Manta Messing About

[poddy]

i am having problems with the aul gal . went 15 miles to mot 2 weeks ago , no problem . on the way home it cut out and back on again . eventually gave up and had to tow home . put on a new coil . took for a drive yesterday . done 3 miles and it done the same again . could it be the ignition module or what ??

[spiney_norman]

Could be any number of things, what sort of engine is it? Could be ignition module, fuel pump/relay, I've even had similar problems with old spark plugs in my Cav.

[poddy]

thank you for reply . its a cih with i240 spec . i tried a different relay off another manta and made no difference . should the coil be warm after a short drive . cant go for a run until i get it sorted .

[®evo03]

Had the same problem about a yr ago, with a xe Pod. My bets its electrical. intermittent fault,

When I wanted it to do it, letting it takeover outside for hours on end it wouldn't, go for a drive, of course it would.

it did drive me mad after about two weeks of torture, it was main power wire to coil.

previous to this, swopped ecu, coils, leads, plugs, fuel pumps, relays, stripped every wire off, cleaned connectors.

put it this way there wasn't much I didn't do!

as the manta 1.8 loom is wired to xe, black wire, the wire connector was a tad loose, PROBLEM CURED

Either, go over all electric components again one by one in the engine bay. Make sure earths are clean and tight

you should have an earth on the injection system, also engine block/bellhousing to chassis leg.

been along time since I have even seen a GTE engine bay! ha,ha!

if you have swopped over from another car, ign module, coil, fuel relay, also check plug leads & plugs.

Had a XE coil lead corroded inside! take it an I240 is a 2.4 lump, same as 2.0 GTE, or FRONTERA 2.4i.

Take it you got the fuel sorted, return is from the regulator. fuel flow from pump is direct into T piece, up on the fuel rail.

If you can get it misbehaving at home, try changing in this order fuel relay, fuel pump, check filter is arrowed!

make sure fuses are clean, and tight. (try searching here for 2p trick)

other than that Pod, its pretty basic, again if you get it to misbehave, I would disconnect fuel flow line, crank her for a few sec, it should nearly fill a small drinks bottle with a few cranks. Then spark!

Two main ingredients, fuel, & spark. (hold plug away from plug port.)

Keep us posted, how ur getting on, if anything it could help someone else in the future going mad!!

As I said before Im no mechanic!

Edited May 26, 2014 by brady

[mantadoc]

"Road side checks" These can be done without specialist tools and quickly

First port of call is the 2P trick while problem exists, you don't even have to leave your seat (GTE specific)

Next check for spark (following all safety necessary precautions)

If no spark remove the female push on connector on the green wire form the coil, then remove the female push on connector on the green wire from the ignition module from the male push on connector on the green wire that is attached to the female previously removed from the coil, and put it on the coil.

If you now get a spark the fault is in the "male to female" splitter on the now hanging loose green wire. Only 1.8 non injected can run like this because even though spark is restored on a 1.8 the rev counter is disabled, on a GTE the rev counter wire also triggers the fuel injectors via where it is Teed into on the by heater fan connector (square 4 spade connector)

If at home and with tools I would do different stuff but there is a limit to what I can describe for others to try at the road side.

Typical failure of the fuel pump relay (as long as left plugged in) is mitigated by the 2P trick

Cars will run fine with throttle switch disconnected (it only comes into play at max throttle and no throttle, rest of the time is open circuit) - test by disconnect / substitution / replace

Cars will idle with the AFM wire disconnected but will stall as soon as throttle pressed - to be expected NEVER MESS WITH THE CO SCREW in the mistaken thought it is the idle screw

Cars can / will flood if thermo time switch fails - clamp or blank blue injector pipe / disconnect wire / replace thermo time switch

Cars will rev to 1500 RPM or higher and climb if auxiliary air valve sticks - pinch pipe flat to restore normal idle to diagnose, clean or replace to fix

[poddy]

i put on a new ignition module today and took for a run . after 1 mile it started missing again so back to the head scratching again . trying to eliminate things 1 by 1 . hope it not the dizzy . what was done to the dizzy by irmscher for 2.4 engines ??

[mantadoc]

i put on a new ignition module today and took for a run . after 1 mile it started missing again so back to the head scratching again . trying to eliminate things 1 by 1 . hope it not the dizzy . what was done to the dizzy by irmscher for 2.4 engines ??

From your previous description there was no clear reason to swap the amp, therefore you may have introduced more problems not improved things by randomly changing stuff

The first thing you do if you suspect a spark issue or lack of a spark is................

...........check for a spark NOT change stuff without checking

[lamchop77]

Check the connector on the dizzy, the wires can break where they go inside the dizzy which can cause intermittent problems. Have u checked all the leads and rotor arm?

[eldoradoCoupe]

Hi, glad to hear you're getting that yoke finished up!

This may be of no use but thought I'd share a fault I had with my gte when I 1st got it just in case it helps.

It used to randomly die on me sometimes after 10 miles, sometimes more. Wasn't sure if it was fuel or spark so I stuck a universal oil pressure gauge I had onto the 5th injector to check fuel pressure. I went for a drive and found fuel pressure was dropping when it died. I replaced the pump thinking I was done but same thing a day or 2 later so i connected 2 long wires to fuel pump, just ring terminals, and taped them up the side of the car, in through the window and went for a drive with multimeter on my lap. Fuel pressure dropped again but voltage steady. Thought how can it be the new pump so pulled it all apart and found the pump inlet all choked up. Ended up taking the tank out, flushing with marine cleaner and cleaning the pump and inlet hoses, tank sender/pickup pipe and replacing the filter. Problem never came back.

Good luck with it.

Edited May 31, 2014 by eldoradoCoupe

[moodoo]

Don't know if you're still struggling with this one? Mine would do something similar to yours, cutting out after 5-10 miles, but only on hot days. I went through almost exactly the same steps as eldoradoCoupe (while I was at it, I took the gauze off the sender in the tank and installed an inline prefilter instead), but didn't find anything. My problem turned out to be the wiring to the fuel pump. Just where the live wire was crimped to the spade connector, the conductors were broken, so that only one ot two strands were actually intact. As the two strands got hotter from carrying all the current, the resistance went up to the point that the fuel pump couldn't draw enough current. Guess they were so marginal that high ambient temperature pushed it too far. I ran a new section of wiring and all was well. Don't know if it's any help, but good luck with it anyway...!

[poddy]

thanks for the replies all . took car for a spin lastnight for about 7 miles and it cut out once . will have alook at all yous have advised . many thanks again ..

[poddy]

well the latest episode was on saturday evening , took the manta out a spin and wallah .. she broke down again . well pissed off . so the mechanic came up this evening and changed the whoke distributor and ---------------------------------------- we have blastoff . happy boy now .. cant wait until the weekend .. show time ..