Spitandpolish Posted November 14, 2016 Author Share Posted November 14, 2016 Thanks Ian, that is some much needed inspiration for this little job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitandpolish Posted January 14, 2017 Author Share Posted January 14, 2017 (edited) So its taken me weeks, due to other tasks and missing bits etc but finally the tank is ready to go back in the car: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. There was something in the tank so out came the sender as I thought it was the float. Turned out to be one of these: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. I think these lead pellets were intended to help add lead, when 4 star fuel was phased out. So, should it go back in???!!! Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Edited January 14, 2017 by Spitandpolish Typo 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rapierdave Posted January 14, 2017 Share Posted January 14, 2017 Looking forward to seeing this hatch back on the road soon & hopefully joining us Bristol & vicinity members in a few meets during 2017. The Lead pellets sack is best placed in the bin, the best way to protect unhardened valve seats is an additive such as Castrol lead substitute or if your only doing short distances & low mileage then you can probably get away with no additive. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted January 14, 2017 Share Posted January 14, 2017 An 85 car may well already have hardened seats. Check head casting. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitandpolish Posted January 14, 2017 Author Share Posted January 14, 2017 3 hours ago, Rapierdave said: Looking forward to seeing this hatch back on the road soon & hopefully joining us Bristol & vicinity members in a few meets during 2017. The Lead pellets sack is best placed in the bin, the best way to protect unhardened valve seats is an additive such as Castrol lead substitute or if your only doing short distances & low mileage then you can probably get away with no additive. Dave - am looking forward to that too! big push to get it back on the road in Feb... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gt/e paul Posted January 14, 2017 Share Posted January 14, 2017 Nice hatch with registration which is local to my area. some great work there. that tank looks great in may get round to doing mine one day.. a note on the head having hardened seats and being able to run on unleaded. on the side of the head, spark plug side there's a flat area if it's stamped p2e you can run on unleaded with no ill affects . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitandpolish Posted January 14, 2017 Author Share Posted January 14, 2017 Thanks, there is a casting mark that appears to say 14b Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. The engine is pretty dirty though, so i may have missed a stamp. Would it be closer to the bulkhead, or front of the engine? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gt/e paul Posted January 14, 2017 Share Posted January 14, 2017 I'll try and see if I can get a pic of it on mine tomorrow. that's when I've found the car in the garage ha ha . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted January 15, 2017 Share Posted January 15, 2017 15 hours ago, Spitandpolish said: Thanks, there is a casting mark that appears to say 14b Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. The engine is pretty dirty though, so i may have missed a stamp. Would it be closer to the bulkhead, or front of the engine? That appears to be cast (raised) not stamped (indented) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H-400 Posted January 15, 2017 Share Posted January 15, 2017 (edited) If you look to the big square hole in the head, the flat part on the left of it: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Edited January 15, 2017 by H-400 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gt/e paul Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 Thats the one h-400 you beat me too it.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H-400 Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 The heads marked with following are also able to run with unleaded: XR22 (engine 2.2E) P22 (engine 2.2E) X24 (engine C24NE) Those 3 heads have other inlet ports so you need original inlet manifold or (better) shortened 6 cilinder manifold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitandpolish Posted February 26, 2017 Author Share Posted February 26, 2017 Sadly, no markings on the head, so it looks like some additives might be needed. On the upside, the tank is back in the car, the sender works well and it now runs and drives with no leaks! Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Also, the drivers seat had usual bolster wear issues Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Its not easy uploading photos here... Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Very pleased with the repaired seat, all new black cloth sections changed Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. I also managed to alter some Range Rover headlight wiper blades to fit. Not ideal, but looks Ok Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robah Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 2 hours ago, Spitandpolish said: Sadly, no markings on the head, so it looks like some additives might be needed. On the upside, the tank is back in the car, the sender works well and it now runs and drives with no leaks! Might be easy to buy a spare later cylinder head that is unleaded ready, for in the future you need to do any engine work. Some nice work on the seats and the tank looks fresh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitandpolish Posted February 26, 2017 Author Share Posted February 26, 2017 Maybe a bit OTT, but the pale pink button was a bit annoying...! Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitandpolish Posted April 1, 2017 Author Share Posted April 1, 2017 So now to the most challenging bit, so far. The sunroof. The previous owner had a leaky seal and so replaced it with black silicone. A nightmare to cut out, but probably the reason why there is so little rust, compared to most. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. I have a replacement seal from East Kent trim, which i assume fits to the sunroof panel: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 Clean your drain tubes JIC, no one notices a leaky seal, it doesn't get you wet (though might whistle) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitandpolish Posted April 1, 2017 Author Share Posted April 1, 2017 Assuming that is right, how is the seal attached at the rear of the roof panel, where it becomes a flat tray and there is no virtical flange??? Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Any photos of the seal fixed to the rear of the roof panel, very much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garymanc Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 the seal at the back is totally different than the front so it won't fit proper and it's glued on originally I would ask the supplier as he seems to think it fits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitandpolish Posted May 6, 2017 Author Share Posted May 6, 2017 Calipers went off to Bigg Red last week Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. And came back this week... Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Great service and quality, for £129. sunroof repair and final paint in two weeks time. Hopefully back on the road permanently, first week of June. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mantacol Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 On 01/04/2017 at 17:28, Spitandpolish said: Assuming that is right, how is the seal attached at the rear of the roof panel, where it becomes a flat tray and there is no virtical flange??? Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Any photos of the seal fixed to the rear of the roof panel, very much appreciated. I'm stuck on this bit too now any news of photos will help please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garymanc Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 44 minutes ago, Mantacol said: I'm stuck on this bit too now any news of photos will help please It's glued on and it's a different profile to the front you'd have to cut part of the seal off to make it fit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitandpolish Posted February 6, 2018 Author Share Posted February 6, 2018 Thats exactly how I did it, used a stanley knife to cut into the bottom of the U channel section, and removed enough to simply glue it on with contact adhesive. Will try to find you a photo over the weekend. This is the only one I can currently find, shows the seal being cut down. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mantacol Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 OMG I am so glad a way not having a stupid moment and it does take a little blue peter to fix😂 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitandpolish Posted July 25, 2018 Author Share Posted July 25, 2018 So after deciding to sell the car due to lack of use and time to spend on it, for some reason I now cannot stop tinkering every evening: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Inlet manifold next, after some heat proof silver paint 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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