Jump to content

Fitting Additional Temperature Gauge


Jonathan Pounsett
 Share

Recommended Posts

The Manta gauge always seems to run hot, never in the red but always nudging it, so I’m fitting an additional gauge that shows the exact temperature.  I thought I could simply splice the gauge wire sending one wire to each gauge. It doesn’t work! The Manta gauge appears to work as normal and when I disconnect it the new gauge springs to life. 
 

What do I need to do to make both gauges work at the same time off the same wire?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you replaced the voltage regulator behind the dash yet? They are the most unreliable part on a manta, I know folk to have boxes full of them, all burnt out. You can get replacement on eBay. I had this issue with my 1.8, would always run red hot, I fitted extra fans and new viscous, but still ran hot. Replaced the regulator over 10 years ago and never looked back. 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285235278029?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=SpBAFWooRDC&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=oSyz5_rPQeO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Sutty2006 said:

Have you replaced the voltage regulator behind the dash yet? They are the most unreliable part on a manta, I know folk to have boxes full of them, all burnt out. You can get replacement on eBay. I had this issue with my 1.8, would always run red hot, I fitted extra fans and new viscous, but still ran hot. Replaced the regulator over 10 years ago and never looked back. 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285235278029?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=SpBAFWooRDC&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=oSyz5_rPQeO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Is this the same thing?

 

IMG_1526.thumb.jpeg.ee710127afc57aeef76cef19d13bd776.jpeg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, Jonathan Pounsett said:

The Manta gauge always seems to run hot, never in the red but always nudging it, so I’m fitting an additional gauge that shows the exact temperature.  I thought I could simply splice the gauge wire sending one wire to each gauge. It doesn’t work! The Manta gauge appears to work as normal and when I disconnect it the new gauge springs to life. 
 

What do I need to do to make both gauges work at the same time off the same wire?

Is it getting enough power on the circuit to run both gauges at the same time?

I have no idea about car electrics, but I am part P, and sounds like it could be a lack of ampage issue. I may well be completely wrong though 😅

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

35 minutes ago, ®evo03 said:

Just to add this voltage reg is push in, three spades if I remember correctly. 

They are old school turn of the century tech, springs widgets and gadgets inside, no hamster though! 

Correct! The old ones are a winding round a metal doohicky that burns out. The new ones a made of magic crystals and electrodes that only come from space. Brilliant technology and is wholly reliable. 

  • Like 2
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I changed the regulator and now my new gauge “bounces” so I have ordered the new part as recommended by @Sutty2006.
 

I don’t think I can do what I’m trying because I believe the gauge is reading the voltage or resistance and adding another gauge to the same wire messes that up. I think I need to run a new separate wire 🤷‍♂️ or insert a switch to toggle between gauges.

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

you are correct.  the existing guage has  a simulated 10v applied to it and this then goes to earth via the temp sensor which is a thermistor. it gives a given variable resistance at a given variable temperature so if you tryto run another guage from the thesame wire it will mess up the resistance and neither guage will work accuraetly.

BUT 

as mentioned earlier ,its 99% of the time the voltage regulator that fails.and causes the guage to overread ( along with the fuel guage too ). replace it and all should be well. ( its a fiddly job !)

a basic way to check if yours has failed. turn the radio on and tune into dead air between stations on AM.then turn on the ignition. all should be quiet for a 10 - 15 seconds and then you should hear the regulator opening and closing its contacts with a series of clicks !

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know the voltage stabiliser linked above is relatively cheap. But if your handy with a soldering iron and like to be hands on you can always put your own together. 


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/145079442234?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ZdL3MOOSQ92&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=6uKliTfERMK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

Three pins 12.5-30 volts in, ground in the middle and 10v out. 
I did one before for a triumph spitfire 

21072010051.thumb.jpeg.e27e7177f7571ab3ea8519735c73f139.jpeg
21072010055.thumb.jpeg.8d85d55e1c41c29d0f2595d17ad7500f.jpeg
 

IMG_0096.thumb.jpeg.f4d3311f2993f616e19b8c7cb49e2801.jpeg

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My first thought was “what’s the point?” It seems a really cheap part - then I opened the link…..

£3.49 and some odd bits of wire and 3 connectors that we all have lying around.

Too late but thanks anyway and hopefully of use to others. 👍

3 hours ago, Jessopia74 said:

That’s really great Mick, cheap as you like and as you say not hard. Only thing I would add a small cap in that, say 0.1µF 

I put “0.1µF” into my Enigma machine but it didn’t return any results 🤷‍♂️

Why do you think a capacitor is required, what does it add?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i built one for mine using a carlton /senator unit. this was a tca700y which was the std fitted unit from the 83 carltons onwards within the revised dash. using a 10ohm line resistor as fitted .

datasheets seem to suggest it works from 12v whereas the 7810 appears to be 12.5 volt minimum ? 

pin configuration is opposite but works well.

plus as usual you get the satissfaction that YOU have built it !

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, Sutty2006 said:

There’s waaaaay too many digital futuristic mathematical equations going on in here to justify saving a fiver 🤣🤣

 

19 hours ago, cam.in.head said:

i built one for mine using a carlton /senator unit. this was a tca700y which was the std fitted unit from the 83 carltons onwards within the revised dash. using a 10ohm line resistor as fitted .

datasheets seem to suggest it works from 12v whereas the 7810 appears to be 12.5 volt minimum ? 

pin configuration is opposite but works well.

plus as usual you get the satissfaction that YOU have built it !

Too late to make one now anyway - mines arrived. I can’t see a capacitor on it;

IMG_1208.thumb.jpeg.4e56e2123d879ae73b1775d0cc6edb27.jpeg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...