stumpy Posted October 21 Author Share Posted October 21 I do need to space the rails out by 10 mm per side if going to the mounting bolt the rails flair outwards slightly past the bulkhead it's not a problem ide weld a 10 mm steel disc I can get Laser cut at work to the rear leg mounting hole on the rail. Or alternatively. Offset the hole in the box section 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted October 21 Share Posted October 21 26 minutes ago, stumpy said: I do need to space the rails out by 10 mm per side if going to the mounting bolt the rails flair outwards slightly past the bulkhead it's not a problem ide weld a 10 mm steel disc I can get Laser cut at work to the rear leg mounting hole on the rail. Or alternatively. Offset the hole in the box section Yeah, and don’t forget the crush tube so that will likely cover it. Can you not get any of the box bent though ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stumpy Posted October 24 Author Share Posted October 24 Haven’t had much time last two days but managed geta bit more done Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stumpy Posted October 25 Author Share Posted October 25 (edited) Well one rail in ,,,,,,,the elongated hole was a deliberate mistake ahem,,,,,, Not really I had to cut that front section off and reweld it due to making the rail on the workshop floor. Wich isn't level and the tendency of box section to pull or twist..wich it did. Took four attempts to get them right ....i didnt allow for the. Cut thickness and dressing up .so the hole was out of line it's fine tho will put in a large diameter steel crush tube spacer 25mm o/d with a 10mm hole in centre and weld it up will add a bit of strength too Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. The inner wing is very close to touching the box section along the cut line really won't be a problem making this look good I can either weld direct to the box section or put a top plate as per original which will sit on top of the box along it's length and fold it up so there's a lip to meet the inner wing Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Front and rear suspension steering all on the same chassis rails front to rear no gaps as per original should make for more direct better handling and less flex ..I would think ? Making this shit up as I goProject images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Edited October 25 by stumpy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stumpy Posted October 25 Author Share Posted October 25 (edited) Forgot to say inner wings and remaining original rails were braced up and legs to the floor to stop any sagging of the front while I fab old to new........... Should really title this frankenmanta Edited October 26 by stumpy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted October 26 Share Posted October 26 Good progress mate, 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stumpy Posted October 29 Author Share Posted October 29 Both sides in crush tubes sorted box section clamped to the rails and tec screwed to the inner chill lip to level up both sides doors close as they should ...outriggers next which will be made from 70x30X5 angle iron welded together down the centre so 140 mm wide to give a good flat area to be able to put a trolley jack Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Pics Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted October 29 Share Posted October 29 That’s a lot of panels chopped out lol. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stumpy Posted October 29 Author Share Posted October 29 (edited) Yes but all rotten so I don't feel bad. I have a welder and a metal folder so will put it all back in lol Edited October 29 by stumpy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted October 29 Share Posted October 29 1 hour ago, stumpy said: Yes but all rotten so I don't feel bad. I have a welder and a metal folder so will put it all back in lol I was just thinking how brave you are mate 🙌. Then I remembered my Black coupe needs doing at some point in the future 🤣 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stumpy Posted November 2 Author Share Posted November 2 (edited) Been a bit slow the last few days as had other bits to do on other vehicles so got an hour tonight knocked up these jacking points they look absolute huge but they’re not 150 mm wide x285 mm long the head of my trolley Jack is 90 mm so gives a bit of leeway hope fully tomorrow all of them will be in the rears will be a different type to the fronts .....also spaced the chassis rails out by 15 mm each side at the front subframe rear legs so they run straight the centre of front top mount bolts is 750 mm Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. The lip overhang is 35mm which is perfect as it's going to have a 80x40 box section running along the inside of the cull cavity it will sit completely flat on the outrigger and completely flat against the inner Cill panel I've already got in place. It will be fully welded at its bottom to the outrigger and plug welded to the inner Cill crazy strong. At the expense of a bit of weight. In reality the box section and the outriggers weigh about 8lb Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Edited November 2 by stumpy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted November 2 Share Posted November 2 (edited) Credit to you, thats some work, crazy amount, hard to believe the tunnel was rotting. Are you getting it galvanised dipped 😉 Edited November 2 by ®evo03 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stumpy Posted November 2 Author Share Posted November 2 The tunnel wasn't to bad tbh it had been battered with a hammer tho at some point and was an auto tunnel ime fitting a big motor in this so the tunnel would have to be hacked anyway ..no mate ime going to cap all the ends of the box weld in some captive nuts and fill the inside with old engine oil can do the outside and underside with get raptor Painted 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted November 2 Share Posted November 2 (edited) You will probably like this, and yes, car still exists, 😎 running a E46 M3, about 400bhp. The man could steer, 👍 Also this, old thread, but guys skill level was unreal, and effort outstanding. Edited November 2 by ®evo03 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stumpy Posted November 2 Author Share Posted November 2 I keep going to fetgals as I like the way he's done his wide body and the bulkhead/tunnel. Glad it's still around. I've seen a few videos of him in that fair play to the lad..te other one I will have a good read on that looks class work. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stumpy Posted November 4 Author Share Posted November 4 (edited) That’s all the outriggers done ,,,,,now to slide some 80x40 box into the cill cavity and weld onto the outriggers So the shell is solid mounted then the fun bit the tunnel ect chassis rails I’ve done purposely over length at rear in case I fit an irs and can fabricate off these far better to cut off excess than not have enough Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Edited November 4 by stumpy 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stumpy Posted November 5 Author Share Posted November 5 (edited) Sorry for rubbish pics I didnt check to see if you could see clearly just assumed.. so basically. I measured from the inner Cill to a flat bracket clamped to the inside of the chassis rails to make sure the body is sitting square on the chassis. ..now all spot on at 290mm. At each corner measured very close to the outriggers. Once I haD it all. Squared up a few Tec screws to hold in position don't want to be putting any weld down just yet measure measure come away and measure again tomorrow then hit it with the molten metal gun..not so much work wouldn't even say it was progress but it's probably the most important thing to get done at this stage .. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Edited November 5 by stumpy 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted November 5 Share Posted November 5 Keep it up mate, that’s some lovely strengthening going in to the shell 😎 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stumpy Posted November 5 Author Share Posted November 5 Ime enjoying it mate if I do something every couple of days on it keeps the enthusiasm and it's a big job but cant wait to. Get back on it atm 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted November 6 Share Posted November 6 definately a thumbs up to enjoying it . some people who dont understand us think were mad but we know whats what ! excellent work and skills you have there . well done youre a credit to the club . i pretty much do something on my fleet every single day and even with the big jobs it keeps the enthusiasm and exitement going . its amazing just how much you can get done by spending an hour in the garage every night ! with the colder damper days coming i am currently painting parts of my car in the kitchen on a large sheet . (replaced bottom mounting areas of front wings ) all part of the fun ! 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted November 6 Share Posted November 6 Great work, and saving, amazing how much work is going into this. I can see the issue with the floor, and was probably the sponge sound deadening holding water. On modifying cars, is there a cut off point as to when a car is classed as non original, and could be classed as something else, towards a space frame or other. Needing alot of paperwork to get it back on the road. Or is there a guide to explain, exactly what can be changed. Maybe to keep a car viable for MOT exemption, etc. Just interested in what major parts can be replaced, how they are mounted. Example would be a rear axle, any solid rear axle can be fitted, with original mounting points, be it standard, or 400 spec. Example is Volvo 7 or 9 series, being very similar to 400. Then the whole engine, running gear debate. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted November 6 Share Posted November 6 2 hours ago, ®evo03 said: Great work, and saving, amazing how much work is going into this. I can see the issue with the floor, and was probably the sponge sound deadening holding water. On modifying cars, is there a cut off point as to when a car is classed as non original, and could be classed as something else, towards a space frame or other. Needing alot of paperwork to get it back on the road. Or is there a guide to explain, exactly what can be changed. Maybe to keep a car viable for MOT exemption, etc. Just interested in what major parts can be replaced, how they are mounted. Example would be a rear axle, any solid rear axle can be fitted, with original mounting points, be it standard, or 400 spec. Example is Volvo 7 or 9 series, being very similar to 400. Then the whole engine, running gear debate. There is (sort of) DVLA guidance. It’s points based and the serialised components (engine/shell) can’t be from a newer vehicle or you lose ‘historic’ status & Modification to the shell (deviation from OEM pickup points etc) also is instant loss of original type approval, so *could* result in Qplate. However, repair to shells to make them better than original is an unwritten dispensation from the powers that be, so long as it’s in keeping with original design. So the rule here is make it look as close to OEM as possible! I have been churning in the washing machine drum for months now deep down in the rabbit hole (metaphor heave🤣) and have come up with a few greys & red areas. My only worry is that it could all change and there is some groups that do not agree with historic status or the fact cars can be modified in the UK so easily. To me, so long as it’s a reconstruction or improvement to original it should be acceptable. this is pretty good guide https://www.hagerty.co.uk/articles/maintenance-and-gear/dvlas-dos-and-donts-the-risks-of-modifying-your-classic-car/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted November 6 Share Posted November 6 (edited) It's this response statement and red tape, that once crossed you cannot go back. The DVLA had no issue with removing the original A-Series engine and replacing it with a powertrain developed by Eco Classics – it failed the car for a single small hole that had been drilled to route some high voltage cables. “It seems there has been material removed from the monocoque/body shell by means of drilling… it is not possible to confirm that the structure of this vehicle is as per the manufacturer first intended,” wrote the DVLA The DVLA confirmed that reverting the chassis back to its original state would still be considered a modification from the original manufacturer’s specification, requiring the car to be re-registered. That would mean submitting the car for an IVA (Individual Vehicle Approval) They simply do not understand, not fit for purpose. I would hate to see anyone fall into their cash cow. I had to explain the 3 DVLA members of staff that a car registered on the 1st day of the 1st month, was indeed manufactured the previous year, it took 45mins. Thats the level we are dealing with here. Edited November 6 by ®evo03 But a great read, and guides to avoiding. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted November 6 Share Posted November 6 (edited) It's a tick box exercise, so they couldn't register a cc for the mini, therefore it became a kitcar, that disappeared down a SVA rabbit hole, in terms of kit car rules. So beat the tick box, beat the system. Originally they couldn't agree on rotary engines being either 1.3, 2.6 or 3.9. Interestly they don't push this too much or at all: some of the listed recalls are very worrying. https://www.check-vehicle-recalls.service.gov.uk/recall-type/vehicle/make/BMW/model/3 SERIES/year/2004/recalls Worth checking any vehicle. As there is no guarantee a second owner will be notified. I do believe a vehicle will pass MOT with outstanding safety recalls 🤣 https://www.check-vehicle-recalls.service.gov.uk/recall-type/vehicle/make Edited November 6 by ®evo03 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stumpy Posted November 6 Author Share Posted November 6 (edited) Ime just going to build it and sort wTever needs sorting when it's done Fully welded the remaining outriggers. And cut the 80x40 box to size ready to slide down the cill cavity Edited November 6 by stumpy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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