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1980 Berlinetta Coupe 2.0SR


Kr1s
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Well, I finally got to see and work on my Dad's Manta today.

Got it running after putting oil through the plug holes and turning over by hand.

Then I changed the engine oil.

Tomorrow I'll check that all the brake parts are moving freely. Before going far I'll get the hoses checked and fluid changed.

The original alloys are here, but could do with a refurb and new tyres.

Condition wise, it's not the best I'd hoped, but not the worst I'd feared either. The bodywork and paint are very good with only very small spots of rust beginning to show in a couple of places.

Underneath it's not quite as good, with a fair bit of surface rust on the front cross member, and I'm not sure whether it'll need welding at the back of the swan neck (see photos).

Altogether not a bad day, and I'm still thinking it may be worth getting sorted and keeping hold of.

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Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

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That looks solid compared to some I’ve seen. I would give her a good run, even if that’s just sat on the driveway. Make sure all the fluids are topped up and watch the temperature. If she runs nicely and there are no leaks top up the tank and pump up the tires and go for an mot.

She’ll likely fail but you’ll know what you need to invest to get safely on the road. If you are lucky you may be able to do a rolling restoration, tackling jobs as time and money allow but enjoying driving around at the same time. You could come and see me or we could meet at The West Meon Hut or Loomies!

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Nice project, they are easy cars to work on and can be split into sections at a time. Plenty of knowledge on here, and helpful advise. 

Swan neck is fine in that section shown in photo, the jacking point joint, it will be spot welded originally. 

Subframe can be dropped out and blasted, approx £50, either support body, and hold engine with crane or a bay bar.  

It can all be dropped out in sizeable manageable sections. 

There are tips to do each section, example, removing one side of front suspension arms at a time, all quite manageable will minimal tools. 

But overall looks quite good, and has kept very well. The body where the under guard has let go, needs attention, there are products out there, Built hamber, Granville rust converter, and products to protect for future. 

Also the Haynes manual is quite useful. 

All in all quite a basic easy to work on car, unlike modern tin boxes. 

Read a nice quote recently, cars where once build by engineers, now designers design cars to frustrate engineers. 

 

Edited by ®evo03
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If you look on lrish blue l have stripped the front suspension of ,replace top,lower ball joints anit roll bar bush's

The underside of the manta was covered in light rust ,looking like your one 

Clean, painted the suspension parts looking good 

Mine is a 1988 manta,but it will be similar 

Edited by 1200bandit
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as above. nice easy cars to work on. most areas easy to get to . some awkward maintenance bits like clutch adjustment,oil switch,and front exhaust bolts .

plenty of advice on this or repairs etc.

most service bits readily available on our favorite site !

dont replace good useable gm bits with aftermarketstuff as a matter of course because as we have discovered ,rubber components are not as good as they used to be. gm rubber is usually very good quality !

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1st I've seen that style, initially thought they where hub cap without the cap, 

They maybe spacers for rostyle wheels?  

Those wheels fitted are from a 1.8 carb model. 

Your car would look nice with ATS classics.

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Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Edited by ®evo03
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Yes, I have the full set of these that belong with that car - as you say, the ones on it at the moment are from a 1.8 GT I had many years ago.

What I wasn't sure was whether those spacers are required when using the original wheels, and whether there should be another two of them somewhere.

Cheers!

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Today I established that both front calipers are moving freely, although was a little disappointed to find that it has single piston, sliding calipers - for some reason I was thinking a 1980 model would have proper, dual piston ones.

I also freed off the adjusters on the off-side rear drum, but then found that the slave cylinder is firmly seized. It appears new ones are not expensive, so I will get both sides replaced when I send the car to have the pipes checked and fluid changed. (I couldn't easily access the near side one today, so called it a day at that).

I think the next thing will be to get the car taken to the garage for said work on the brakes (at the moment it's still at my dad's place in Lincolnshire, so I can only work on it on my rare visits), and an MoT.

Watch this space!

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hi. yes around 79-80 is when the dreaded sliding sleeve calipers  came in and continued to be used on various gm cars till mid 80's

change to early style is a better option. mountings all same just req different hoses and pads but a much better design.

theoretically the sliding piston idea is good.but in practice not so as the sliding sleeves regularly seize up !

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