robah Posted February 19, 2006 Share Posted February 19, 2006 Last year I bought a GTE Exclusive (string is not a bonnet lock) I have finally managed to start working on the car, removing the bumpers, front wings, bonnet, engine, gearbox, pedals, propshaft, and exhaust system, etc. While under and around the car I found bodge jobs, like tape covered in wax oil where the sills should be, body filler where panels should be, and rust where chassis should be (photos to follow). I have taken on the car as a long term (2 year)project, but wonder if I have taken on too much work. As some of the photos show I do have the aid of a big workshop (motorclub, RAF) so I do have an advantage in some respects but where do you say enough is enough. It looks like I will probably have to invest in a body roller (not cheap []), and probably go to a ship yard for steel[:I]. I am not restoring the car to sell on, and I don't mind spending a little extra cash on the car, if it is worth it. but at what stage would you say it is scrap. The photos were taken by my phone that's why they are not great I hope the car restoring pixes and faries around my car tonight[:I]. Rob Membership No.5890 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gunman Posted February 19, 2006 Author Share Posted February 19, 2006 Thats a few bucket loads of work there. unfortunately your the only one who can make the decision. It would also depend on what condition you want the car in. The chassis legs are your biggest problem I found my car to be a load of work but its nowhere near that! having said that all can be fixed and you wouldnt be the first peson to start stipping a car down, realise the work needed and consider abandoning the project, heck i had the same feeling! Once you get stuck in and see some progress you'll start to feel a lot better about it. When I took what I thought was an excellent car apart I didnt get a good nights sleep for a fortnight! Take each section at a time and take your time. Youve given yourself a realistic timescale (I gave myself 6 months and now I'm under pressure)and you know what your taking on. If youre thinking of a body roller there was chat on here a while ago about getting them made up for i think £90, (dont quote me) do a search! Go on save it! You'll get a warm feeling when youre finished! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robah Posted February 19, 2006 Share Posted February 19, 2006 Cheers gunman I know that the biggest problem with the car is me, I so desperately want to get the car on the road, but also I don't want my heart to run away with it as I did when I bought it. My head has to come in to play to calm me down. I am trying to break the repairs in to sections so I start at the front and work back. I have just found a website http://www.beeversautopanels.co.uk that do inner wing mounting rails and complete sills for a good price. I have been keeping an eye on your project as you have given me hope in mine. Hope to carry on with the car soon, but have got a cheap holiday to Tenerife to enjoy first. Hopefully progress will continue from here on Rob Membership No.5890 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrCarlos Posted February 20, 2006 Share Posted February 20, 2006 That looks similar to mine - it will be a load of work and then some! But, look on the bright side, once it's all done properly you know it's done...and nothing will surprise you any more[8D] Like Gunman says, take it one step at a time, and those workshop facilities will really help - beats my crappy little domestic garage and rain swept driveway hands down[] If you can weld yourself it helps, and invest in some good kit too. Anyway - good luck with it, don't let another one go to the scrap heap[!] Carlos[] 1984 "C" Coupe Red Top 16v - B623RWW OMOC Member#5937 Free me!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h0tr0dder_uk Posted February 20, 2006 Share Posted February 20, 2006 judging by the pics I would either 1) get the whole car acid dipped or shot blasted and start from there or 2) do what i did and attack every part that looks rotten with an angle grinder. You might not have much left afterwards, but at least once its all welded back together you will be safe in the knowledge that its a strong car and that it will last. I remember seeign a video once of a car with rotten sills being t-boned. not a pretty site. now i just chop out the rot and replace it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Autoscum101 Posted February 20, 2006 Share Posted February 20, 2006 im with hotrodder on that one, part 2 is the approach i used too. it is a lot of work though, but c'mon its a Manta, you know it'll be worth it in the end!! [] 1984 GT/E Coupe, 1978 Cavalier, 1972 Firenza. OMOC # 5875 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gunman Posted February 21, 2006 Author Share Posted February 21, 2006 probably an obvious point but I'll say it anyway, dont go mad with an angle grinder.[:0]. cut out one rotten section at a time and repair it before moving on, keeps the structure and strength. You dont want the car breaking in 2[V][V]. Be especially careful when cutting out the chassis rails and make sure the car is well suported at both sides. I'm sure this is what the guys meant! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbie Posted February 21, 2006 Share Posted February 21, 2006 Time and effort is whats needed, i know you say you want the car on the road, best thing to do is get it in your head that the car won't be on the road for a couple of years. But if you take the time and do it right you have a car that will serve you for years to come [^] http://www.mantamagic.com OMOC N,Ireland Rep id="blue"> OMOC 5706 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick Posted February 23, 2006 Share Posted February 23, 2006 Lots of work there..dont try to do too much at one time, try to finish one bit instead of flitting about doing a bit here and there, you wont make any visible progress that way and get fed up. By the way, which RAF Motorclub is it in...I wish I still had use of one, got posted to a tiny place with nothing at all.. Mick OMOC 5924 1980 Black Berlinetta Coupe, 2.0 SRI Project 1984 Silver GT/E Coupe, Road Rally Car 1980 Cavalier 1600 GL, Slammed Retro Cruiser Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbie Posted February 23, 2006 Share Posted February 23, 2006 Keep posting your progress on here and pics, We will keep you motivated or give the odd kick up the butt [] http://www.mantamagic.com OMOC N,Ireland Rep id="blue"> OMOC 5706 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robah Posted March 12, 2006 Share Posted March 12, 2006 Mick sorry about long reply, been on holiday []. It is at Kinloss, where my last Manta SR Berlinetta spent 18 months in the mid 90's. I hope to start the long process of cutting and welding soon, I just need to find a good steel supplier to start shaping the car. I think I will start with the chasis rails to the front jacking points one side at a time. Rob Membership No.5890 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robah Posted April 17, 2006 Share Posted April 17, 2006 Engine/G,box and front axle off the car. Found the chasis to be completely rotted at o/s fwd axle rear pickup point, n/s not that good either. Seriously thinking of replacing whole chasis both sides as I think I will end up chasing rust to the back of the chasis anyway. Has anyone any suggestions and know of any suppliers, I have looked at dr manta site 500 euros a side, not including postage etc. What is the quality of these parts are they worth it? It looks like somebody as been jumping roundabouts in this car as all chasis members are dented or split/cracked. Rob Membership No.5890 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d818anr Posted April 18, 2006 Share Posted April 18, 2006 I might be wrong but I think Paul our chairman used dr manta rails and he was really happy with them. http://www.chavspotters.com Andy Turner a.k.a Fat Southern B'stard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MANTAMAN Posted April 19, 2006 Share Posted April 19, 2006 The rot looks typical of most late Mantas,the chaasie rails can be repaired with two layers of 2mm plate,doing one face at a time,using a pre-drilled bolt hole to line everything up,not a truely original finnish,but strong,thats how i repaired mine. the footwells can be done with steel sheet,as can various areas of the inner wings,battery tray/washer bottle tray,not absolutely original but solid.unless your after a totally original concours winner then these type of repairs wont be noticed. Wing rails,sills,rear arches and lower rear quarters are available from Hadrian Panels also trading as Car panels http://www.carpanels.com they supply other panel retailers.jacking points come from the club. Lots and lots of 'us' have done these repairs to our Mantas,it is worth it in the end,not only because you have a GOOD car but also the satisfaction you get has to be experianced,plus the knowledge you gain in doing something like this cant be bought or got out of a book.it seems a lot of trouble but stick with it to the end,i think you'll find it worth it! South Midz Manta Bitz Selling all sorts of parts for your Manta,we dont know exactly what we have got,but there's so much we probably have what you want!surplus parts bought,whole cars considerd. M/B 07947 640505 A MANTAMAN/ 'DEL BOY' Enterprize OMOC Member number 2658F Ian Virco,area rep,Beds and North Bucks,and now with added Hertfordshire! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robah Posted April 22, 2006 Share Posted April 22, 2006 quote:chaasie rails can be repaired with two layers of 2mm plate,doing one face at a time,using a pre-drilled bolt hole to line everything up,not a truely original finnish,but strong,thats how i repaired mine. id="quote">id="quote"> Cheers Ian I will look at doing that, I have found a good supplier for steel,just need to find a trailer that I can get it back on, the minimum size they do is 8'x4'(they don't cut it on site[xx(]). Does the chassis have a box section at the hole where the rear of the front axle attaches as it seems to on mine. Rob Membership No.5890 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robah Posted April 30, 2006 Share Posted April 30, 2006 Started removing the swan neck part of the chassis, drivers side first quote:cut out one rotten section at a time and repair it before moving on, keeps the structure and strengthid="quote">id="quote">Cheers Gunman. Box section that strengthens the chassis at the bolt hole rear of front axle is corroded but still intact, more than I can say about the rail, the corrosion jumped of the car before the grinder got near it. I did notice that before the rot set in that it looked like the chassis going up to engine bay was doubled skin, can anyone confirm this? as I don't want to be left with the strength missing by just replacing the rail. I had some better luck as I was checking through my spares I found the swan neck and lower chasis rail spares staring at me, for the drivers side "Billy Bonus".[8D] I hope to upload picys soon. Also removed front cross member, well it jumped of landed on the floor and disintegrated in to a cloud of rust. Starting to feel a little more upbeat about the challenge ahead Rob Membership No.5890 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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