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The "BILLING" Project


andyc
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Well with Billing deadline now out of the window and a new date in mind progress has been made on the metal work.

Nick managed to obtain a N.O.S lower B pillar panel which was a great help, saved fabing one. Now with the pillar straight we have moved onto the o/s/r arches and 1/4 panel

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Next week we are hoping to have the arches done and the 1/4 panel on

cheers

Andy

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Am I wrong or are you now exposing rust that the stripping process missed (looking at the last picture). That might be somewhat disappointing.

Cheers,

Joe.

Please log into this site from the Home page folks. It helps to keep it as the first Manta site listed on Google.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I was seriously thinking about getting my shell stripped and dipped with this company till I emailed for a price.

Our costs to process your Opel Manta would be as follows:

To chemically clean the bodyshell

£675.00 + VAT

We can also offer a priming service as follows:

To zinc phosphate and electrophoretic coat (immersion primer) – Recommended

£750.00 + VAT

Or alternatively

To oven bake and etch prime shell

£350.00 + VATid="blue">

I personally wouldn't have done it the way you have by getting the car stripped right from the start but you could always find a price to take the car back and have it re dipped in immersion primer once finished.

Dan

4f8.jpg

Member: 5612

http://www.mantaclub.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6321

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Sorry Dan i might of read that wrong but from what your saying is that you would take the shell to Brum, they are the only place in europe that can take a shell, have it stripped, take it back in bear metal which will already have started to rust agin. Then do all the metal work which could take a few months. Then take it back again to Brum, have it re-dipped to get all the new rust off them have it primed. Sorry that doesn't stack up.

With any body restoration work you have got to start with clean metal otherwise you just end up chacing the rust. I can see what your saying in that its a shame to have the shell primed then start cutting aload of panels out, but that how it goes. Until the shell is stripped you can never say what it's like underneath the paint.

Anything can be made to good great with body filler and underseal.

The main reason we / Nick went for the dip instead of blasting is that the dip gets into all the box sections. It would be a shame to go to all that work of re-building a shell only to find the chassis legs have gone through in a couple of years.

Yes the process is alot of cash but i have yet to meet anyone who restores a car who is sane!!!

Cheers

Andy

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What I meant by saying I wouldn't have had it dipped at the start is that I would carry out the obvious major repair jobs such as the chassis rail before having it dipped as then the new pannels would be stripped and dipped giving them optimum protection.

Now when you weld up some pannels the paint will burn off inside the rails leaving small spots free of rust prevention.

My suggestion for having it re dipped in primer when finished was meaning if money was no object then that is what I would do. Unfortunately I can't really afford to have my shell dipped before during or after the restoration

Dan

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Member: 5612

http://www.mantaclub.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6321

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ok i'm with you on that. What we done was to take the spare panels we knew we were going to need with us and had them stripped and primed at the same time.

I can see what your saying about the primer burning off but what we use is heavy weld through zinc rich primer, as they use in our bodyshop at work so the should hold most things back.

I think that what ever way you go there will always be a place where rust will reappear

Andy

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  • 1 month later...

well time for an update and whats been happening. Well with the run up to Billing and other commitments things have been a tad slow with only a few hours work being put in.

Well since we were last hear the 1/4 panel is now on after a bit of fettling, taking a cutting disc to a new OE panel can be a bit nerve wrecking. I ended up having to cut the lenght of the door shut line to get thinh€gs to fit.

Nick managed to pick up a new nose cone and uprate cylinder head which we collected at Billing and while Nick was over he spent some time trial fitting all the A/C parts so i've got an idea on where they all go.

The engine has also been collected from Damaco Engineering. Its been re-bored, new pistons, block skimmed, head skimmed, unleaded head conversion with new valves and seats, crank has been polished and all bottom end parts have be balanced.

One point to note is the head is, i think, now surplus to requirements so if anyones interested then contact Nick direct.

At the moment we are working on the o/s inner sill / floor pan section which has already been badly repaired. Once we have all the replace then we can get the sill panel on and finaly button up the o/s of the car.

Well now for some pics

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w245 ... nel001.jpg

marking out for the 1/4 panel cut

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w245 ... nel002.jpg

door shut before

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w245 ... nel007.jpg

1/4 panel cut and re welded

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w245 ... nel009.jpg

1/4 re weld cleaned up

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w245 ... nta003.jpg

"C" Pillar marked out for cutting

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w245 ... nta004.jpg

panel section cut out

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w245 ... nta005.jpg

replacement section fitted

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w245 ... nta002.jpg

A/C heater box fitted

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w245 ... nta007.jpg

condenser fitted

well thats it for now and hopefully we will back up to speed in the next couple of weeks

Andy

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Andy,

the 2.4 engine now it has had all this work done on it, what are you expecting the BHP to be. Is the Frontera engine a straight swap for the 2.0l cih, what components do you need from the fronteria to make it all work.

Where is Damaco Engineering and how much did all the work cost.

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2.4 Engine is just drop in but you will need a Carlton 2.2 inlet manifold, loom and ECU........ the egnine i've mentioned in my piece above is a 2.0 CIH

Damaco are based in Larling,Norfolk, about ten mins up the A11 from Thetford so its nice and close for us.

With all the machine work, cleaning and parts the engine cost just under £700.00. But remember thats four pistons and diffenent exhaust valves for unleaded fuel

Damaco's number is 01953 717784 ask for Darren

Cheers

Andy

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Hi Andy

Why did you have to cut that 1/4 panel?

I've got a new one to put on the same side on my Manta cosworth project and i hope i don't have to start chopping it up. Was it because of the damage to the b post?

Kev

kevinmanconaatbilling-1.jpg

Many A Night Tinkering About

OMOC 4076

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It had alot to do with the pillar althought everything is straight!!!!. All i can say is make sure you have lots of mole grip and clamp the panel on and spend alot of time making sure every seam and joint is correct before welding, dont think that just because its a new panel it will just drop in place.

Cheers

Andy

PS. cutting a new OE 1/4 panel is a bit of a brown trouser moment!![:0]

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We had a look at Jo's Exclusive and the top of the door is closer to the rear 1/4 panel than the bottom of the door. It's the same on quite a few Mantas I've seen. The project car is going to get a consistent gap all the way down the door now that Andy has adjusted the panel, so it's going to be better than original...

I'm not saying some fettling wasn't required, it's just that we could have probably done less if he hadn't noticed and decided it had to be fixed. I have absolutely no problem with perfectionists!

Cheers,

N.

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"it's going to be better than original"

Does that mean you'll be entering it in the 'Better Than Original' class at Billing next year Nick...?[8D]

Cheers,

Joe.

Please log into this site from the Home page folks. It helps to keep it as the first Manta site listed on Google.

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Don't get me started about those bloody classes, I'm in modified and that appears to be that! Still, I'm determined to give Jock a run for his money. [:D]

Mantadoc, I find it's better not to even think about how much more it would cost than to just throw it all away and buy another car. I've still got Jo convinced it's more cost effective running an older car than a new one (Jo rolls on the floor laughing from the couch next to me...)

Cheers,

Nick

365717524a22a4e3472d161f99f2425c850d601ceb2c00473e4957e5.jpg13444240b61ff510a5006320064f28e39a974b34fcfd4300c8b8b277.jpg10570399d4d7b1ca5f3a32e7c21c523417aa2e2157222839b1dad8d9.jpg508741114e7f661505f6cc62779adc6f8eb279b5f22c90b5f9f456a8.jpg04804985bab71707dfb6d5796c42af077eb3cd5632f116f3f4af4d15.jpg191644573c12d6801ac43c141e3dd3732c1bba9c4945e7c440b3f8e3.jpg3177542315997df7848a1c28d07cb64fbc668265589465766e471d06.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

ok just a quick update on progress so far. Finally got the o/s floor, inner sill and outer sill on with just the underside of the sill to weld into place, this will be done when we turn the shell to do the chassis leg.

So onto the next section,the front end. Nick picked up an nose cone which we collected at billing so now we are making sure the nose is in the correct place relative to the wings and bonnet. Also on the list is the re-placemet of the re-placement of the n/s inner wing as the first had a kink in it which wasn't noticable untill it was fitted and the replacement of the battery try. Thankfully we have a bit of flex with the battery try as the A/C box will hide most of it.

Time wise we are hopfully looking at the begining of 08 to have the car into paint then i can start doing a bit on my other two projects

More later, Andy

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