plumster Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Reeto guys, at last got round to replacing my water pump. I saw water dripping from under the front of the engine when I fired it up after a cold spell, SO, I'm assuming the water pump has popped. Hopefully it isn't anything else. If you have any other ideas,, please jump in. Like wise with this removal - refit procedure, if you have a better, simpler or a more correct way, please jump in. Okay, here we go. Lurking in the garage the owd lass is uncovered. Wings & everything not being worked on covered up to stop anything marking the paintwork. Get on your back slither under the front & remove the securing bolt at the bottom of the rad. keeping a bit of grease on this can save you a lot of heartache. Remove Rad top hose. Remove Rad bottom hose. (Nasty brown liquid may splash all over your best suede loafers at this point) With bottom bolt removed & both hoses off, slide, wiggle & grunt till the rad slides upwards out of it's mountings. I had to prise the side brackets open a bit to get the rad to move upwards. Take great care of your shiny bits. Clive's shiny bit removed very carefully so now you can see the bits you want to play with. Loosen the alternator bolt to get the fan belt off, you have numerous occasions to get this bit done, either before or after fan removal. There are four bolts that secure the plastic fan to a mounting plate, thankfully these came out pretty easily. Fan off, fan belt off next the water pump itself. The mounting plate prises off with a big screwdrive, well it did for me. There are 6 bolts securing the Water pump, 3 long & 3 short. The one bottom right is a real mutha to get to as the bottom pulley wheel is in the way of a ratchet set, so quarter turns with a small ring spanner did it for me. (at this stage I needed a brew). Hopefully the pump will just ease away from the engine. Obviously a new gasket will be needed, it's really important to clean the crap of the mounting area. I scraped the old gasket with a chisel & emery paper.. Prior to fitting the new pump I will give it another going over. To some of you guys this will be 2nd nature, but if I have done this before I can't remember doing it. What have I missed or what should I have done differently? Is there anything I need to be wary of when putting the new one on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiney_norman Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 It's a fairly straight forward job, but you certainly got lucky with the six water pump bolts. I've done this a couple of times, first time 2 of the bolts snapped off in the timing cover, so the second time I was more careful and spent about an hour just removing those six bolts. Don't think there's anything I'd have done differently to the way you have though, and it's always useful to have a thread like this on here for the newer members who may not have worked on one of these engines before! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rab Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 If only the Haynes Manuel was as good, pic description of work.If got the time worth while cleaning all shown in piccy`s /re paint und clean off any grud build build up especially lower frame rad.Good chance also to flush rad and clean oot any debri fins and check awe hoses as clips can bite into after awe while and cause small splits in older hoses. Looking fair braw under yon bonnet. cheers rab. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manta400john Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Is that a GM exchange engine?, blue/turquoise paint?......Just wondering. Have only ever changed 1 water pump on a CIH, job went well, think I might have been lucky with the 6 bolts as well. Assuming you'll be greasing the threads on reassembly Crack on ! John. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
opel2000 Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 Damn good duide there Sam, as it is the bottom bolt that threw me out the first time I did this, with fan and everything still attached Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plumster Posted January 18, 2011 Author Share Posted January 18, 2011 (edited) Cheers Chaps, seems I may have been lucky to have all the bolts come out fairly easily. Before I put the new un on I will be degunking & having a major clean up round the engine, probably stick a new alternator on while I am on the case. Now when that lazy Andy Rutter gets his arse in gear I(we) will do a photo epic of a dashboard removal & refit. Oh, I have a new door window to put in as well, does the nightmare ever end ??????? Doing this, I really can't remember why or how I used to enjoy spannering on this car. Anyone notice how oily it looks under this car? All during it's on the road daily driver life it was oil sprayed with new oil every year, for about 18 years. Hats off to you guys who get stuck in on rebuilds & recovery of the demics, you are truly Gods amongst men. Oh, it is a factory refurb engine, believe it or not the damn water pump shot it's t1ts out at about 30k, I hadn't realised & major damage ensued. So I ordered a refurb motor from Vauxhall, had it delivered to T.D Auto Tech who did some diddling & recam work along with the Weber conversion, but that's 20 or so years ago. Edited January 18, 2011 by plumster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rallycinq Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 I think that some CIH engines have a larger crank pulley that prevents the bottom water pump bolt coming out without first removing said crank pulley. Thats how it was on mine. Other than that, the job can be done without removing the radiator, but makes it easier with it out, and again some CIHs, the later ones have viscous fans so removal of the fan is slightly different. Great guide. Cheers D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 (edited) I have never ever replaced water pump bolts, or some engines studs, without putting copper ease grease on them, in fact I put copper ease on any threads on any bolts or studs that are on the underside of any vehicle, even the MOT inspector asked me once if I was addicted to it there is nothing better to plaster all over the rear drum brake snail adjusters, never any problem when adjusting rear shoes. Great Stuff. Edited March 5, 2011 by Julian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 I think that some CIH engines have a larger crank pulley that prevents the bottom water pump bolt coming out without first removing said crank pulley. I've never had that problem with either the pressed steel ones or cast ones or multi Vee ones. The thing I have noticed is that the pump had had to be lifted out with the volt still in the flange as total removal could not be done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 I've never had that problem with either the pressed steel ones or cast ones or multi Vee ones. The thing I have noticed is that the pump had had to be lifted out with the volt still in the flange as total removal could not be done. Aye, and if you don't put that bolt into the hole in the pump before putting the pump in place and start putting the other bolts in, you have to take it all out and start again, I've been caught on that, but only once Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 Aye, and if you don't put that bolt into the hole in the pump before putting the pump in place and start putting the other bolts in, you have to take it all out and start again, I've been caught on that, but only once Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plumster Posted March 6, 2011 Author Share Posted March 6, 2011 (edited) Right chaps, spent all day today getting ready for a refit..... will try & do it next Sunday & complete the photo file. I did remove the alternator to fit a new one, then started to degrease the engine for scrub down, but Geoff Twist pointed out to me a couple of years ago that the blue engine wasn't a good look. This has played on my mind ever since, thanks Geoff.... Sooooooo, out with the Nitromoors, after much diddling, fiddling, brushing, rubbing, scratching, scraping, wailing, moaning & having brew or two, I have a shiny engine all in black. The radiator has been rubbed down & also repainted, twice, after the first lot of "Gloss" paint ended up matt????? No doubt something else will pop up, but stay tuned. Edited March 6, 2011 by plumster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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