macgyver2159 Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 I bought the car about 6 months ago and the guy drove it over here.i didnt have a licence so all it got in that 6 months was it got started and maybe short runs to the store.the problem has gotten progressively worse till now it wont even get out of the parking space.the symptoms are, runs great,you can even rev it and its smooth,till you put it in gear and try to move it.it sounds like you pulled the choke,it sputters and floods till you feather the gas till it levels back off.then it runs great again till you try to move it again. what ive done so far to fix the problem....ive put new coil,condenser,points,cap,rotor,wires and plugs.ive ran the gas line into a can off fresh petro to eliminate the "bad fuel" idea.and ive rebuilt the carb then did the starter fluid trick to check for leaks around the carb,nothing..ive bounced on the bumper to see if it was water in the fuel and ive even didconnected my fuel pump and tried to back it up without the pressure from the fuel pump and it still did it..any ideas> the car is a 74 manta with the 1.9 with a new electric fuel pump. it has the manual tranmission in it and i checked the vacume advance and the diaphram is moving the linkage in the distiburter,but to me it seemed to take alot of vacume to get the things to move,but they did move..rechecked the float today and its set at 18 mm. Im out of ideas other than maybe a relay under the dash might have corroded or somrthing..i just dont know... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick-Manta Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 Does the electric fuel pump have a pressure regulator and if so is it correctly set? Since you've tried disconnecting the fuel pump anyway I doubt that's the problem. As it only seems to play up under load I would first focus on the carb jets, you say you've rebuilt it but perhaps a swap for a second hand replacement would be a good option? This is of course, assuming that the carb is flooding, it's surprising what it may 'feel' like is happening is actually something else altogether. Is it an automatic or stick shift just out of interest? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 Hi mate, Sorry to hear of your problems - heres a few ideas to keep you going: - Is the distributor vacuum advance pipe connected? - If you suck on the vacuum pipe can you see the weights move under the points base plate? - Has the timing slipped? - Is the exhaust blocked? (couple of well documented cases on these pages recently) - Is it an auto choke Carb? - if so does it work correctly? ps Is it an auto or a manual box? Good luck mate. Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 (edited) Deleted Edited October 2, 2017 by mantadoc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 ive also had one where the breather in rocker box was totally blocked causing a internal pressure build up. quick test with cap off ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 If you suck on the vacuum pipe and it causes the bob weights to move you are in trouble! Sorry, don't understand - have I messed up? Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowy Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 Sorry, don't understand - have I messed up? Ian The vacuum pipe should move a diaphragm which is attached to the base plate mechanically with a linkage. So it moves the base plate directly. I think that is what mantadoc is getting at?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1900SR Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 Have you tried lubing the distributor? I bought a 2.0 hatch a few years back that was diagnosed with a faulty carb, kept blowing back, missing and all sorts. Changed the carb and it was just the same. Called out the breakdown service and he put a bit of petroleum jelly on the cam, and it was all fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynamytedan Posted April 9, 2009 Share Posted April 9, 2009 aswell as whats alreay been suggested , 2 things i would also check. engine earth straps ( use a jump lead to eliminate that ) and air leaks manifold to engine gasket, brake servo diaphragms and servo vaccume hoses can perish over time leak air (and still look ok) , disconnect it and block the hole on the manifold . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blockhead Posted April 10, 2009 Share Posted April 10, 2009 Just a thought but are you sure the brakes haven't seized on? They would obviously try to stall the car and you'd need more throttle to keep the revs up.... Otherwise, I don't know about the exact carb but do they have a breather pipe? Had loads of trouble with my V8 offroader- turned out to be mud blocking the breather- ran great until you tried to get any torque out of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick-Manta Posted April 11, 2009 Share Posted April 11, 2009 Otherwise, I don't know about the exact carb but do they have a breather pipe? Had loads of trouble with my V8 offroader- turned out to be mud blocking the breather- ran great until you tried to get any torque out of it. Should be a Zenith INAT but yes they all have the breather tube from the back of the rocker cover turret into the air filter housing. On your V8, the flametraps in the breather pipes are counted as a service part so these should be changed every 20,000 miles or so as they do block easy as I also found. Any luck as yet Mcgyver? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blockhead Posted April 11, 2009 Share Posted April 11, 2009 Should be a Zenith INAT but yes they all have the breather tube from the back of the rocker cover turret into the air filter housing. On your V8, the flametraps in the breather pipes are counted as a service part so these should be changed every 20,000 miles or so as they do block easy as I also found. Any luck as yet Mcgyver? Can't say that I've ever had trouble with the flame traps from the rocker covers, but my I put twin SU HIF 44 carbs on my engine off a previous one and they have their own separate breather pipes that go straight from each carb and are designed to end at the front of the left hand chassis rail. Hence I filled them with mud on a particularly sloppy bit and promptly moved them after working out the problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macgyver2159 Posted April 17, 2009 Author Share Posted April 17, 2009 I bought the car about 6 months ago and the guy drove it over here.i didnt have a licence so all it got in that 6 months was it got started and maybe short runs to the store.the problem has gotten progressively worse till now it wont even get out of the parking space.the symptoms are, runs great,you can even rev it and its smooth,till you put it in gear and try to move it.it sounds like you pulled the choke,it sputters and floods till you feather the gas till it levels back off.then it runs great again till you try to move it again. what ive done so far to fix the problem....ive put new coil,condenser,points,cap,rotor,wires and plugs.ive ran the gas line into a can off fresh petro to eliminate the "bad fuel" idea.and ive rebuilt the carb then did the starter fluid trick to check for leaks around the carb,nothing..ive bounced on the bumper to see if it was water in the fuel and ive even didconnected my fuel pump and tried to back it up without the pressure from the fuel pump and it still did it..any ideas> the car is a 74 manta with the 1.9 with a new electric fuel pump. it has the manual tranmission in it and i checked the vacume advance and the diaphram is moving the linkage in the distiburter,but to me it seemed to take alot of vacume to get the things to move,but they did move..rechecked the float today and its set at 18 mm. Im out of ideas other than maybe a relay under the dash might have corroded or somrthing..i just dont know... ok,got to thinking about what has been changed from original(that i knew of, anyways)and that was the fuel pump becouse the block im using doesnt have the hole cast for it, and the carb is a weber.so i started with the carb becouse the pump is new.So i rebuilt it.Rerechecked the float and yes its still at 18....Damn...the symptoms still havent changed at all...checked the feul pump and it was the E8012sm. A 5 to 7.5 i think,well i remeber from rebuilding the carb,its a No more than 3.so 45 dollars later i now have a 0 to 4 pump.the E8012s.still no change at all.rechecked for vacume leaks around the manifold and base of the carb,and borrowed a vacume tester and found out the vacume advance was kinda sluggish.but it held.I smelled the exhaust and to me it smelled kinda weak,but that was at idle.so for everything ive done,I havent even chaged the symptoms at all.OMG! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted April 17, 2009 Share Posted April 17, 2009 Start working through all of the suggestions above mate, then see if things improve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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