Steven Gray Posted November 29, 2017 Share Posted November 29, 2017 Everning I have a 1.8 and can't turn the tick over down anymore then 1250 rpm for some very strange reason. I have turned out the two tick over screws to the point were there in my hand, it turned it down from 1500 rpm to 1250 rpm but that's it. I really like my rpm to be just under 1000 as a rule so I'm in need of a little advice please. Thanks Steven Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dimpas Posted November 29, 2017 Share Posted November 29, 2017 Check if choke is engaged. Is static spark timing ok ? Any wacum leak ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Gray Posted November 29, 2017 Author Share Posted November 29, 2017 (edited) The chock is fine it cuts in when I start from cold as it should although I do rev it up very slitly to kick the chock straight off as it's upto almost 2000 rpm so I kick the chock off that brings it back down to 1250 rpm. All the pipes are fine and been checked. Timing not sure? It doesn't run Ritch/lean and runs really really good with loads of power. Could it still be the timing if all apart from rpm is running spot on?? I thought if the timing was out it would run ruff,it's been alot of yrs since I played with a carburettor what's the electronic black box at the back of it and could that (if faulty) be the problem. Edited November 29, 2017 by Steven Gray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garymanc Posted November 30, 2017 Share Posted November 30, 2017 the black thing is the automatic choke you can adjust it if my memory serves me right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Gray Posted November 30, 2017 Author Share Posted November 30, 2017 Oh OK thanks that handy to know.technical term that is black thing lolol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne ingham Posted November 30, 2017 Share Posted November 30, 2017 If the black thing doesn’t work you can try clean out out the carb with the engine running, Get the engine warm,remove thr air filter housing,get the revs up to about 3;000 rpm,then place your hand over the air inlet of the carb, this will suck out any bits of dirt out of the carb and pulls a lot of petrol though the carb DO NOT LET THE ENGINE CUT OUT as will be hard to restart the engine,if it starts to cut out give it a bit of throttle. this is hard to explain you just have feel it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Gray Posted December 2, 2017 Author Share Posted December 2, 2017 I'll try that, the chock cuts in fine and it's had a few sprays of carb cleaner as well as red x so she's running sweet just fast tick over that's all. I think I'll leave it alone and after Xmas I want to get the carb rebuilt, it makes sence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted December 6, 2017 Share Posted December 6, 2017 If cable has play, would the float be stuck open, rebuilding the carb would sort this, a restriction in the fuel supply would prove this, draining the carb, therefore restricting fuel flow, plyers on the fuel inlet pipe.starve the carb, but not completely, but airleaks in carb would also create high revs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garymanc Posted December 6, 2017 Share Posted December 6, 2017 the choke are well known for sticking on the 1.8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted December 12, 2017 Share Posted December 12, 2017 if this has recently happened and you havnt done any adjustments to the throttle stop screw then dont adjust it if you can help it. if its too far open it can cause the vac advance to cut in .this is set originally with a vac guage and then sealed. the throttle plate is virtually closed.idle speed is adjusted with the larger air bleed screw on the side of carb and mixture with the smaller angled one near the bottom. if it were me i would check operstion of choke as suggested.you should be able to see it drop of the stepped throttle lever one step at a time as the choke opens.(turning the choke body in relation to the pointer increases or decreases time delay but i beleive it should be about 5 mins to full open ?)then check basic ignition timing.if engine is running too fast you should be able to check it on cranking only (make sure mechanical advance appears to work by twisting rotor arm and checking it springs back).then check for any air leaks including brake servo hose.once you are convinced it is a carb setting then adjust idle air bleed screw but just remember that these screws dont usually unscrew themselves and if anything the idle speed can DECREASE over time due to carb passages gumming up not increasing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Gray Posted January 8, 2018 Author Share Posted January 8, 2018 Wowwee I'm no grease monkey just a pity that your not in my area chap I mean I like fiddleing but this seems a bit over my head lol looks like it will have to stay were it is for now 1500 rpm at least it helps the cabin heat up quicker lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 hi mate. it sounds more complicated than it actually is. there should hopefully be some member nearby who can help .i wouldnt try a garage if i could help it as they tend to be a bit out of touch on older cars with distributors and carburettors and could end up making things worse by doing adjustments willy nilly. or failing that let me know what you are actually comfortable with doing and il see if i can help in stages. check first for any air leaks through loose carb mounting bolts or hoses .the main hose to the brake servo is prone to failing so try disconnecting at manifold end and covering the hole to see if revs drop. sometimes just moving this hose can be obvious. you didnt say wether this has happened on its own accord or after some work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted January 9, 2018 Share Posted January 9, 2018 any progress ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Gray Posted January 15, 2018 Author Share Posted January 15, 2018 Yes chap turned out all I had to do was turn the distributor 5 to 8 mm and it runs sweet ticks over at 1000 stops and starts just fine, good old dad lol thanks. It wasn't after any work I had carried out it was ticking over fast when I bought the car from Ruby classics in Middlesbrough. I'll sort it I do like a good fiddle lol the machine I use is a bit of a classic car nut so at least I new before I fiddle with it he will help out he is a nice chap.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 ok. nice to know you have had some progress. if you are happy with it now then thats ok. i just find it strange that the speed lowered when you undid the adjustment srews.i would have expected it to go up because one is an air bleed and one is the mixture. but you say yours went down? . i would have been aiming for 800-850 rpm .so long as you didnt touch the throttle stops . anyways if its ok now thats all that matters. if the mixtures out a bit you can tweak that at next mot. ok mate cheers 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dimpas Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 You Must check and adjust the static advance with a special lamp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Gray Posted January 18, 2018 Author Share Posted January 18, 2018 By static advance you meen the timing right? And Cam in head are you on the fb opel Manta Owners page if so I'd love to chat with you on there as I don't really like this page, nether really got to grips with it but I love the fb page so much easier to chat and share pics. If so search Steven Gray on the members and drop me a hi. P,s there's too Steven Grays but I'm not the one with the bright green car that's someone else lol. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted January 19, 2018 Share Posted January 19, 2018 hi steven.no im not on facebook. our lass is on it every night and cant beleive some of the stuff people bother to post about. plus at my age its not my thing. however i will willingly guide you through setting up your engine on here if thats ok . in stages if necessarry. i just need to know if this car ran correctly originally and did it suddenly go wrong or was it after any work. if so what had you done .obviuosly its not easy eithout the car in front of me but if we go through a stage at a time we should be able to sort it. cheers. chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monaco Blue Posted January 19, 2018 Share Posted January 19, 2018 Facebook is fine for what it is, however for in depth how to guides and the like it's pretty useless. You try finding something that was posted a few weeks back never mind days back and it's not easy. I'm for ever trying to find stuff I was following and it disappears. Fora, such as this one is a much better place for such things. The excuse always seems to be it's much easier to post photos on Facebook (which may be true) but I've never found it to be a problem adding photos here if you have a Flickr account (free) or indeed directly from my PC. Not so easy if using a tablet though. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Gray Posted January 20, 2018 Author Share Posted January 20, 2018 ok no problem. I brought the car in October after it had only coverd 400 odd miles following a complete engine re build in 2015 top and bottom end, new gaskets everywhere, new dizzy cap router arm leads plugs new cam ect the works. The only part that wasn't re built was the carb. I drove the car back 260 miles in one trip and she ran amazing and still does the only thing that broke was the temperature gauge stopped working so we made sure we pulled over now and then on the way home to check she wasn't getting to hot (she was spot on). She was ticking over around the 1500 rpm when I picked her up and although I have slightly turned the distributor to get it down and she drove even better when she was warm I had to turn it back as when she was cold she was a complete bitch to drive lol pitty. There are to screws on the carb for slight tick over speed adjustment neither of them do anything and if I wanted to remove completely and nothing will happen (I haven't removed them just saying) it all seems to be tightened down correctly so no leaks there "carb or inlet manifold" I do have a Haynes manual and would like to be able to drop the rpm down to atlest a 1000 if not more as most of my cars tick over around 850 so let's start again with the suggestion cam in head (What is your name?) slowly and I can work my way through them one at a time to hopefully find the problem Thanks. My number is 07840631597 Steven. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 The first thing that I would do is to check the 'fast idle' steps on carb choke linkage on the carb. It may be that this hasn't been set up quite correctly, not allowing your car to come off fast idle. Which carb is you car fitted with? Is it auto choke or has it had a manual choke conversion? Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dimpas Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 With a good engine (right compression right oil pressure etc) the first thing to check is the timing. You need a timing lamp. First you set by turning the diatributor the static timing . The second step it to verify the dynamic timing . From the carb there is a tube that sends variable vaccum to the distributor. A common fault is to have connected the other carb output that provides constant vaccum... Then you need a digital rpm meter and a exuast analyzer. Depends the carb you have you set the idle rpm ( manufacture value) and with the analyzer you set the mixure so you have a CO good value. Thats the correct procedure. If you have not reconditioned the carb better do it. I would buy a new weber replecement if you have a varajet II. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 4 hours ago, Steven Gray said: ok no problem. I brought the car in October after it had only coverd 400 odd miles following a complete engine re build in 2015 top and bottom end, new gaskets everywhere, new dizzy cap router arm leads plugs new cam ect the works. The only part that wasn't re built was the carb. I drove the car back 260 miles in one trip and she ran amazing and still does the only thing that broke was the temperature gauge stopped working so we made sure we pulled over now and then on the way home to check she wasn't getting to hot (she was spot on). She was ticking over around the 1500 rpm when I picked her up and although I have slightly turned the distributor to get it down and she drove even better when she was warm I had to turn it back as when she was cold she was a complete bitch to drive lol pitty. There are to screws on the carb for slight tick over speed adjustment neither of them do anything and if I wanted to remove completely and nothing will happen (I haven't removed them just saying) it all seems to be tightened down correctly so no leaks there "carb or inlet manifold" I do have a Haynes manual and would like to be able to drop the rpm down to atlest a 1000 if not more as most of my cars tick over around 850 so let's start again with the suggestion cam in head (What is your name?) slowly and I can work my way through them one at a time to hopefully find the problem Thanks. My number is 07840631597 Steven. hi steven. ok so it sounds as thou the engine and items such as plugs,leads ,arm,and cap should all be ok. if you have moved the timing then i would say you need to make sure this is ok first.i assume you have a timing lightt .if so i would set up the lamp as normal on plug lead number 1 Because you dont know if any adjustment has been carried out on the carburrettor throttle stop screws(hopefully not!)i would unplug the vacuum pipe from the distributor and plug the end up and do the first basic test with a thin wire inserted up into each spark plug and to earth EXEPT number 1.(or remove the three leads and ground them one way or another).this is to make sure the engine will not run and will give an accurate timing reading on cranking over only.this is because at a fast idle which yours has the centrifugal weights especially if worn or weak could start to advance the timing. then with an assistant to crank the engine aim the light at the bottom pulley and pointer.the marks should be bought into perfect alignment and the distributor tightened and marked with a suitable paint dot or stanley knife line to denote position. this is a basic static test next i would remove all little earthing wires and run the engine up to temperature. now put the timing light on again and with vacuum pipe still disconnected start the engine and re check the timing again. if its still in line then all well and good but if its now advanced it means the distributor is starting to advance by itself which it realy shouldnt at 1000 rpm. if its still ok.plug in the vacuum advance .hopefully it will still be ok.if not it means the throttle stop screw has been played with and is too far open.. what should happen in a correctly set up system is the timing should be in line at idle and advance ABOVE idle only. a sharp blip of the throttle sholud cause an immediate advance .the weights inside the distributor control a mechsnical advance which should gradually advance as the engine speed increases. sorry if this sounds a bit complicated but its only because you dont know if the throttle dtop screw has been adjusted and to be honest you realy need a vacuum guage in low scale to set it up totally correct but hopefully we should be able to get it somewhere near. but i must stress ....never adjust the throttle stop screw if you can help it.they are factory set to give the correct vacuum and have a cap put over thrm. any way this is stage 1 completed. basic ignition timing.you now know the timing is correct and in line. please note this is for using the old 4star high octane leaded fuel or any of the modern high octane fuels. if you use 95ron unleaded you may need to back off the timing slightly if the pinking noise is heard. say up to 5 degrees,approx 5-7mm on the pulley . so stage one completed. hopefully. have fun. chris""... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted January 22, 2018 Share Posted January 22, 2018 hi steven.any luck yet. im sorry if it sounds alittle overcomplicated and im sure someone will come along and say you dont need to do this and you dont need to do that but im just ensuring you get the timing spot on first before doing any carburettor adjustments . problem is ,we dont know who did what to it before you got it and why it was running fast.and also i dont want to insult you either by assuming you know more or less than i think you do!. dont worry mate wel sort it. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 are you ready for stage two ?. i assume all is well with the above. let me know. cheers. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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