1979 vauxhall Cavalier mk1 auto

[IanG]

On 26/10/2022 at 23:40, Michael mcinerney said:

I  purchased items last night from them also rubber grommets for floor pan and boot.great site highly recommended. Thanks for information H-400

It's heavy for sure.must check if there any place here to refurbish the 3peed Cavalier auto box.i have yet to bring mine for a long drive.had a few short spins seems to drive nice.

Never had an automatic Cavalier mk1 before.every thing nearly back together  few bits need doing looking forward to finally seeing how it drives with other engine 

My refurb cost £500 box was in good condition but needed new parts.

A lot of money but should last a long time on low mileage.

[Rick-Manta]

4-Star Leaded was 98 RON minimum and almost all brands of it were typically higher. I remember back when even the 97 Super Unleaded in 1999-2000 caused older cars to pink (pre detonate) as well as cause over-run/dieseling when Leaded fuel was banned. A lot of people just wanted to pay for the cheaper fuel anyway (these old cars weren't the classics they are today, just cheap run arounds) so the ignition timing was retarded to the point that considerable horsepower was lost.

Today, running on Esso Supreme and Shell V-Power 99+ and both ethanol-free in the South (bar Devon and Cornwall), as has been mentioned, is pretty much essential in a classic and you should set your timing to utilise the octane rating. I even demonstrate in one of my YouTube videos how you get better mpg on the ethanol-free petrol, which makes the "E10" (which is actually between 5-7% ethanol, not 10% yet) a false economy--this can however vary depending on fuel prices as VAT is a percentage of the fuel price plus fuel duty, but at the time of my test cost me 1p per mile more on E10/95RON.

[Jessopia74]

22 hours ago, Rick-Manta said:

4-Star Leaded was 98 RON minimum and almost all brands of it were typically higher. I remember back when even the 97 Super Unleaded in 1999-2000 caused older cars to pink (pre detonate) as well as cause over-run/dieseling when Leaded fuel was banned. A lot of people just wanted to pay for the cheaper fuel anyway (these old cars weren't the classics they are today, just cheap run arounds) so the ignition timing was retarded to the point that considerable horsepower was lost.

Today, running on Esso Supreme and Shell V-Power 99+ and both ethanol-free in the South (bar Devon and Cornwall), as has been mentioned, is pretty much essential in a classic and you should set your timing to utilise the octane rating. I even demonstrate in one of my YouTube videos how you get better mpg on the ethanol-free petrol, which makes the "E10" (which is actually between 5-7% ethanol, not 10% yet) a false economy--this can however vary depending on fuel prices as VAT is a percentage of the fuel price plus fuel duty, but at the time of my test cost me 1p per mile more on E10/95RON.

Exactly. Good info there supporting what many others have said, with background 👍

Another point often overlooked about the E5,E10 fuels is the effect on the old rubbers used throughout the whole fuel system, not just pipes. O rings, internal pump seals etc etc. This is the hidden cost to replace and more importantly large risk ! 

Loads of pics on the internet of classic cars totalled by leaking carb seals etc 😬

[Michael mcinerney]

On 06/11/2022 at 17:58, Rick-Manta said:

4-Star Leaded was 98 RON minimum and almost all brands of it were typically higher. I remember back when even the 97 Super Unleaded in 1999-2000 caused older cars to pink (pre detonate) as well as cause over-run/dieseling when Leaded fuel was banned. A lot of people just wanted to pay for the cheaper fuel anyway (these old cars weren't the classics they are today, just cheap run arounds) so the ignition timing was retarded to the point that considerable horsepower was lost.

Today, running on Esso Supreme and Shell V-Power 99+ and both ethanol-free in the South (bar Devon and Cornwall), as has been mentioned, is pretty much essential in a classic and you should set your timing to utilise the octane rating. I even demonstrate in one of my YouTube videos how you get better mpg on the ethanol-free petrol, which makes the "E10" (which is actually between 5-7% ethanol, not 10% yet) a false economy--this can however vary depending on fuel prices as VAT is a percentage of the fuel price plus fuel duty, but at the time of my test cost me 1p per mile more on E10/95RON.

Petrol here is supposed to be 95ron but you be lucky to get 92 or 93 poor quality fuel.all the additives they put threw it you don't know what you get.try a few different fuel brands each different  colours in a clear class..?

[Jessopia74]

1 hour ago, Michael mcinerney said:

Petrol here is supposed to be 95ron but you be lucky to get 92 or 93 poor quality fuel.all the additives they put threw it you don't know what you get.try a few different fuel brands each different  colours in a clear class..?

I used to work on a refinery ~25 years ago, and there was different grades of fuel for different customers. Some are injected with the additives and some done at delivery. So it could vary quite a bit. However, the BS/EN standard should mean the 95RON is a minimum value to pass certification 😂

[Rick-Manta]

I've recently bought an octane tester, as I've tested most petrols for their current ethanol levels, but as Jess says they vary with region due to the distribution network of each refinery (that can supply to any of the brands) and it would be interesting to see how octane numbers vary and see if the 98, 99 "plus" claims are accurate.

[Jessopia74]

16 hours ago, Rick-Manta said:

I've recently bought an octane tester, as I've tested most petrols for their current ethanol levels, but as Jess says they vary with region due to the distribution network of each refinery (that can supply to any of the brands) and it would be interesting to see how octane numbers vary and see if the 98, 99 "plus" claims are accurate.

That will be interesting to see the results👍
fingers crossed results are better than we expect

[Michael mcinerney]

Cavalier drives perfectly ..Until I saw a big puddle of atf under car.jacked up car leak coming out of kickdown cable plastic coating had cracked. 

 

 

 

Luckily found brand new one from Germany now try and fit bugger.had to open manifold bolts to drop exhaust as space is very tight without dropping exhaust and undo gearbox mounts enough to gain access to kickdown cable. That or remove gearbox which I didn't fancy doing.

 

 

 

New cable arrived last week. So now the fun of fitting it

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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[Jonathan Pounsett]

At least you know what you’re doing this time - you’ll do it much quicker 👍. 

[Michael mcinerney]

Hi all been a while

Engine in red cavalier has had it i think.it developed a missonly really notice it when driving.rechecked everything over again.earth straps timing.coil .leads.plugs.checked for vacume leaks.nothing made a difference.then two weeks ago i heard a rotten lifter noise.put rocker cover i have with top cut away.found number 4 lifter was not coming up same as rest of lifters.ckecked gaps again all seemed ok.put back original rocker cover.noise got worse like piston slap on tickover.

So decided to take head off original engine that was in car this eve.as it only has 30.000miles .cam lobes look good no major wear unlike engine thats in car now.

Is the gasket in the 1.6 heads supposed to be the way it looks not look right around top of piston kinda oval shape as you can see from pictures?

Now that head is off block.what would ye think is best to do.

Reason i removed engine in first place was could not get it to run right no matter what i did.would run great when cold for about five min then wouldnt tick over.had to increase throttle to get it to run.

Any suggestions as whats best to do?

Was going to get head skimmed and new head gasket.

Can head bolts be used again.or new ones needed.if so where can i get new head bolts?

Also need new crankshaft oilseals one behind bottom pully and rear behind flywheel.also another reason i pulled engine out as was leaking oil pretty bad on both seals.can these be got new anymore?

 

 

 

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[cam.in.head]

the gasket shape is manufacturer dependant but usually are round !

head bolts can be reused 12mm multispline type .

if you realy must have a head skim ? then dont take much off and possibly a good time to have hardened  exhaust seats at the same time.

the cam followers not lifting does suggest a worn cam issue but rare on a 1.6. seen plenty on very early 20s engines thou.

again piston slap / excessive borewear unusual on a 1.6 but depends on mileage and overall condition,/ maintenence history.

plenty of ring kits on ebay .

[Michael mcinerney]

7 hours ago, cam.in.head said:

the gasket shape is manufacturer dependant but usually are round !

head bolts can be reused 12mm multispline type .

if you realy must have a head skim ? then dont take much off and possibly a good time to have hardened  exhaust seats at the same time.

the cam followers not lifting does suggest a worn cam issue but rare on a 1.6. seen plenty on very early 20s engines thou.

again piston slap / excessive borewear unusual on a 1.6 bute depends on mileage and overall condition,/ maintenence history.

plenty of ring kits on ebay .

Thanks cam in head

Yes will be getting head skimmed but very little taken off.new gasket

As for hardened exhaust seats what does that involve?

On cam lifters its only number 4 thats not lifting same as rest which is causing the miss in engine i reckon.

Dont know much on history on engine fromlooks of it cam lobes look pretty worn and dont think engine was well looked after.

Thanks for your help and info.

[cam.in.head]

hardened exhaust seats will need fitting by an engine reconditioner to allow free use of unleaded. BUT if you are not doing millions of miles they will possibly be ok as they are now. its just an ideal time whilst in bits !

the worn cam lobe will most definately show as a misfire .unusual on a 1.6 but obviously anything can wear if not maintained by previous owners.

[Michael mcinerney]

Hi all

Checked valves in head number 1 and 3 exhaust valves leaking.put sparkplugs in head turned head ouver poured some diesel over valves and exhaust valves on number 1 and 3 started to dripout intake ports.so next step

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Remove all valves as fairly caked with carbon not close propper got head checked all seems fine no need to skim head was told to leave as is just clan valves and seats and new seals not too bad to remove valves new tool is brillant keeping all valves the same location and springs.only thing are new seals i have look slightly different but seem to fit over head of valve and stemseal

 

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Has anyone used these before??old one on left of pic.

Now the job af cleaning valve seats and intake ports and valves.will get more pics as i go along.

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[Jessopia74]

Newer style of stem seal. In fact you can use any stem seal from pretty much any car so long as the dimensions are the same. 
The newer seal material is better, gives a better seal but does not have the same rigidity for clamping to the stem of the valve, hence the little spring. It’s liken to the improved crank oil seals that use a long spring inside of the lip 

Edited May 6, 2023 by Jessopia74

[H-400]

I use always those Victor Reinz ones. The original ones of my "400" are yet also Victor Reinz ones, as Jess wrote I ordered a batch by dimensions.

[Michael mcinerney]

1 hour ago, H-400 said:

I use always those Victor Reinz ones. The original ones of my "400" are yet also Victor Reinz ones, as Jess wrote I ordered a batch by dimensions.

Thanks for info

Yes they look a little different but seem to fit fine.old ones feel very hard and o rings on top of valves have fell apart.what is the purpouse of the top o ring,?

Im having trouble finding front seal behind front bottom pully on crankshaft as front and rear seals are both leaking also.which i never seen both leaking at same time.

16 hours ago, Jessopia74 said:

Newer style of stem seal. In fact you can use any stem seal from pretty much any car so long as the dimensions are the same. 
The newer seal material is better, gives a better seal but does not have the same rigidity for clamping to the stem of the valve, hence the little spring. It’s liken to the improved crank oil seals that use a long spring inside of the lip 

Thanks seems to fit quite snug as old ones very hard.best get two more sets as the 2.0l and 1.9s engines may require them at some piont.

[cam.in.head]

the o ring is only used on the exhaust valve. it doeasnt have a conventional type seal like the inlets have. (later 2 litre engines had a seal on both )but not 1.6.

the o ring stops oil running down the stem so works similar to an oil seal. 

the o ring MUST be fitted into the cap from above and onto the valve stem  or it will pop out of the groove.

and yes. best not to skim if not needed. these engines rarely need it !

only ever used the seals that come with headsets so cannot comment on other designs.

[Michael mcinerney]

1 hour ago, cam.in.head said:

the o ring is only used on the exhaust valve. it doeasnt have a conventional type seal like the inlets have. (later 2 litre engines had a seal on both )but not 1.6.

the o ring stops oil running down the stem so works similar to an oil seal. 

the o ring MUST be fitted into the cap from above and onto the valve stem  or it will pop out of the groove.

and yes. best not to skim if not needed. these engines rarely need it !

only ever used the seals that come with headsets so cannot comment on other designs.

Thanks cam.in.head

All back together today.new seals and o rings fitted.

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[Michael mcinerney]

Had to take valves out again as i forgot to lap the valves and valve seats.very happy with way they came out

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slow process but well worth it.put all back together tomarrow eve and test again with some diesel poured on top of valves after reassembly 

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[Michael mcinerney]

What are the torque settings for the head bolts and degrees. I think it's 60degrees? How many settings for each head bolt I know there's a pattern sequence  any body know ?

[H-400]

been reading your posts so you'v got those reusable 12-point head bolts. 

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1: 30Nm  2: 60Nm  3: 100Nm

After 1000km (625Miles) in the sequence loosen every bolt 1/4 turn and retight 100Nm with warm engine

the 2 long ones on the front into the distribution cover 25Nm

Edited May 25, 2023 by H-400

[Michael mcinerney]

5 hours ago, H-400 said:

been reading your posts so you'v got those reusable 12-point head bolts. 

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1: 30Nm  2: 60Nm  3: 100Nm

After 1000km (625Miles) in the sequence loosen every bolt 1/4 turn and retight 100Nm with warm engine

the 2 long ones on the front into the distribution cover 25Nm

Thank you for that information. Much appreciated. Hopefully will have head back on Saturday. Been a while since I've worked on a cih engine.very straight forward engine to work on. Valves have seated nicely after lapping the valves and valve seats.poured some diesel o top of valves and nothing leaked threw.sat for over 2hrs.compared to before mainly the inlet valves that leaked after 10 min before  lapping the valves.