Mototechnics Posted October 1, 2012 Author Share Posted October 1, 2012 (edited) 4 yes FOUR darn diddly, darn diddly hours to get the doors off!!! and this is what it took to do it, plus a few wacks on my fingers. The 'drift' is made of two allen bolts and was used to start the pins moving. The 6mm Allen Key was used to knock them all the way out. Edited October 1, 2012 by Mototechnics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Abbott Posted October 1, 2012 Share Posted October 1, 2012 It's a bit late now but it will help with putting them back on, you know there's a proper door removal tool available for about £15? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiney_norman Posted October 1, 2012 Share Posted October 1, 2012 I've broken two of the Sykes Pickavant tools. Last time I tried I spent 3 hours on one pin, managed to mangle my hand from holding the bar but the pin didn't move. Saying that, I've had some pins come out in seconds with the same tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Abbott Posted October 1, 2012 Share Posted October 1, 2012 I did a how to on door removal, should be in the archive on the site somewhere? Remember chaps. Top one down. Bottom one up. :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiney_norman Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 Exactly how I did them Kev! Or attempted them, as the case may be. Some of them are just tight, even after lashings of WD40 and being beaten senseless with a big hammer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mototechnics Posted October 2, 2012 Author Share Posted October 2, 2012 Kevin - I saw something about an Opel Tool Part Number on here somewhere. Would be goo to have more details if you have them. However, my motto is "don't force it, get a bigger hammer" Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Abbott Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 It's just a Sykes pickavant door removal tool. Cost less than 20quid. To remove doors easy I'll do a quick sum up This is with wings on, it's even easier with them off Remove door check strap pin Remove door pin plastic bungs Insert removal pin up into top door roll pin, screw end on. Place door removal tool bar into place. Then this is the most important bit, you use a long bolster chisel that you place as close as possible in the door bar so when you hit it the force is transferred straight down along the angle of the pin. Then just tap the roll pin out. Bottom one. Insert removal pin into the top of the lower pin and screw the top on. Add the removal bar and place a smaller chisel to direct the force up directly following the angle of the roll pin. As we dont have 3 hands it's a 2 person job but it can be done with the correct tool in your own in about 20 mins. Any typos? Blame my chugging iPhone. Stupid thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mototechnics Posted October 3, 2012 Author Share Posted October 3, 2012 Sounds good but making your own drift and beating the sh1t out of it and your fingers is so much more entertaining Windows, rear axle and front suspension/steering assembly next. Look out fingers and thumbs! Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve price Posted October 7, 2012 Share Posted October 7, 2012 i remember you buying this coupe,going to watch this thread as im curious as to the actual amount of work and commitment,best of luck and plz host as many pics as you can, good luck m8 oh,try peter evans on this forum,i think he has had v8 before,and is doing one now i think all the best steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mototechnics Posted October 7, 2012 Author Share Posted October 7, 2012 (edited) Hi Steve Hope you don't mind a long project. Work, life etc sometimes gets in the way. Going to get the front and rear screens out next. Front one has a crack in it so no need to be gentle. Rear glass is good so lots of care there. Then it's on to rear axle and fron suspension/steering. All sounds easy when you write it down. Mark Edited October 9, 2012 by Mototechnics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retro Power Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 You'll want to start on the lookout for a roof as well, that's definitely going to need a roofskin. Drew turner (Drew on here) often has one in stock. I have one (actually his really!) but its a bit dented, would do at a push though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mototechnics Posted January 19, 2013 Author Share Posted January 19, 2013 (edited) Sorry its been a while since an update and sorry no new pictures at present (not got a camera that takes decent pictures indoors). Mary is mostly stripped now except for the front suspension/steering assembly. The two bolts through the chasis members are being real buggers to get out. They seem stuck tight and no amout for spray or heating seems to make a difference...any advice? Started stripping the door ready for blasting and repairing. The passenger door certainly is going to need some TLC Also I've finally got that crappy black stuff off the floor of the interior. Will post new pictures as soon as I can. Mark Edited January 21, 2013 by Mototechnics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retro Power Posted January 19, 2013 Share Posted January 19, 2013 those chassis bolts - if a sledgehammer won't shift em them we usually cut through em with the grinder, very carefully, between the outrigger and the chassis rail. Can sometimes then shift the bit out of the chassis rail, and the bit in the bush will go with the bush when you push it out to fit a new (polyurethane!) one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retro Power Posted January 19, 2013 Share Posted January 19, 2013 PS I would echo 399road's comments, and go on to say that if you are sticking with that 'shell, I'd definitely get it blasted once its stripped down, as it will still be hiding a lot of rot even once the obvious stuff is uncovered. We've blasted a lot of these now, and even ones that look almost perfect end up very colander-esque!! If you do it to start with, you know exactly what you have ahead of you As I said, you'll need a roof too, so better to track one down sooner than later Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mototechnics Posted January 20, 2013 Author Share Posted January 20, 2013 Hi Retro Power I nearly knocked the shell off the axle stands when I was hitting the bolts as hard as I could using the biggest lump hammer I could find. I thought perhaps that my next move was to cut through them between the chassis member and the sub-frame. I've already mentioned previously in this thread at least twice about blasting the car. Simon P put me on to a local blasting company so it is, and always was, on the cards in the near future. For me it is not about how easy or hard it is, nor whether it's worth it. Although cost is an issue, it's more about availability of funds. I see it as a personal challenge/goal to restore this car as best I can. After having several Mantas in the 80' and 90's whist I was in the RAF, I want to keep at least one alive using my 35 years of engineering experience for my own pleasure. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retro Power Posted January 21, 2013 Share Posted January 21, 2013 Great stuff! As long as you're approaching it from that angle you won't go far wrong! It's got to be a labour of love sort of thing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mototechnics Posted May 18, 2013 Author Share Posted May 18, 2013 (edited) After an epic battle lasting many days/hours I have finally managed to remove the front subframe. It has taken fire, chemicals, brute force and cunning to overcome but at last I have a bare engine bay. I've saved up enough now to buy a rollover spit so once I've got that the scraping of the cars belly begins. During the strip I found a nut in a condition I could not believe. How it stayed together on the road I will never know (yes it has been cut through with a hacksaw). Honest this is how I found it on the car!!!! Edited May 18, 2013 by Mototechnics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon p Posted May 19, 2013 Share Posted May 19, 2013 Good to see it coming on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mototechnics Posted June 1, 2013 Author Share Posted June 1, 2013 Having got the front subframe apart and the roll over spit not yet arrived so I can't get on with preping the shell for blasting I thought I'd start some modifications ready for the Rover V8 fit. Having looked at the Manta that the engie I have came from a bit of the front cross member needs to be removed to allow the sump to fit so.... before after Now has anyone got any tips or ideas on replacing the bump stop cones as they are a little poorly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mototechnics Posted September 7, 2013 Author Share Posted September 7, 2013 Not been able to do much for well over a month as I had to move the car out of the garage where I work on it for 5 weeks. Anyway now after literally hours of 'fettling', modifying and adapting, I've finally got the rollover spit to fit and work. Now to tackle to belly. Going to get as much underseal off as possible, remove the bushes from the rear axle tie bar. The it's off to the blasters (finances allowing). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulsV8 Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 How's it going? Doing a similar build myself, engine mostly (90%) built over the winter months working on the body now. As your ahead of me in the build have you worked out the engine mounts yet? Looking at this now and scratching my head! ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulmanta Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 Re: Bumpstop cones : http://forums.mantaclub.org/topic/35362-cavalier-mk1-lowering-springs/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rutthenut Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 How's it going? Doing a similar build myself, engine mostly (90%) built over the winter months working on the body now. As your ahead of me in the build have you worked out the engine mounts yet? Looking at this now and scratching my head! I could try and get some photos of the mounts on my car, which may help a little. I say that, but it's not as if there is much to see down there with the cross member, manifolds and all, so may struggle with the camera. Will see if I can remember to nose around underneath some time soon to get a shot or two of the setup used. What I can say is that it isn't pretty under there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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