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Oil cooler


ANDY ABBOTT
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Is anyone running an oil cooler on their cih ? My 2.4 in the i240 r build came with oil cooler setup. Now I'm concerned about oil starvation as the pipes are quite think  plus the cooler it's self fills up. Surly these things must drain a lot of oil from the sump ? The bottom end was ruined on this when I got it after it previously bring rebuilt by previous keeper. I'm wondering if that's what possibly caused the damage. I've since had this fully rebuilt, and don't fancy it being ruined again 😲 

 

Obviously I've thought about adding more oil to fill the cooler, but then I'm wurried about over fill, if it drains back into sump.

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20200226_115341.jpg

Edited by ANDY ABBOTT
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2 hours ago, Jessopia74 said:

Honestly, there really is no requirement for an oil cooler here, since your not going to be driving it on track.

If there was a need for oil cooling, then you should be dry sumping it anyway. 

My thoughts exactly mate. It came with the car, and adapter plate, mounts already on car etc.. and was going to fit it back on. But then got to thinking, why bother ? 

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9 hours ago, ANDY ABBOTT said:

My thoughts exactly mate. It came with the car, and adapter plate, mounts already on car etc.. and was going to fit it back on. But then got to thinking, why bother ? 

Agreed, unless you are going to bolt a turbo on, just take it off.

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I'd remove it also, it isn't really needed on a cih for road use and it would tidy up the engine bay more without it there.

But the cooler shouldn't drain back to the sump if there is a thermostatic valve fitted (either as part of the adaptor plate or as a seperate unit in the lines). That will keep the oil in the cooler and lines when its closed/cold. You do want to fill the cooler and lines with oil though before starting the car the first time, otherwise when the valve opens at temp the oil pressure will drop as it fills from the engine feed.

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32 minutes ago, mantasrme said:

I'd remove it also, it isn't really needed on a cih for road use and it would tidy up the engine bay more without it there.

But the cooler shouldn't drain back to the sump if there is a thermostatic valve fitted (either as part of the adaptor plate or as a seperate unit in the lines). That will keep the oil in the cooler and lines when its closed/cold. You do want to fill the cooler and lines with oil though before starting the car the first time, otherwise when the valve opens at temp the oil pressure will drop as it fills from the engine feed.

I don't think there is a valve on it not that I can see anyway. I think this is the reason the bottom end was garbage when I got it. I think the cooler has starved the sump. I'll remove it. Thanks for the replys

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When I look at one of your pics I can see the adapter plate but no thermo-valve. Only something like a temp. sensor. So even when the engine is cold the oil can't get warm, for street use not healthy for your engine:

20190915_195809.jpg

This is my "400" engine with an adapter plate with thermo-valve, it is hidden behind the big hexagon "screw". So when the engine is cold the oil doesn't flow in the cooler:

6MCv9Fd.jpg

Would also remove it.

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8 hours ago, H-400 said:

When I look at one of your pics I can see the adapter plate but no thermo-valve. Only something like a temp. sensor. So even when the engine is cold the oil can't get warm, for street use not healthy for your engine:

20190915_195809.jpg

This is my "400" engine with an adapter plate with thermo-valve, it is hidden behind the big hexagon "screw". So when the engine is cold the oil doesn't flow in the cooler:

6MCv9Fd.jpg

Would also remove it.

Thanks herman. Coolers are domthing in not very familiar with. Sounds like it'll end up doing more harm than good. Ive today began to remove it, gog all pipes outthe way, just the cooler it's self to unholy. Got me Mr rutts coming over next week to help me with setting up the top end and to balance the carbs, and hopefully get it running. It will then go to performance centre for a full set up, and road session. 

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