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Semiconductor-Voltage-Stabilizer-Vauxhall-Opel-Manta-/280949346889?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3AManta&hash=item4169e2d249 HTH Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monzta Posted November 20, 2012 Share Posted November 20, 2012 Only two options imo. Either your sender is acting crazy or you have some massive airpockets in your engine. I think it may be the last one as this is a very typical bug when fiddling around with the cooling system... You need to take off your radiator lid, start the engine and wait for the thermostate to open. Then you loosen the phillips screw on the top of the thermostate housing and bleed the thing. You will get loads of steam here, when coolant runs out from here you close the screw on the thermostate housing. Then you top op the radiator with coolant and you are done. The CIH kan be troublesome to remove airpockets from so it may help to flush the system first using a garden hose. The above will never hurt so maybe you ought to try this first ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davo Posted November 20, 2012 Author Share Posted November 20, 2012 Latest update Still not cured I have tried another voltage reg,but not a new one.still no different I have emailed eBay seller about ordering one as none listed at the mo. Have drained system and refilled again via heater hose. I have noted that the stat housing is a lot hotter than the top hose is,and the water in the rad is not as hot as the stat housing. Does this suggest that the water is not circulating? Can a water pump fail or is it a case that if fan is spinning then pump is turning? I do realise that an airlock will not allow circulation but I'm pretty sure is not locked now.. I have also blown down the top heater hose and seen water push out of heater matrix,so therefore clear. What am I missing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OPEL PARTS GREECE Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 (edited) Sorry to tell but the problem seems to be the new rad.......the Genuine or the OEM must have 2 beehive rows and the repro ones usually have 3 or even worse 4 beehive rows .....so since you have low prm the FAN BLADE cooling system does not have enough power to ventilate the heat..... so either you will have another FAN BLADE at 360 dia for ex(from heavy duty cooling (about 32+ Euros cost) .....or install an electric fan......(or even worse replace it with the correct radiator) Edited November 21, 2012 by OPEL PARTS GREECE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davo Posted November 21, 2012 Author Share Posted November 21, 2012 The new rad is an original from another gte that I have. It has been flushed through I have also taken the car for a short run and the temp is still up high Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dog321fish Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 (edited) Recently had a Manta radiator re-cored because the original was "spotting", hot in places and cold in others. When flushed with a hose pipe the water appeared to flow freely but it was just by-passing the internal blockages. Cost £102.00, 2 working day turnaround if delivered to them, probably too far for you as they are in North Wales. . HTH Edited November 21, 2012 by dog321fish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monzta Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 Have you vented the system by unfastening the screw at the top of the thermostate housing ? You need to vent it ! At the left top you can see that the lid of the thermostate housing has a screw. This is where you vent the system. Do NOT disconnect any hoses, just undo this screw and let the engine run until water sprays from the screw. Other than that your thermostate can be roasted but this is a long shot. As you have changed radiator and coolant this is most likely where the problem lies. And as you say, you new rad is fine, then it can only be the coolant = air bubble in the system ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dog321fish Posted November 30, 2012 Share Posted November 30, 2012 davo Has venting via the thermostat housing solved your issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lamchop77 Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 Heres a good one for you then!!! I had an overheating problem many moons ago which cooked the engine and i think cracked the head, hence the reason for taking my coupe off the road. Everything was fine, rad flowed fine, thermostat opened defo no airlocks as the heater was working. The culprit........the hose that connects the waterpump to the themostat housing. The spring inside was no more this allowed the pipe to collapse as the revs increased virtually cutting off the supply. At tickover to 2000 rpm everything was ok, only started collapsing after that. Check the pipe still has its spring intact! HTH Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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