Jump to content

D438FHA One year on.......


Moonmonkey
 Share

Recommended Posts

Well today marks the 1 year anniversary of buying D438FHA, a 1987 Monaco Blue GT/E Exclusive. To be honest I'm not as far on with this project as I wanted to be, but thought it's about time I started a thread. I've been working away a lot, had Covid, and the return of my TVR after a 2 year rebuild have all delayed work on the Manta, but I enjoy reading other project threads so thought I would have a go at one.

I've had 7 Mantas in the 80's and 90's, all Manta B's and a variety of a Cavalier Coupe, a SR, a Berlinetta, GT/E's, a Monaco Blue 87 Exclusive and a 2.4CIH Rally Car that I campaigned for 10 - 15 years. I first saw D438FHA for sale in the December edition of Classic Car, when flying back from a half term holiday, I was in between jobs, and thought I could get it running before re-starting work in January. 

I'm the 3rd owner, the second one bought the car when it was 2 years old, and had kept it until 2021 (32 years). The car has only covered 25,170 miles and is in very good condition particularly underneath. It has been stored for over 20 years, and somebody has covered everything with spray on underseal and waxoyl. This has kept the steel in good condition but everything needs cleaning with white spirit and a kitchen scourer (more of this later). 

While the car is original and in good condition, 110bhp doesn't cut it in the 21st Century, so I have decided to modify it and make it a bit of a road going version of my 2 best previous Mantas, the Exclusive and the 2.4CIH Rally Car.

Therefore the specification I have decided on is:

2.4 CIH - New Pistons, Rods, Camshaft, Vernier, Throttle Bodies, Clutch etc

Fast road springs (450lb front & 250/180lb rear), Bilsteins, Polyurethane bushes etc

280mm Discs Wilwood 4 pot calipers, rear disc conversion (Dave Mantasrme)

Gripper plate type LSD

Speedline Marmora SL 17X7.5 with 215/40x17 tyres

I'll start posting the work to date, any tips and advice welcome.

Thanks

Moonmonkey

 

My original Exclusive

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Road Rallying a Cavalier Coupe 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

2.4CIH Rally Car

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

The new Exclusive

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

So the work started off with a bit of a general clean under the bonnet

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

I then acquired a 2.4 CIH Frontera engine (thanks Lewis P)

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Then time to drop the front suspension off. You can see how everything is just coated with underseal.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

 

Edited by Moonmonkey
Spelling and Grammar
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Front wishbones removed. On both sides the top wishbone bolt was seized into the crush tube of the bushes, requiring careful cutting through with a reciprocating saw. Bought new bolts from Tim at TJ Motorsport, who gets them from Edelschmeide so no customs hassle. Expensive bolts!

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

To clean off the underseal and debris I used a combination of a knotted wire brush on the grinder (evil), and a kitchen scourer with white spirit (time consuming). Under the underseal the original paint was like new, although chipped so a full repaint was needed.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Stub axles, and hubs cleaned.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Cross member and outriggers cleaned ready for paint

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

I took some of the underseal off the swan necks for re-assurance. Either the originals are in great condition or they've been replaced.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Edited by Moonmonkey
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

For reassembly I have bought all new bushes - polyurethane - Superpro, form TJ, and  ball joints and inner and outer track rod ends for the steering rack. I always use Autodoc for general parts, as they are pretty cheap but they also usually have a good range, so you can choose the brand you want. For example you can get Lemforder ball joints rather than whatever the local motor factors have if your willing to pay for them.

Front 450lb/inch springs from online-autosport

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

I have decided to save all of the original parts in case I want to put the car back to standard in the future, so I bought some pattern parts brake shields to modify for the big discs and Wilwood callipers rather than cutting the originals

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

280mm front discs (I'm sure they are standard Sierra Cosworth), and extended studs as I'm using a 5mm spacer to bring the off set right for the new rims. As the Wilwood callipers are American they come with a 1/8NPT thread for the brake pipe. The kit from TJ comes with an adapter to 10mm, so if you get a custom pipe made you can disconnect the brake line on the 10mm nut and leave the adapter in the calliper, so you don't risk damaging the thread in the alloy calliper body. BRT Motorsport are great for custom pressure hoses for brake lines.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

With callipers and Bilsteins fitted. I had to scrape all the paint of the hub face as the paint was to thick for the wheel to sit true!

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Finally with the wheels fitted. I spent a lot of time looking for wheels. 17 inch rims seem the best as it really difficult to get good tyres for 15 inch rims these days. I went for the Speedline Marmoras in Graphite in the end. They are 17x7.5J with a 35mm offset. Therefore if you use a 5mm spacer the offset comes back to the standard  30mm, so no issues with scrub radius. I'm running 215/40x17 Michelin Pilot Sports.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Full droop

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Under load

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Edited by Moonmonkey
  • Like 7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Episode 2

Well I have a bit of time over Christmas and New Year to get the rear sorted

I actually dropped the rear axle off on the 3rd July, but then got Covid, and the return of the TVR have taken up a lot of my spare time. A slight diversion but I had a bit of a scare on the TVR. The throttle bodies on a 4.5 ltr Cerbera are rubbish, so I had some custom manifolds made for a set of 4 x 48 twin DCOE Jenvey throttle bodies. They look really nice, but it needed some work to make a linkage and connect to the air intakes which was proving to be a pain. However rushing to get it finished I nicked an injector O ring and didn't notice before I started it up and 2 seconds later a bit of a fireball in the garage under the house🤯. Luckily I had a fire extinguisher to hand so no damage done, but a day and a half of stripping and cleaning to get all the extinguishant out of the engine bay was a pain in the ar$e, and it so abrasive I had to DA the paintwork to remove some the scratches where it had settled on the paintwork. So I've shelved that project for a while🙂

Back to the Manta, well as everything else the rear axle was covered in underseal and waxoyl. I also had one broken spring, which is no issue as I'm upgrading to fast road progressive springs (250/180 lb/in). Full spec includes a Gripper Diffs plate LSD, Bilstein shocks and a disc brake conversion. I much prefer an old fashioned plate diff rather than the Quaife gear type or Torsen viscous type. While a bit more brutal they are a lot more predictable, and confidence is worth at least a second a mile😜.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

While the underside is an awful sticky mess, it really has helped preserve the car

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Cleaned up the axle and removed the standard diff

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Edited by Moonmonkey
Grammar
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Next to fit the LSD. I decided to stick with the 3.44:1, something I may live to regret, and could be a problem as a 3.44 differential does n't fit a 3.67, 4.22 or 4.75 crown wheel. I also had a problem dropping the crown wheel on as I couldn't get it lined up before it shrank and seized on the diff. So I had to press it off and start again. I normally use boiling water for heating up the crown wheel, but took no chances the second time and stuck it in the oven at 250oC. Gave the wife a shock! I also got some long bolts to line up the holes as the mounting bolts are quite short. (note just using the press as a workbench to hold it while I get it all lined up, it was hot!)

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Diff reinstalled and axle painted

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Half shafts with long studs and rear disc conversion brackets fitted

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Edited by Moonmonkey
Spelling
  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rear discs fitted, Sportspro polyurethane bushes and all the other suspension arms torque tube etc painted

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

More cleaning during reassembly. I actually thought the seat platform rubbers were badly deteriorated and would need replacing, but a bit of cleaning and they are like new. The bolts were similar, the heads had rusted, but pretty much all the plating still intact, not bad for a 36 year old car.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Axle back on and Bilsteins/springs installed

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Brakes bled, and the car back on all 4 wheels for the first time in a year or so.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Next steps, new Sportex exhaust as the old one has badly corroded internals (the silencers were virtually full of rusted steel dust), clean the fuel pump, fuel lines and replace all the flexibles fuel pipes. Then a full service, DA polish, fresh fuel and a MOT.

Hoping to be on the road by March as have a touring assemble planned. It will be good to have a run out, the first in over 20 years🙂

  • Like 7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi evo03

LSD is from Gripper Diffs, basically a ZF type plate diff. They will custom build so I've gone a half way between road and race preload. They are very helpful, and have rebuilt a few LSDs off the rally cars. Website:- is gripperlsd.com

Couldn't face removing all the underseal/waxoyl off the underside of the body so replacing like for like. I'll keep the mechanicals painted.

Need to touch up the paintwork and polish. Its got some staining on the roof so hope it will polish out. May have to get it resprayed if not

Once I get it back on the road, I'll start rebuilding the 2.4cih I've got sat in the corner of the garage by the fridge🙂

 

Edited by Moonmonkey
Spelling
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

So, got a bit more time on the Manta this week. Started replacing the old fuel hoses with some new SAE30JR9 hose, having just had a fuel injection fire on the TVR a useful precaution😉, and just in case the Super Unleaded has some Ethanol in it.

Fuel pump covered in waxoyl/underseal, so all removed for clean and paint. Two of the bobbins had failed so replaced those as well.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

 

Next was the Sportex exhaust, these seem to be the cheapest and easiest exhaust to get these days however I can't say I was impressed with the tail pipe. I know the Japanese tuning world has moved everybody into ridiculously large tailpipes, but I didn't think it looked right on a 1980's car driven by someone the wrong side of 50. Back in the day a 2 inch exhaust was an upgrade (I only had 2.5 on the rally car), and the rest of the system is only 2 inch in any case. I would rather be all trousers and no show😜

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Did a trial fit  and mocked up a 2 inch pipe for comparison

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

So off with the big end and replaced with a universal 2 inch Jetex stainless pipe for Advantage Motorsport which is just round the corner. Just need to cut to length and knock up a hanger for the tailpipe

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

However as ever something else went wrong. Just trying to start for the first time in over a year, and found the steel petrol pipe had split in the jacking point! 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Decided to replace the steel pipe with some 5/16 Kunifer (Copper/Nickel) far easier to work with than steel, and not going to rust. However when I checked my "vintage" Sykes Pickavant 230M flaring tool kit I only had dies for 3/16 and 1/4😠 Seems impossible to get new dies for such an old tool, so just bought a cheapo off Amazon.

So while waiting for the kit to arrive decided to do a bit of body work. There was a strange film/ marking on the roof, not sure what it was but an hour with the DA, a firm pad and some Autoglym Rapid Renovator Plus sorted it.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Note the mark on the paintwork near the sunroof is actually a reflection of the light sensor on the garage roof. (God knows why the builders install these, had to disconnect it as the lights would go off the minute you got under a car. Some people actually like to spend a long time in their garage🙂)

Finally one for Jonathan, whose advice when I bought the car was "The first thing I would tackle is removing the black from under the rear bumper!",  I've eventually got round to cleaning it off. I'm not sure why this was done but somebody has done a very professional job, its under the bumper, and very neatly done. While its messy removing it I can't really knock it as all this underseal and waxoyl has kept the body work fairly rust free except for a few rust spots starting to bubble on the roof and bonnet. TBH it just cleaned off with white spirit and a kitchen sponge to leave some nice Monaco Blue paint. I'll need to get it resprayed at some point but focusing on mechanicals first.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

So just a few jobs left so hoping for a MOT next week. I have therefore had a chat with CVI to get it back insured and have a good price with an agreed value based on 6 photographs, so thank you Ian and Tom.

Edited by Moonmonkey
Spelling
  • Like 6
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, Moonmonkey said:

So, got a bit more time on the Manta this week. Started replacing the old fuel hoses with some new SAE30JR9 hose, having just had a fuel injection fire on the TVR a useful precaution😉, and just in case the Super Unleaded has some Ethanol in it.

Fuel pump covered in waxoyl/underseal, so all removed for clean and paint. Two of the bobbins had failed so replaced those as well.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

 

Next was the Sportex exhaust, these seem to be the cheapest and easiest exhaust to get these days however I can't say I was impressed with the tail pipe. I know the Japanese tuning world has moved everybody into ridiculously large tailpipes, but I didn't think it looked right on a 1980's car driven by someone the wrong side of 50. Back in the day a 2 inch exhaust was an upgrade (I only had 2.5 on the rally car), and the rest of the system is only 2 inch in any case. I would rather be all trousers and no show😜

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Did a trial fit  and mocked up a 2 inch pipe for comparison

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

So off with the big end and replaced with a universal 2 inch Jetex stainless pipe for Advantage Motorsport which is just round the corner. Just need to cut to length and knock up a hanger for the tailpipe

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

The Waxoyl on the pump and filter looked a real mess but it did a good job of protecting it - it’s cleaned up like new!

Thanks for removing it Roger. I’ll sleep well tonight knowing it gone 😁

  • Haha 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Jonathan, it was a bit of a risk as I thought it may be hiding something but no problems underneath. I agree it looks much better, without the black and even better when polished with the DA.

The bigger issue is the previous owner has painted the gap above the rear lights and back infill panel with black paint. Will have to see if I can cut it back to blue! I may have to take the lights and panel off to get at it!
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Moonmonkey said:

Thanks Jonathan, it was a bit of a risk as I thought it may be hiding something but no problems underneath. I agree it looks much better, without the black and even better when polished with the DA.

The bigger issue is the previous owner has painted the gap above the rear lights and back infill panel with black paint. Will have to see if I can cut it back to blue! I may have to take the lights and panel off to get at it!
 

Weird why it was done, as you say it’s usually to hide something nasty 😬 But perhaps it’s helped protect it anyway

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just at the MOT station waiting for the test. Typically the horn stopped working this morning😥😥😥🤞🤞🤞🤞

Just done the first 11 miles on the road in 20 years. Never remember the driving position be so knees up behind the steering wheel!

  • Haha 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Passed 😊 Great fun on a short run out to the MOT, and not as sluggish as I thought compared to modern stuff, but then probably only 70% of the weight

Will tax it tomorrow for the sake of a day.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Edited by Moonmonkey
  • Like 8
Link to comment
Share on other sites

no theyre quite small in the great scheme of things.

they do look low thou especially when parked in a row of modern crap.

people have said to me many a time 'is your car lowered ?'  is it hell i say its supposed to be like that. and thats with acav with std springs and nice wheelarch gaps !

i remember years ago thinking the omega was quite a big car but thats not either realy.parked next to thecav its only a bit longer .

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...