Guest Posted February 1, 2008 Share Posted February 1, 2008 Ouch that sounds uber painful. I can imagine how difficult it must be at times to keep going, I feel like that about my house which hasn't been even decorated in about 50 years. Chin up, it'll be worth it in the end [] OMOC Member 6144 1982 1800 Manta Berlinetta Coupe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny D114BCW Posted February 1, 2008 Share Posted February 1, 2008 Hi Dan, i know what you mean, just leave it for a few month, uyou will get the spark back as i have had 4 months from mine and now i am getting back on it. Get it done! or watch manta magic and get to a pub meet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulmanta Posted February 1, 2008 Share Posted February 1, 2008 Crack on and get a new proper update in this section, you are as bad as me [][] (My excuse is that the 3 main projects will all be ready around the same time, its not a good excuse though) "Looking out at the road rushing under my wheels" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 1, 2008 Share Posted February 1, 2008 bloody 'ell I had a finger nail ripped a few years ago. Still makes me shudder thinking about it. OMOC 5885 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 (edited) Deleted Edited September 27, 2017 by mantadoc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welder Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 Dan. Don't give up with the car mate. I saw it at Tatton a few years back and thought it was the dogs wotsits. If I can lend a hand with anything, get in touch. Publicity Officer Frustrated rock legend polishing-services@hotmail.co.uk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 quote:Originally posted by mantadoc id="quote">id="quote"> Was that me?[] No warranty implied or given [] New shorter posts to minimise global warming by conserving ones and zeros [] The uncivilized end of the North West [] Other rust buckets are available such as http://www.chevettes.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12922 Dann Merino should definitely buy one of these. Well not this one..... id="quote">id="quote">in the words of hong kong phooey, COULD BE! based in crewe , cheshire Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
i240 Dan Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 Don't worry yourselfs. The car will get done. Just depends on when. The situation as it stands now is, the shell is 99% finished. Just need to get the front pannels back on and check I'm happy with the alignment of everything. And I'm going to seam weld the chassis rails to the floor down each side at the front for a bit of extra strength. I've lifted the following from another page on the Forums I wrote. ********************************************************************** So my basic plan is this. Have my shell sand blasted. Try and clean and hoover out all the sand etc Spray the whole shell with POR-15 Metal Ready. Wash off Spray whole shell with Etch Primer. Seam Seal Spray underside with 3M Anti-Chip FLat finish coating. Spray whole shell with high solids 2 pack polar white paint. Having the doors and boot lid baked clean of all paint and then anti corrosion dipped. They will then get the same etch primer and paint. Hang the doors, bootlid and fibreglass wings, bonnet, rear arches and bumpers. Spray again with 2 pack. The suspension I'm having what I can dipped and powder coated. The rear axle will get stripped with the wire wheel, metal ready, POR-15 rust prevention paint and chassis coat black. I've already got the paint and etch primer. I will be buying soon:- Metal Ready - 2 Gallons POR 15 Rust Prevention Paint - 1 litre POR 15 Chassis Coat Black - 1 litre Dinitrol Corromax 3125 - 5 litres Dinitrol ML Cavity Wax - 1 litre Dinitrol Wax Gun Seam Sealer Windscreen Sealer When looking at different stone chip products it seems to get confusing. I always understood Shutz to be a brush on tar like substance which doesn't really set hard. And stone chip to be a hard dry rubber coating. But looking at the 3M page below they seems to describe stone chip as Shutz. http://solutions9.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/ ... H9W13WN4gl I think what I want is the 3M Smooth Anti-Chip Coating Any comments welcome, I'm only really going of what others have reccomended as I've never done a full restro before. Can anyone tell me whether it's best seam seal before or after etch priming? Dan ********************************************************************** The shell will only be getting blasted once I'm back from Australia in April when hopefully the weather might be a bit dryer. Then it's just a case of assembly of the suspension with all the new bushes. Clean up the engine and gearbox. Get those put together with all the bits I've been amassing inc i240 custom solutions heat shield. I'm still working on what I'm going to do about the heater, where I'm going to mount my ECU, the locking system as I want to get rid of the exterior barrel locks and internal door sliders. Go electric with it all but still have a backup to be able to get into the car and boot. Sort the electric window mechanisms. The interior will be black and white leather seats, door cards, black headlining. I need to get hold of a full black dash, I'm sure that someone at the NW pub meet had one that I said I'd buy from him. I'm pretty sure it was Neil but I've not been for ages. Hope he's still got it. If anyone's got Neil's number and mine could they text it to me, don't think he checks the forum. Need to sort out some 16v calipers for the front, get some copper tube and make all the lines. Get hold of a rear disk conversion kit from Kev and Gary. So loads of stuff to think about, speaker pods in the doors, boot lining, sound proofing on the floors, exhaust system the list goes on. The basics of the car once it's sprayed sould come together fairly quickly but I want to spend time getting the interior, bells and whistles right. Dan Member: 5612 http://www.mantaclub.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6321 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbie Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 SHUTZ could be called anti chip but don't buy it make sure you get stone chip, water always gets under shutz. they should shoot the makers of that shiit. I like the plan Dan [^] http://www.mantamagic.com OMOC N,Ireland Rep id="blue"> OMOC 5706 A Series 16V Broadspeed Turbo Replica, V8 A series, I240 Please dont shoot me it,s only an opinion not a demand Email robbie @ mantamagic.com (without the spaces) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
i240 Dan Posted February 13, 2008 Share Posted February 13, 2008 Had a chat with Niel and he's got the dash for me and is keeping hold of it till I'm in need of it. Managed to get the front sub frame apart last night. Need to get all the bits together for paint stripping. My new subframe should be on it's way from Germany to me. Managed to get the new rubber bushes out of my new upper wishbones to be replaced by poly ones very easily. Goig to try the lower wishbones tonight and start to strip the rear axle down too. If I get time I'll take the electric window motors and manta mechanisms home and see if I can work out how to fit them together over my tea Can't decide whether to get the suspension parts powder coated or to paint them myself. The new wishbones which are powder coated but have chips and scratches so I'll need to coat them with something before they go on. Most of the parts would nees threads etc taping up before powder coating as well. I think I might as well just go the Rust Prevention Chassis Coat route with all of the under car components. I would like to have the 16v rocker cover and power cap stripped and powder coated white. Think the rocker is blue and the irmscher cap came in bright Red. Might get the spark plug cover done in yellow. The wheels will be getting done white at the same time. I was looking at the boot lock mechanism last night. I want to get rid of the lock and go electric. The easiest way is going to be to swap it round so that the mechanism is in the body and the catch is in the lid. More fun. Dan Member: 5612 http://www.mantaclub.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6321 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Abbott Posted February 13, 2008 Share Posted February 13, 2008 Keep going Dan, For delocking the boot, use a lock mech from mk2 cav saloon, same as manta ones but it has an added latch arm to suit the solenoid boot pop that by luck has it is also fitted to the cavalier and to top it off it has an under dash pop switch and wiring all fitted in the cav too, the solenoid fits between the inner and outer skins on the boot lid so you can trim it up to keep it neat. If you need to see some manta winder mechs fitted with electric motors then give me a shout too, i got some off mickappy that work great. Kev Many A Night Tinkering About OMOC 4076 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
i240 Dan Posted February 13, 2008 Share Posted February 13, 2008 Cheers Kev I remember you mentioning the Cav set up to me before. It sounds like a good idea, my only problem with it would be I want to have a manual cable release running to the latch too. Just incase I loose power or the solenoid stops working I don't have to get the grinder out and cut through my boot lid. Thought it would be easier to run the wiring and a cable to a catch in the back pannel rather than the boot lid. I have got some window motors from a mk3 Cav after reading a thread on here, I'm sure there was an article in a past Manta Magic about using Mk3 Cav motors on the Manta mechanism. I've just had a flick through my copies but can't see it now. It's also mentioned in this thread, by entwistlecymru. Just found it. http://www.mantaclub.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=5666 Not sure if it was entwistlecymru that wrote the article I remeber reading in the mag. That link I've put also has the ones your talking about Kev. Did you make them yourself or have MickAppy make them for you? I'll have a look at the Cav motors and manta mechanisms and see how I go. I'll give you a ring if it doesn't work out Kev. Dan Member: 5612 http://www.mantaclub.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6321 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Abbott Posted February 13, 2008 Share Posted February 13, 2008 Hi Dan Mickappy got the mechs already done from ebay so don't know the history, i tried some mechs using calibra motors and the small mk3 granada motors and couldn't make them work in the space but the ones of Mick are great and wind up like proper windows, not like they do when you get one that works off the existing winder handle. Burrrrrrrr no window up, burrrr still no window up etc. You can add a cable to the cav release too and route it up the boot hinge, in fact a manta bonnet cable works great and fits in a hole just behind the side of the rear seat so you can't see it and it's secure.[] Many A Night Tinkering About OMOC 4076 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
i240 Dan Posted February 20, 2008 Share Posted February 20, 2008 How many kg's of 3m stone chip will I need to cover the underside of my car front to back? Also, do I have to buy one if their applicator guns? Dan Member: 5612 http://www.mantaclub.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6321 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shuviteer Posted February 20, 2008 Share Posted February 20, 2008 As a recent new member, I've just read this from the begining.Much respect to you fella.[]. There is no way I would have the patience or skill to do what you have achieved with this project. Everyone can be better, but only one can be the best. OMOC member 6147 I'm from Batley (nr. Leeds ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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