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Coupe rear boot adjust.


Kal001
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Hi 

Does anyone know if it’s possible ( and how) to adjust the boot on a coupe? 
The passenger side on mine is sitting a few mm higher and I’m getting water in the spare wheel well. I’ve changed the seal and it’s improved but I still get a little puddle in there. 
 

luckily I’ve covered the area with rust eater and Lanoguard so rust isn’t an issue but ultimately I’d like to stop it.  
 

Massive thanks in advance. B453B7E0-DF35-47D7-9931-A6D27BE4EA23.thumb.jpeg.ff545bbaf358882c99bd88aa89dcf5bb.jpeg

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8 hours ago, Jessopia74 said:

The hinges bend over time, there is only so much adjustment with the bolt slides, rest is going to need heat to reform the arc. For safety and best access it’s tank and rear seats out to do.

Thanks for the info - appreciated. Just wondered if it was a simple  diy job - obviously not!! 
Might see if there’s any adjustment on the hinge bolts as they’ve never been adjusted. 
Had the tank out recently - to change all the fuel pipes recently - Sod’s law !! 

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2 hours ago, Kal001 said:

Thanks for the info - appreciated. Just wondered if it was a simple  diy job - obviously not!! 
Might see if there’s any adjustment on the hinge bolts as they’ve never been adjusted. 
Had the tank out recently - to change all the fuel pipes recently - Sod’s law !! 

Check to make sure there is no wear on the hinge pins too, as that will allow the lip closest edge to rear screen to also raise up. As for doing the task. Yes it could be done DIY. the heat you need to get into the hinge itself can be done with a larger plumbers torch, possibly the hotter MAPP too. Unless they gave an induction heater&coils large enough to suitably get it hot!  But it’s going to be a 2 person job anyway. Heat hinge till it’s hot and then gently push down on the boot lid to rebend the hinge very slightly, lots of trial/error on it as it’s small amounts needed! Most of the time involved is going to be getting it safe to do. And removing the rear seats is easy enough for safety and will help getting in too.

Sorry I do not have any pictures, but myself and my friend did mine a while back, I am fortunate to have use of oxygen&propane setup so that part of getting heat in was really easy. We actually over did it a couple of times, so needed to have a wooden block to wedged above it to rebend upwards. 

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another way to overcome adjustment issues without replacing or bending the hinge is to fit spacers under the hinge bolts (.washers.)but only one one bolt. this will raise or lower the hinge as req and pull it closer when shut. yes it may not look as good but tapered spacers would work and look best if you could make some.

the adjustment already provided only moves the lid in or out / makes square.

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38 minutes ago, cam.in.head said:

another way to overcome adjustment issues without replacing or bending the hinge is to fit spacers under the hinge bolts (.washers.)but only one one bolt. this will raise or lower the hinge as req and pull it closer when shut. yes it may not look as good but tapered spacers would work and look best if you could make some.

the adjustment already provided only moves the lid in or out / makes square.

That’s a grand idea with a wedged shaped block as a retrofit part. Guess it would need shims with it for fine adjustment. Could be a great little product for a 3D printer to produce 

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It's usually the passangers side, as the spare wheel not placed correctly and forces hinge up. 

Or bigger wheel. Remember they where originally produced for 13 inch rims. 

Great fix with spacer between hinge and boot lid, but as above this will lower the hinge and bring it ever closer to spare wheel. 

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