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1976 B series coupe. General work continues “project zero”


Sutty2006
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1 hour ago, ®evo03 said:

Should the adjuster be inside the slot on shoe? I'm not sure, just noticed it.

I think only one of my Mantas has this setup and was a bollocks to setup. But once set, nice setup. 

The only thing that’s wrong here is the top spring should be behind the handbrake lever not infront. I found this out by stripping the captains side. I thought it looked odd, but rebuilt it as removed. 
 

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took about 4 minutes to rebuild this side. Is so easy! 
 

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while I’m here, it’s time to replace the shocker but the bottom pin wouldn’t slide out. So the angle grinder helped out. 
 

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had to split the bottom off, remove the bush and then split the metal sleeve

 

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and the new shocker is on! 
 

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cannot see the pics but in a normal std setup it certainly shouldnt . its purely a stop post to adjust to as the shoes wear and stops them having excess movement . the handbrake   also needs adjusting too regardless of the actual vauxhall workshop manual that states otherwise !

unlike the fully auto adjusters on later mantas and carltons 

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9 hours ago, cam.in.head said:

cannot see the pics but in a normal std setup it certainly shouldnt . its purely a stop post to adjust to as the shoes wear and stops them having excess movement . the handbrake   also needs adjusting too regardless of the actual vauxhall workshop manual that states otherwise !

unlike the fully auto adjusters on later mantas and carltons 

Can’t see any adjustment for the handbrake other than the horse shoe on the cables in the centre of the body. 

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No, I did mine a few weeks ago and with the slot in the shoe being where it is suggests otherwise, the adjuster simply contacts the edge. I think the Opel designers were just having a giggle, much like when they located the springs for the same 🤨

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2 hours ago, Metalbasher said:

I think the Opel designers were just having a giggle, much like when they located the springs for the same 🤨

 

Maybe experimenting with less material, less weight. Maybe I should get my drill out. 😂

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I’ve been looking into getting all the dash lights working. 
 

the handbrake warning light was a tricky one. Turns out it doesn’t have low fluid warning so I’m on the hunt for an old contactless cap now. 
 

but light still doesn’t work. I poked and prodded a bit. There is a “high clutch warning” switch, which if pressed, the lamp illuminates! 
 

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so I know the dash side of things work. 
 

so it works on sending 12v down the single wire to handbrake switch. 12v present at the plug in the dash, so the earth is missing. Earthed the wire to the dash and the light illuminated. 
 

now I test the wire down to the switch. Circuit ok. The only thing left in the circuit is the switch. I took the lever mechanism out and tested the switch. Nothing. 
 

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it’s pretty crusty in here. 
 

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I wanted to see if I could clean the contacts up. But inevitably, some of it fell to bits. 
 

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im 87.664% certain I have another switch up at my unit. Could be wrong but I’ll go n check anyway. 

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  • Sutty2006 changed the title to 1976 B series coupe. General work continues
7 hours ago, Jessopia74 said:

Sure you could make up a little bracket to carry a micro switch instead to do same task

Are there any micro switches available that would earth through the main body? 

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4 hours ago, Sutty2006 said:

Are there any micro switches available that would earth through the main body? 

Just put an earth from COM(common) lead on it with small ring back to a mounting bolt or other convenient place will do that.

Something like https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/micro-switches/6990574 and just solder a short wire with a spade, and one with a ring terminal on. 

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I finally got the brakes bled up last night, after having to reflare 3 connections (one in the master and both rear cylinders). While it was up in the air, I adjusted the clutch and then dropped it off the stands. 
 

I left it running for 10 minutes to check the temp gauge works and it does. Result. 

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Still a lot to do though, but this is a milestone. This car hasn’t moved under its own power in over 35 years. 

 

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15 minutes ago, Jessopia74 said:

Big moment then 😎👍 More importantly it definitely makes things easier to move about.

Yeah I’ve been threatening to brush that floor for weeks 🤣

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48 minutes ago, spiney_norman said:

MOTd and ready for Sywell then? 😉

I wish. I’ve got 16 years worth of teething issues now. 
 

Need to set the carb up because it bogs down a little when I accelerate off the mark. 
 

timing needs fine tuning. 
rocker cover gasket is crap and pissing oil out. 
need to get all the lights working good, refit interior, sort out dash wiring, re position rear panel and weld in place. Fit bumpers, wipers, washer bottle 🤣 got lots to do! 

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Sorry Steve, slow reply to your unidentified cables question. A couple of photos of mine, around the washer bottle. The spares off the bottle itself are redundant on mine as standard, I think someone said they’re the headlight wash connection. The second photo of a connection I think connects to the oil pressure sensor, there’s a heat resistant wire got to be added, that reaches the sensor. The other cable shown (green & blue) I have no idea yet, again I think it’s redundant but welcome any advice.

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Edited by Metalbasher
Schoolboy spelling mistake
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Washers for headlights do have a solenoid near washer bottle so only operates when headlights are on.

Green should be Tacho, but think that breaks out the loom near coil on carb cars. Could be for ballast fitted vehicles though as it’s not a solid green?

 

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  • 1 month later...


 

It’s made. 
 

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it’ll do 

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The biggest problem after that was fitting it to the front panel. Some of the old lamp bracket was still attached but the chaps that rebuild the front end over 12 years ago haven’t measured or placed anything in where it’s supposed to go. So I measured the bulb to ground distance and fitted it there. 
 

ignore the pidgeon shit, it’s strong and it’ll do the job.

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Did you lose the dimensions I sent you? LOL, Glad it came in useful in the end. The other side should be easier as that was off a NOS panel. Think I may have the remains of it in the garage if you want me to double check the position.

 

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3 hours ago, Vince said:

Did you lose the dimensions I sent you? LOL, Glad it came in useful in the end. The other side should be easier as that was off a NOS panel. Think I may have the remains of it in the garage if you want me to double check the position.

 

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On the drivers side yes, but not on the passenger side as there has been a lot of welding down that end and where an old bracket has been removed, it’s too low. So I’ve had to make do. 

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  • Sutty2006 changed the title to 1976 B series coupe. General work continues “project zero”

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