Simonl Posted November 8, 2023 Share Posted November 8, 2023 Hi all new member, looking for a bit of advice and thoughts. I recently purchased a 1985 manta GTE, that had been siting in a dry barn since 2008. It was only 1 1/2 miles from my house and small world but my gf used to be friends with the owners sister. It’s gold 50k miles from new the guy I purchased it from had owned it twice. Anyway it’s stripped to a bare shell now, there is no rot lots of loose surface rust but nothing rotten at all. Was waxoyled from new seems to have done its job. However I have a question regarding the dreaded swan necks. They are solid to hit with a welding hammer no holes however just below the subframe mount on the n/s there seems to be a bit of a swelling in two places about 4 inches apart. I have had a camera inside the chassis leg and apart from a bit of flakeyness there’s seem to be solid. So what do you all think I don’t want to replace them if I don’t need to , any thoughts would be appreciated. I’m in Northamptonshire Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted November 8, 2023 Share Posted November 8, 2023 depends on how you are with a welder. these areas as you seem to know are rot prone and attract moisture and eventual rust due to the double skinned nature of them. if you are lucky enough to just have swelling thats affecting the outer skin then if it were me i would cut off the offending area of outer skin ,(even if its only a very small bit. it will only ever get worse !) remove as much rust as possible from the inner section if its still ok using the method of your choice and then after costing with weld thru primer graft in a new outer piece. i use galv but thats personal choice ,if you do make sure the welded edges are cleaned of galv first. these always end up a bigger job than you first think but better to catch it now than 5 years down the line. final painting / protection inner and outer is your choice but i would get something in there whilst its still good ! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simonl Posted November 8, 2023 Author Share Posted November 8, 2023 Thanks for that appreciate the advice, when they are new so you know is the inner chassis rail and the outer cover spot welded together? And does the swelling come from the rust building up between the two spotted panels Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisb Posted November 8, 2023 Share Posted November 8, 2023 46 minutes ago, Simonl said: Hi all new member, looking for a bit of advice and thoughts. I recently purchased a 1985 manta GTE, that had been siting in a dry barn since 2008. It was only 1 1/2 miles from my house and small world but my gf used to be friends with the owners sister. It’s gold 50k miles from new the guy I purchased it from had owned it twice. Anyway it’s stripped to a bare shell now, there is no rot lots of loose surface rust but nothing rotten at all. Was waxoyled from new seems to have done its job. However I have a question regarding the dreaded swan necks. They are solid to hit with a welding hammer no holes however just below the subframe mount on the n/s there seems to be a bit of a swelling in two places about 4 inches apart. I have had a camera inside the chassis leg and apart from a bit of flakeyness there’s seem to be solid. So what do you all think I don’t want to replace them if I don’t need to , any thoughts would be appreciated. I’m in Northamptonshire Its not the GTE Coupe that was in Towcester is it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simonl Posted November 8, 2023 Author Share Posted November 8, 2023 Hi yes it is 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisb Posted November 8, 2023 Share Posted November 8, 2023 looked a tidy car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted November 8, 2023 Share Posted November 8, 2023 If it’s got swelling, cutting sections of the outer skin out to get at the rust forming between the two parts will be a good start. You can then grind it off, clean up/protect it and then seem a repair plate into the outer section. Dress it/paint and it’s like new 😉 you WILL need to go further than you think, ideal is back until it’s no rust. There are various spot welds along the rail stitching them together btw. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted November 9, 2023 Share Posted November 9, 2023 When you get sorted, finish the job Opel should have. Plug the inlet holes, one below servo, other below battery clamp, corner of each chassis leg, it's a water channel into your chassis, this was to insure you bought a new Calibra, after ten years, or so they where hoping 😂 Not too bad considering, nice find, buy. Take it, there is no sunroof? Any pics? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simonl Posted November 9, 2023 Author Share Posted November 9, 2023 Thank for that info. I’ve bitten the bullet this morning and cut and peeled part of the outer chassis rail back as you did and after removing all the flaky rust pleased to find the inner chassis rail is solid 😀😀 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted November 9, 2023 Share Posted November 9, 2023 5 hours ago, Simonl said: Thank for that info. I’ve bitten the bullet this morning and cut and peeled part of the outer chassis rail back as you did and after removing all the flaky rust pleased to find the inner chassis rail is solid 😀😀 Good stuff, can recommend getting something sprayed down the legs too to cure any surface rust and also offer future protection. Something like Lanogaurd works good as very low viscous and gets into the seams/gaps. And second what eco said 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simonl Posted November 9, 2023 Author Share Posted November 9, 2023 Hi you read my mind lanoguard already purchased 👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted November 9, 2023 Share Posted November 9, 2023 47 minutes ago, Simonl said: Hi you read my mind lanoguard already purchased 👍 I used a modded garden pressure sprayer with a longer nylon (quite rigid) pipe. My mate got it for me from some HGV compressed air system, was 1/4” so I added a bung and created my own spray holes in last 1” length of the pipe with a 0.5mm drill bit (by hand) so it created a fan jet. Fairly easy to get something right, just stop as the bit is nicking through the last inner section of nylon. I probably used too much though as I put a 1/2 Gallon down each leg with 2 passes and most ended up in the floor on outside ramp 🫣 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simonl Posted November 9, 2023 Author Share Posted November 9, 2023 Hi you read my mind lanoguard already purchased 👍 Sound like a good plan thanks for the info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted November 9, 2023 Share Posted November 9, 2023 If you cut two inch lengths of garden hose, it blocks the drain holes in chassis. And allows you to keep product in place until you want to drain. You can also drill holes from above and plug. Bilthamber, has some great products. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simonl Posted November 9, 2023 Author Share Posted November 9, 2023 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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