Paul Barrett Posted April 13, 2015 Author Share Posted April 13, 2015 Little more stock pile parts for final build Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted April 16, 2015 Author Share Posted April 16, 2015 My wife will kill me if she's sees what I've been buying haha Been meaning to buy a press for a long time, so I thought i may aswell get a half decent one, so many uses Also got a this wilwood tandem MC for a good price, hopefully my calls are right and the bore is suitable And a pulley for the eaton m90, been waiting some time for this to come from the states, 2.5" should net 9psi boost, maximum for the m90 and the engine really in stock form 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted April 17, 2015 Author Share Posted April 17, 2015 (edited) Well squeezed an hour in, Press erected Stripped the eaton shaft down ready for new bearings, had to turn up a spilt sleeve to shift one bearing, so not straight forward, but all ready for new bits Stripping the nose piece now and cleaning, not sure weather to polish it up or just paint, opinions? Also need to machine some material off the end for the new ting pulley to actually fit, literally 1mm needed, Edited April 17, 2015 by Paul Barrett 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony g Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 Nice haul there Paul . When I got my 20 press similar to yours the first thing I did was cut the angle that holds the bed and widen it with more angle. That way you get a lot more things through the gap To take up the now back and forth slap I glued some plastic buttons on the sides to make it stable again. 10 minute job for a man of your means . Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony g Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 Now Ive looked again your bed appears to be held together with bolts and tubes so easier to widen Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted April 17, 2015 Author Share Posted April 17, 2015 (edited) Yeah, a small fortune there with import dutys etc, its easy to modify for bigger stuff etc, could do with some more v blocksof varying sizes etc Edited April 17, 2015 by Paul Barrett Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted April 26, 2015 Author Share Posted April 26, 2015 Got the snout done, baked some engine paint on, and polished the face of the pulley You can just about see I had to machine of some material of the snout tip to allow the tiny pulley to clear it, I say machine, but elbow grease with some files 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted May 2, 2015 Author Share Posted May 2, 2015 Got permission to spend a few hours on the A, a very productive few they were too! Got cracking with the inlet manifold for SC, Lopped off the centre of the inlet, nice new blade in the bandsaw with a course TPI to lunch through the cast alloy, then flatted it on the As you can see though it's absolutly filthy and corroded, So after a bit of a wire brushing, acetone in a bucket, flap wheel on angle grinder action got it to a reasonable state for tigging up, some 6mm plate for the sides, with a set of holes ore drilled for opening up to port match once welded Despite all the careful cleaning the welds were not great, lots of crap in the cast ally I guess, itl do I won't really be seen much Repeat on t'other side Just need to open up the round holes with a die to match inlet tracts, will drop some weld on to and radius them a touch to aid flow Dropped the 10mm top plate on to see where I'm at, looks Like I can' trim another 15-20mm off to further lower the charger, looks like I'll get away with a slight bonnet bulge fingers crossed 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony g Posted May 2, 2015 Share Posted May 2, 2015 Looks at home there Paul Had a similar weld problem on a sump I had modded, lots of crap in the cast. As long as it seals thats the main thing. Where are you bring the fresh air from to get to the back of the blower? Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted May 2, 2015 Author Share Posted May 2, 2015 I'm sure it'll be fine. I'll be putting an elbow off the sc to a throttle body with a cold air fees from the the grill I imagine, did think about twin throttles for a bit of symmetry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted May 4, 2015 Author Share Posted May 4, 2015 (edited) After a measure up an inter cooler in the manifols isn't a possibility. Bent up the bottom of the inlet this morning for welding in, my new press is awesome, made easy work of the 6mm ally plate Dodgy looking support device Had to do a few small tacks to hold everything in place before removing and welding it up, no pics of this because it's shite! At least only the good welds on show Edited May 4, 2015 by Paul Barrett Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted May 4, 2015 Author Share Posted May 4, 2015 (edited) I have learnt a lot welding this up, arc gap is key, getting a nice ball to form on the tungsten and keeping a consistent arc gap between the tip and the piece, not easy with the heat generated, also the piece needs to be hot prior to welding which I could do with some oxy flame gear, made do with a cheap blowtorch I had lying about. Also clean clean clean, the ally has to be spotless and as with steel the better the fit the easier it is.. How flat the piece has stayed I won't know until I mess around with some liquid gasket and see where it meets well, fingers crossed for that when it finished Next up is the top plate for the charger to bolt to, This will be challenging as there is no room for error really, the top pulley has to line up with the bottom pulley perfectly and the top plate is 10mm thick, I think this will be a challenge for my little tig, as its on its max with the 6mm, plenty of heat in the piece should do it, Edited May 16, 2015 by Paul Barrett Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volksdevil Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 Wow! Incredible project and skills. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted May 15, 2015 Author Share Posted May 15, 2015 Been meaning to make one of these for ages, Ordered some 10mm plate steel yesterday, picked it up this afternoon and got cracking! It's 1000x600mm, sturdy as hell and a proper job, welder on its max, just as I was about to do my last bead of the day it cut out Few pics of where I got to Need some more box section to tie in the legs and make a foot rest in the centre, Once it's done I'm going to have a shift round in the workshop. I'm going to remove my large and too high bench , as I just fill it with crap and don't put anything away! This smaller table may make me be a little More tidy, well that's the plan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MANTAMAN Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 Once it's done I'm going to have a shift round in the workshop. With an engine crane by the look of it !!! you could put your car on that !!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted May 15, 2015 Author Share Posted May 15, 2015 It is rather heavy Ian, I can just about lift it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retro Power Posted May 16, 2015 Share Posted May 16, 2015 I have learnt a lot welding this up, arc gap is key, getting a nice ball to form on the tungsten and keeping a consistent arc gap between the tip and the piece, not easy with the heat generated, also the piece needs to be hot prior to welding which I could do with some oxy flame gear, made do with a cheap blowtorch I had lying about. Also clean clean clean, the ally has to be spotless and as with steel the better the fit the easier it is.. Hi flat the pice has stayed I won't know until I mess around with some liquid gasket and see where it meets well, fingers crossed for that when it finished Next up is the top plate for the charger to bolt to, This will be challenging as there is no room for error really, the top pulley has to line up with the bottom pulley perfectly and the top plate is 10mm thick, I think this will be a challenge for my little tig, as its on its max with the 6mm, plenty of heat in the piece should do it, Only just caught up with this thread! Looing good! Re welding, yep on heavy alloy preheat is really key. Otherwise you need too much heat for the tungsten to stand to get the weld going at the start. Tacking thick stuff is really quite tricky! Presume you're using a 5/32 tungsten. A big tungsten really helps too (also assume youre using a water cooled torch, you'll struggle on the long runs if not) Re. getting the charger position right, you are best to get it roughly right at fab stage then make/bodge a milling fixture up to get the whole lot in a milling machine and finish it off after welding, as no matter what you do it will move a bit nice work, looking very good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted May 16, 2015 Author Share Posted May 16, 2015 Cheers, Yes using a big tungsten and getting it as hot as poss now with a map gas torch. Only have an air cooled wp26 I'm only doing short runs on this thick ally as machine is on its max Very true on the milling at the end, which is in fact why my next big purchase is a mill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retro Power Posted May 16, 2015 Share Posted May 16, 2015 You are welcome to use ours if it's not too far to travel? Looking at the size of the top you may need a biggish fly cutter which I don't have tho. Still welcome to use mill though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retro Power Posted May 16, 2015 Share Posted May 16, 2015 (edited) Ps rigging up water cooler can be done cheaply. Water cooled torch not too bad off eBay. eBay Pond pump and a tank of some sort and you're pretty much away. Return water from torch to the tank and plop the pump in the bottom of the tank. Put a little inline cheapy plastic fuel filter in torch feed on mine to stop muck blocking torch head. Mine only has a 25 litre tank and that keeps it cool for a good 45 mins of 175amps or so. Water is maybe 35 Deg or so after that Edited May 16, 2015 by Retro Power Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted May 16, 2015 Author Share Posted May 16, 2015 Cheers dude, I'm not too far. See how I get on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted May 16, 2015 Author Share Posted May 16, 2015 Cheers for the info, my r-Tech machine is only rated to 160A kind wish I went for a higher rating, but as always funds dictate, as this is only a 'hobby' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retro Power Posted May 16, 2015 Share Posted May 16, 2015 R tech kit seems good. Not often you need more than 160a on car stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Abbott Posted May 17, 2015 Share Posted May 17, 2015 Great work. Nice to see it progressing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted May 22, 2015 Author Share Posted May 22, 2015 Had another tidy up and clear out to make way for the new weldin table, lick of paint looks the biz Made anothe space here For this tomorrow with any luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.