Hydraulic tappet adjustment oily mess.

[hoobby]

Just adjusted the tappets worked well with the botched up cover when cold once warmed up oil started flicking off the rocker arms and I now have a shiny engine bay and driveway.

Yes I have made a pigs ear out of the cover originally just cut the end off to make a chain guard (Haynes) when I had a 2.0s it was a utter disaster but not much oil loss to speak of after I stuck it back together

Better oil pressure? Cam profile? Or just a pigs ear cover?.

 

[Jessopia74]

Probably cut open more then necessary, mine had a slot just wide enough for the deep socket to go through comfortably

 

[IanMc]

6 minutes ago, Jessopia74 said:

Probably cut open more then necessary, mine had a slot just wide enough for the deep socket to go through comfortably

 

That was my first thought too. You could easily enclose it a bit more again with some sheet steel and self tappers. Even cardboard to be honest.

When I set mine I used cam.in.head’s cold set method - they are still beautifully quiet.

Edited July 5, 2020 by IanMc

[hoobby]

It just worked so well before but yes going to make that hole a lot smaller

Cold set method ?.

[H-400]

My son made this for me, had the same problem as you so I tolled him to make the opening smaller:

I used some tape to close the gap in the middle, I still used some rags to keep the engine bay clean but it was not necessary:

 

[Jessopia74]

That is the one Herman.

[IanMc]

10 hours ago, hoobby said:

Cold set method ?.

 

Yes mate. 

This is what Chris (cam.in.head) sent to me ages ago:

 

"They are set so that when the tappet is fully open you adjust as accurately as you can all the slack in the rocker arm out of it and then one full turn to the adjustment nut. The tappet then looks after itself.

I turn the engine with a spanner or socket (clockwise only) until valve number 2 is fully open (tappet fully lifted).

Then making sure that the tappet is fully expanded, I adjust the arm down until all the slack JUST disappears and the rocker arm goes tight. Turn the nut ONE turn down and wait until the tappet adjusts itself into its body and the arm goes slightly slack again on its own. If it doesn't adjust itself down onto its body after a reasonable time (5-10 mins or so), then it is seized and never going to work.

If the tappet adjusts itself down, all is well and you can move on to the others. Adjust each one down as a pair i.e. Open valve 2, adjust number 1 - Open valve 1, adjust number 2 etc"

 

It worked very nicely for me - no mess and everything is very quiet.

I hope that helps.

 

[cam.in.head]

yes thats my method.always worked for me .saves any mess of oil splatter etc.the actual measured clearence difference between a cold and hot engine is so minimal that one turn down afterwards is not 100% important anyway.even if you went to one and a half ( think mine are around one and a quarter)but one turn is the official amount.

idea is if you work on one at a time and wait then theres no chance of any valve damage or burning seats .