Ems Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 There's water getting into the car (85 Coupe) in various places, the drivers side is quite bad - have adjusted the glass but it's still getting in. On the passenger side it's getting in at the front of the glass above the mirror. Also the boot has a new rubber seal and that's still leaking. I would be grateful of any suggestions. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 Boot Look if the leading edge of the boot is raised- typically denotes a light rear panel shunt, if so to bring it down either 4) Not related to seal: Rear window leaking through parcel shelf / quarter seams 3) Replace hinges (hard) 2) Cut and weld hinges (possible) 1) Washers under the two bolts nearest rear of car between hinge and boot lid (easy / bodge fix for elimination) Interior 1)Take carpets out now if still fitted, the foam soundproofing once wet is floor death 2) Pull floor bungs ASAP - lets some water out 3) Did you put some non-setting sealer under the metal channels that carry the window rubbers on the roof / A pillar 4) Dust interior with flour or talk and look for the water tracks in it to let you know where it really comes in 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ems Posted December 30, 2015 Author Share Posted December 30, 2015 Thanks for the reply, car only has carpet, didn't put sound deadening back in. I'll have to drill holes as the previous owner welded plates over all the holes in the floor and boot. There was no rot around any of the rear windows, and they've all been sealed with arbormast windscreen sealant. The boot sits properly. Good question regarding the sealant under the metal channels - I can't remember, I'll have to check. I'll try the dusting, might have to grate coloured chalk as talc won't show up to well on white. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 Tail lights especially if dips at joints Rear panel fitted on top of quarter corners instead of under Fuel filler rubber gappy or flap fixings Capillary action under seals if not pinching tight Still check under parcel shelf - the parts you are sure are ok without checking are the ones you never find issues with Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ems Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share Posted December 31, 2015 Thanks for more suggestions, what's the rear panel bit you're on about? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted January 1, 2016 Share Posted January 1, 2016 Rear quarter to rear panel, vertical seam above and below tail lights are brazed at factory to seal, seldom done on replacement and dip in often if rear panel replaced. Also the bit on the rear quarter that has the radius the boot seal goes on as it runs around the quarter circle to join the rear panel, that whole piece sits on top of the rear panel or should do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 WOW , Mantadoc, did you design the MANTA?!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ems Posted January 8, 2016 Author Share Posted January 8, 2016 A quick update, the boot is now dry - it was leaking around the lights. It seems to be letting in water at the front of the door windows, above the mirror mountings. Is there a easy way of getting the windows lined up properly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 On 03/01/2016 at 9:28 AM, Julian said: WOW , Mantadoc, did you design the MANTA?!!! Lol no, but thinking about it the only things I've never had to weld on one is the internal roof frame and the box section that runs side to side behind the dash and the odd bracket here and there. You soon find the bronze when you drill out spot welds and they still don't come apart or when welding and the metal evaporates 18 hours ago, Ems said: A quick update, the boot is now dry - it was leaking around the lights. It seems to be letting in water at the front of the door windows, above the mirror mountings. Is there a easy way of getting the windows lined up properly? Hatchback doors and coupe doors are the same.......but hatch back doors come with hatch windows which are a bit higher on the rear corner, so it adjusted for a coupe they lean back and take a bit of pressure off the seal. This assumes it is not coming in between the channel which holds the seal and the roof seam and it is not just the step in the seal from window to mirror where it is making it's way between the rubber and door rather than rubber and body. You can also take the door panels off and adjust the runner angles out at the bottom to put more pressure on the seals. Also look for the bit of plastic bonded to the window glass bottom that positively fits in the top of the runner to ensure good pressure on the seals (with door open and window up it window wobbles easily in / out these may have dropped off) -- ACTUALLY CHECK THIS FIRST Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plumster Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 On 08/01/2016 at 6:05 PM, Ems said: A quick update, the boot is now dry - it was leaking around the lights. It seems to be letting in water at the front of the door windows, above the mirror mountings. Is there a easy way of getting the windows lined up properly? If the windows simply won't line up at front or top of rear no matter what you do, then as Mantadoc says you probably have the wrong glass in there. I know this as it took me nearly 10 years to find that out, info that came from this forum I might add. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ems Posted January 23, 2016 Author Share Posted January 23, 2016 Another update, I removed the metal trim that holds the window rubbers and put more sealant on them - the inside of the windows and door cards are now dry. I still have some water coming in on the drivers side, I'll try re-sealing the windscreen to see if that makes a difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
opelmantagsi Posted January 24, 2016 Share Posted January 24, 2016 water ingress through the top of the A pillar between the body and the metal trim that holds the rubber seals. the trim needs to be removed and non setting mastic sealer added at the angle between the roof and the A pillar. pull the rubbers and unscrew the trim to do it properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.