Opeloutbacks Posted September 13 Share Posted September 13 Hey Simon, good effort. Sounds like you've made good progress. Is that a stainless exhaust I see fitted? You haven't said what the problem is with your fuel gauge. When I removed mine, I noticed the wire had weathered badly and was snapping easily. I replaced the wires up into the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted September 13 Share Posted September 13 Great progress 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted September 13 Share Posted September 13 remember the hatch tank sender has an earth wire on it rather than earthing through the metal like the saloon/ coupe. this is nearly always rusted off. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted September 14 Share Posted September 14 also HATCH RELATED if your interested . ford focus boot struts fit and work on the hatch tailgate perfectly. 600mm long and stronger which helps if you have the extra weight of wash wipe 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metalbasher Posted September 14 Share Posted September 14 That’s a good shout, thanks. Mine are 40 odd years old and struggling to keep it up, poor things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Dobbo Posted September 15 Author Share Posted September 15 So another day spent on the car using my mates ramp. fuel gauge out and back in - was quarter turn out of place. - still only worked intermittently so I cleaned up the earth connection and it now seems ok. ballanced up the wheels as have a vibration about 60mph - sadly it’s still there so will need to take more detailed look. then I managed to get a short 15 mile drive done with no issues 😀😀 She is now at my place on the newly painted floor This was what’s left of coolant T Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Does anyone have experience adjusting the timing? I did it yesterday using the small pointer and the only notch in the pulley. assume it wants to be about 10 degrees before TDC? was out a bit and car pulls away better now. but do I need to set differently for unleaded fuel etc? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Dobbo Posted September 15 Author Share Posted September 15 On 13/09/2024 at 20:00, Opeloutbacks said: Hey Simon, good effort. Sounds like you've made good progress. Is that a stainless exhaust I see fitted? You haven't said what the problem is with your fuel gauge. When I removed mine, I noticed the wire had weathered badly and was snapping easily. I replaced the wires up into the car. Hi fuel sender was in wrong position and also had a bad connection. The exhaust is stainless I believe - was on when I ought the car rom previous owner. i assume the old one fell to bits as was parked for over 30 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted September 15 Share Posted September 15 Seems like you’re making good progress 🙌 Ideally only run the 5% high octane rating fuel, Tesco/shell etc 97-99RON . Then the original advance will be good, you might be able to get it a little more too, I run my 1,8 at 14degrees with zero knock (luckily the garage had loads of equipment & we have a knock tool that uses a Bosch type bolt on to block detector, pretty snazzy for around 300 quid). Remember, the carb will be lean for E10+ fuel, along with all the issues that methanol brings to old rubber parts (hoses, pump diaphragm, gaskets etc). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Dobbo Posted September 15 Author Share Posted September 15 24 minutes ago, Jessopia74 said: Seems like you’re making good progress 🙌 Ideally only run the 5% high octane rating fuel, Tesco/shell etc 97-99RON . Then the original advance will be good, you might be able to get it a little more too, I run my 1,8 at 14degrees with zero knock (luckily the garage had loads of equipment & we have a knock tool that uses a Bosch type bolt on to block detector, pretty snazzy for around 300 quid). Remember, the carb will be lean for E10+ fuel, along with all the issues that methanol brings to old rubber parts (hoses, pump diaphragm, gaskets etc). Thanks im definitely only going to run on E5 premium. is the marker and notch at TDC or at 10 degrees before? I used mates strobe that you can adjust and do it to 7 degrees- but if mark is at 10 degrees then does it mean I’ve ended up at 7 degrees. getting confused - runs well and pulls away better than before as was definitely out but I don’t want to go too far and do any damage. Possibly a tiny amount of pinking under load once while I was driving so probably needs further adjustment before then trying to set the Webber carb up better. Or have I ended up at 17 degrees Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted September 15 Share Posted September 15 the mark is at 10 dev and will only be a base setting . if using the 99 ron you can sometimes go further but every engine is different . you need to experiment a lot . timing can be played with as can the vacuum advance if needs be . if you are flat out and no pinking but pinking evident at part throttle( when the vac advance kicks in)you may need to limit the amount of vac advance . i did mine by drilling and tapping the vac can and limiting movement with an adjustment screw . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted September 15 Share Posted September 15 9 minutes ago, cam.in.head said: the mark is at 10 dev and will only be a base setting . if using the 99 ron you can sometimes go further but every engine is different . you need to experiment a lot . timing can be played with as can the vacuum advance if needs be . if you are flat out and no pinking but pinking evident at part throttle( when the vac advance kicks in)you may need to limit the amount of vac advance . i did mine by drilling and tapping the vac can and limiting movement with an adjustment screw . Quite like the idea of that adjustment. We used to -I’ll the vac advance completely and mess with the bob weights/springs, but ofc this is mostly with twin carb setups where vacuum was an issue anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted September 15 Share Posted September 15 when i set my 2.2 i ended up with a little over 12 deg advance and half of the vac can movement . on my 2.0 with variate it took around 10 deg instead of 5 but only a small amount of vac ( maybe a quarter of available) this was all using esso synergy 99 and a 32 thou plug gap . every engine is slightly different depending on mileage/ condition etc 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted September 16 Share Posted September 16 8 hours ago, cam.in.head said: when i set my 2.2 i ended up with a little over 12 deg advance and half of the vac can movement . on my 2.0 with variate it took around 10 deg instead of 5 but only a small amount of vac ( maybe a quarter of available) this was all using esso synergy 99 and a 32 thou plug gap . every engine is slightly different depending on mileage/ condition etc Indeed, the CIH was always extremely conservative with factory advance, probably due to availability of 3STAR petrol lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Dobbo Posted September 16 Author Share Posted September 16 Thanks all - might get myself a strobe rather than needing to borrow my mates - then i can have a play around as its not hard to do 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted September 16 Share Posted September 16 to be honest a strobe will only be good for setting up a new build or basic checking . as mentioned current fuels and our engines require experimentation rather than definite settings . theoretically ( assuming everything else is in good order and the engines not overly carboned up ) you would just advance until you detect any pinking and then drop it back again until all is well . with mine i set it till no pinking with the vac unplugged and sealed then added the vac and the screw and adjusted that the same way . strangely my 2.0 carb runs slightly smoother with no vac connected at all but i have it on around a quarter also bearing in mind that some engines ( not nesesarliy a worn out one !) can breath oil vapour back in especially the 2.2 when on a long constant run when the oil gets hot and this can make a lot of pinking noises . retarding the timing here would be pointless. i've noticed this on both my 2.2's and never on my 2.0 carb. main difference there being the breather system design . the 2.0 uses a larger bore main breather and also an extra thin pipe bleed into the inlet too . whereas the 2.2 only has a 10mm single straight into the inlet ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Dobbo Posted September 24 Author Share Posted September 24 Another few hours spent on her. Timing adjusted again and pinking gone now - seems to be driving great. sadly I found a dent in the bonnet - believe it’s caused by the bolt holding the air filter housing to the carb kicking up when engine rocks. absolutely gutted by it. My mate has knocked it out best he can for now. 😡 Another 10 miles driven. next Saturday is fitting the passenger mirror from MrCarlos then Monday is in with my friend to drop gearbox and do rear main seal plus front gearbox seal and the clutch. then she is booked into a rolling road tuner to ensure the carb is set optimally. hopefully after all of that we will get some dry weekends to do some miles and shakedown 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted September 24 Share Posted September 24 Wow that sucks about the bolt, is the mountings gone a bit weak? Perhaps escort or Landrover mounts to drop engine a tiny bit. Can’t recall exact height of the original ones, but dropping whole engine by 10mm or so won’t hurt 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Dobbo Posted September 24 Author Share Posted September 24 I have cut bolt down but do want new mounts as they seem ok but a lot of give in them maybe try Mr Carlos and see if has any was so annoyed 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Dobbo Posted September 25 Author Share Posted September 25 2 x engine mounts and a viscous fan on the way from MrCarlos Once again he has what i need and helps me out. 😀 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Dobbo Posted September 30 Author Share Posted September 30 Managed to get out for a 45 mile run on Sunday With a stop for a few hours at Thoresby Hall car show in the middle. 19 different Capri's there alongside 100's of other cars. But only 1 Manta!! I must get my club sticker and tax disc holder in the car. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted September 30 Share Posted September 30 Capri are 2 a penny 🤣 At least you was there in the better car 😎😁 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Opeloutbacks Posted September 30 Share Posted September 30 Nice! Looking good and hard work paid off, well done 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1900SR Posted October 1 Share Posted October 1 (edited) Mansfield Capri Club always have a strong presence at shows all around the East Midlands, a good number of members who are willing to travel and do shows. I've found that Opels and Vauxhalls are always rare at shows. It's a shame there aren't more Mantas left, it would be good to see a few more at shows, although it does mean you possibly get more interest in your car if you are the only one there. When I was an area rep it got to the point where we were only getting a couple of cars for a club stand (and on one occasion I owned both of them) so it stopped being worthwhile. I've been to Thoresby in the past and it's a good sized show, but I've decided I won't pay to display these days so it's off my list. The attached photo is Thoresby in 2008 when we managed a 4 car club display. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Edited October 1 by 1900SR typos 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Dobbo Posted October 1 Author Share Posted October 1 8 minutes ago, 1900SR said: Mansfield Capri Club always have a strong presence at shows all around the East Midlands, a good number of members who are willing to travel and do shows. I've found that Opels and Vauxhalls are always rare at shows. It's a shame there aren't more Mantas left, it would be good to see a few more at shows, although it does mean you possibly get more interest in your car if you are the only ine there. When I was an area rep it got to the point where we were only getting a couple of cars for a club stand (and on one occasion I owned both of them) so it stopped being worthwhile. I've been to Thoresby in the past and it's a good sized show, but I've decided I won't pay to display these days so it's off my list. The attached photo is Thoresby in 2008 whe we managed a 4 car club display. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. I know what you mean I go there as I only live about 15 miles or so away so its easy and a good sized show. More for a day out than to show - ticket this year was £8.10 for the car and 2 adults - but if you go with no car and pay on the gate for a day out its about £12.50 each 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Dobbo Posted October 1 Author Share Posted October 1 Hi My front shock's have started leaking oil. Can anyone point me in direction to get some new ones please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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