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What do ya reckon? Fastest Manta around?


h0tr0dder_uk
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Engine puts out about 800bhp on unleaded so should put it in the very low 10, high 9 second quarters. Then once I've stopped sh1tt1ng myself and got used to the power I should be able to safely put another 200bhp through (with NOS).

BTW - its going to be a fully street legal and driven car[:D][:D][:D]

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h0tr0dder, I think 20 mpg may be a tad optimistic on an 8.2 supercharged engine[:)]

But I think we all know that petrol consumption never really enters the equation, well it does in the format of "Tank size/Fuel weight/Range/consumption"

I guess what I should have said was that the fuel cost never enters the equation.

It costs whatever it costs to go fast.

Simply can't wait to see this in the flesh[:P][:P][:P]

V8 'B' series Manta coupe.

SEH 'B' series Manta Coupe.

CIH 'B' series Manta hatch (daily drive) soon to be turbo'd.

http://www.customsolutions.me.uk

perhaps one day then.

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gear ratio is also important. haven't gone to mad (3.25 to 1) so should be doing 2400rpm at 70mph and have a theoretical top speed of 170mph (shouldn't need more than that).

check out john sleaths web site for info on the cars he has built - he is a great source of parts and information for my car.

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found a photo last night of the old Pollen Count Manta hatch, taken at Santa Pod many years ago.

It was in my collection of Manta pics at the pub meet, always wondered where it had gone.

Will get it scanned and put on here later.

V8 'B' series Manta coupe.

SEH 'B' series Manta Coupe.

CIH 'B' series Manta hatch (daily drive) soon to be turbo'd.

http://www.customsolutions.me.uk

perhaps one day then.

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My friend had a supercharged 7.5 litre chevy engine in his car and it was easily the quickest car I had ever been in. Couldn't stop grinning for a week. I promised myself I would own an engine like that one day. When it came up for sale though I didn't have the money. My friend wanted me to put it in the Anglia pictured above, but being a short narrow car it wouldn't be as stable as I would have liked. A couple of years passed and I sold my Anglia and bought my engine - an 8.2 litre chevy engine with an 8/71 supercharger, found the old pollen count chassis and am now in the process of putting it all together.

Once I've got used to the power I have a few other mods to make more power (like lower compression pistons, nitrous oxide injection and an intercooler).

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It just took me 4 hours to get that bloody pic up. installed the scanner software and this GRRRR DAMN pc crashed (windows file corrupted/missing) only just got all hardware installed again and everything sorted, including a new ftp program, so enjoy the pic, i'm off to work

V8 'B' series Manta coupe.

SEH 'B' series Manta Coupe.

CIH 'B' series Manta hatch (daily drive) soon to be turbo'd.

http://www.customsolutions.me.uk

perhaps one day then.

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quote:Originally posted by h0tr0dder_uk

what wrong with a tubbed car on the motorway? owned this van for 8 years and drove it everywhere, inc Belgium

Van.jpg


id="quote">id="quote">

have you still this van...one here in ireland similar to it..he's also into the hot rod scene...

1985 i200

1985 i240 Replica

1985 gte

LOOKING FOR A GENIUNE 400

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No - I sold it to finance this manta. I really miss that van though. It was the most fun you could have with your clothes on.

The one in ireland is very similar, except it has a 1700 cross flow in it. Currently up for sale and an absolute bargain. Wouldn't mind it myself, but can't afford another car.

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quote:Originally posted by h0tr0dder_uk

No - I sold it to finance this manta. I really miss that van though. It was the most fun you could have with your clothes on.

The one in ireland is very similar, except it has a 1700 cross flow in it. Currently up for sale and an absolute bargain. Wouldn't mind it myself, but can't afford another car.


id="quote">id="quote">

ya its 4 sale for the 12 months...think the price tag is throwing people off... was half tempted myself...did yu see his sweet minor...

1985 i200

1985 i240 Replica

1985 gte

LOOKING FOR A GENIUNE 400

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  • 5 months later...
  • 5 weeks later...

OK - got the A series to a point where it can live on the drive so its time to start on the Pro street B series.

First up is some complicated sh1t. I need to change it from lhd to rhd. Only problem is the steering geometry looks wrong.

Here a pic of it now

rack006.jpg

As you can see the rack is too wide and probably too high. Heres a simple drawing of what it looks like

steering-geometrymine.jpg

As you can see the lines don't meet. They should all intersect like in this pic

steering-geometryright.jpg

I've got a book coming that explains it more clearly so I'll get some proper dimensions.

wish me luck!!!

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I think the problem your trying to avoid is bump stear,that is when due to the position,diamentions and/or attachment points of the stearing rack,the wheel changes the direction it is pointing with no mvement of the stearing wheel as the suspension moves up and down over bumps.

On an ordinary Manta front suspension with top and bottom suspension arms the track rod end position is just above the hieght of the lower suspension arm with the rack positioned on the crossmember at the same hieght above the lower arm,with the track rod being the same lenght as the lower suspension arm this means they swing through the same arc and stay parallel to each other as the suspension goes up and down over bumps thus the wheel doesn't change direction other than from inputs from the stearing wheel.

On strut front suspension the effect of the latteral (sideways)wheel movement is lessend because although the bottom arm still swings through an arc,thus at the exreem ends of its travel will draw the bottom of the hub towards the center car,the top of the strut is fixed at one point so the suspension rises up and down along a near vertical line.the stearing rack can be placed in more than one position.

On front wheel drive Vauxhalls the rack is placed high on the baulkhead with the stearing arm coming off the strut above the hieght of the wheel,Vauxhalls must have calculated that with the stearing attaching this high up the strut that there would be negligible latteral movement (caused by the arc of the lower arm)thus the track rods didn't have to be dimensionally and positionally relative to the rest of the suspension.The track rods are infact as long as possible,attaching to the center of the stearing rack so as thier ends travel through the largest arc possible thus minimising any Bump Stear from them.

Looking at your drawings,the top ones shows that the current arrangement has the track rods shorter than the lower arm of the suspension,this would lead to bump stear,as the suspension is compressed the shorter track rod swings trough a tighter radius than the lower suspension arm,thus,particulary at extreems of travel,the track rod will have a greater latteral (sideways)movement than the suspension arm so turning the wheel slightly reguardless of any movement of the stearing wheel.

The lower drawing of your proposed changes would overcome the problems with the current arrangement except i think the track should be parallel with the bottom arm.As it is at present you have three lines all neatly converging at one imaginary point,but this will only happen at one suspension position,compress the suspension and the line through the track rod will fall below the line through the lower suspension arm.with them not being parallel there might be a tiny amount of bump stear at maximum suspension travel.the line you have drawn from the top of the suspension down through the pivot point of the lower arm has no relevance as this only coincides with the inner end of the track rod at one stearing position.

I think for the suspension and rack to work with minimum bump stear firstly the track rod must be same lenght as the lower arm (hence the width of the rack will have to be the same as the distance between the lower suspension arm pivot points)Secondly the rack will have to be the same hieght above the lower suspension arm pivot points as the stearing arm on the hub is above the lower ball joint,so as the track rod and the lower arm remain parallel through the whole travel of the suspension.

One way of trying out various arrangements without having to modify the suspension itself is to build a scale model of it in cardboard.it only needs to be two dimensional,perhaps using drawing pins at pivot points,some facing upwards others pinning the componants to a piece of card.start with the suspension at maximum extension and draw a line along the center line of the wheel,move the suspension to maximum compression and again draw a line along the center line of the wheel,if these lines are parallel then there shouldn't be any bump stear with that particular supension arragement.

This has been a bit of a waffle but i have some knowledge of suspension and this is how i understand it and i hope have managed to convey that understanding.

I've got piles of all sorts of Manta parts,i might even have something you need!

surplus parts bought,whole cars considerd. M/B 07947 640505

OMOC Member number 2658F

Ian Virco,area rep,Beds Herts and North Bucks.

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It might sounds like a waffle, but I understand what you are saying. I am currently picking everyones brains and doing research to work out what is best. I had a good look at some race cars this weekend and their steering wouldn't suit street cars. As one guy said you don't worry about bump steer on a drag car as there aren't any pot holes on the race track. That probably explains why mine is the way it is. I will try and get it set up to minimise the bump steer as it is mainly going to be a street car with the occasional race.

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