BerlinettaBoy Posted July 18, 2023 Share Posted July 18, 2023 (edited) Hey, I've got a leaking pinion seal(i think it's that anyway) on my rear axle differential. I'm struggling to find the correct torque spec for retightening the bolt that you tighten the pinion seal back on with. I found one thread about a Kadette which mentioned doing it to 250 ft pounds, but that's not my vehicle and I'd like to confirm the exact specs, as doing it incorrectly can be catastrophic! My Manta is a 1985 Berlinetta 1.8s Edited July 18, 2023 by BerlinettaBoy Added a picture of where the leak seems to be coming from Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Pounsett Posted July 18, 2023 Share Posted July 18, 2023 Someone will be along shortly to help you with this @BerlinettaBoy. I remember something about a crush washer and it being really tight. Mine wasn’t tight enough and I had all sorts of issues but once it was torqued up correctly everything was good. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BerlinettaBoy Posted July 18, 2023 Author Share Posted July 18, 2023 Did you do the job yourself or was it done a mechanics? I've done a fair few odd jobs on cars, and after a bit of youtubing it looks relatively simple. And now I've got a torque wrench I'm itching to put it to use.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Pounsett Posted July 18, 2023 Share Posted July 18, 2023 (edited) I should have said I have a Commodore axle (no torque tube) but I bet it’s a similar “fixing”. Yes I did it myself. Edited July 18, 2023 by Jonathan Pounsett I answered the question🙄 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manta hatch Posted July 18, 2023 Share Posted July 18, 2023 You can change the pinion seal without removing the nut take the torque tube of pry seal out pigs head and press new one in with big socket our tube etc preload has to be set with inch lb wrench 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted July 18, 2023 Share Posted July 18, 2023 the commodore axle has a flange so the nut has to be removed to get the flange off. seing as the setting is slightly different on a used bearing rather than a new bearing 'first torque up' then i cant see any issue with marking the nut / shaft with a pop ,then retightening to the same plus a 'fraction' more . but yes as mentioned on a manta std axle theres no need to remove anything .(other than the torque tube for access !) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BerlinettaBoy Posted July 18, 2023 Author Share Posted July 18, 2023 5 hours ago, Manta hatch said: You can change the pinion seal without removing the nut take the torque tube of pry seal out pigs head and press new one in with big socket our tube etc preload has to be set with inch lb wrench Ah right, that's good to know, I'll get it up on the axle stands in a couple of days and have a look. In all the videos I watched they were taking the nut off and then replacing seal. Must be a different system that Mantas used then. Ive put a couple pictures in of where the leak is coming from, that is a pinion seal leaking right? Not sure why it's put the picture upside down, it's the right way up on my phone 🤔 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted July 19, 2023 Share Posted July 19, 2023 Ref pic, you can edit your post, delete pic X it, then add again. On torques, or torquing or torque, always afraid of old bolts, should they be replaced, always cautious of snapping them. When you get going, it would be interesting to see photos of what you do. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ems Posted July 19, 2023 Share Posted July 19, 2023 As said above, you don't need to remove the nut to change the seal. If I remember correctly you need to release the handbrake cable from the threaded rod and the clips on the crossmember. Removing the exhaust makes the removal of the crossmember easier. Take off the propshaft followed by the bracket that holds the brake pie to the torque tube. Once you remove the crossmember/torque tube assembly you'll access to the seal. All can be done with rear on axle stands or ramps. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted July 19, 2023 Share Posted July 19, 2023 oh yes removing the exhaust makes it a hell of a lot easier as the crossmember is a tight fit above it . BUT it can be done without removing it ! worth trying first anyway. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BerlinettaBoy Posted July 19, 2023 Author Share Posted July 19, 2023 8 hours ago, Ems said: As said above, you don't need to remove the nut to change the seal. If I remember correctly you need to release the handbrake cable from the threaded rod and the clips on the crossmember. Removing the exhaust makes the removal of the crossmember easier. Take off the propshaft followed by the bracket that holds the brake pie to the torque tube. Once you remove the crossmember/torque tube assembly you'll access to the seal. All can be done with rear on axle stands or ramps. Funnily enough that's the other job I want to do, I've a got the sportex exhaust upgrade, so if that's the case I may as well try do both the jobs at the same time. 12 hours ago, ®evo03 said: Ref pic, you can edit your post, delete pic X it, then add again. On torques, or torquing or torque, always afraid of old bolts, should they be replaced, always cautious of snapping them. When you get going, it would be interesting to see photos of what you do. I did try that, tried editing and rotating but for some reason it wanted to display upside down. I will take some pics as I go, and if I complete the job without needing a tow to the mechanics I'll post them here! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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