Simon Dobbo Posted Thursday at 09:01 Share Posted Thursday at 09:01 My mate is a mechanic and his little village garage has a spray booth. Sadly his painter has retired and he is not replacing him at the moment. Geoff - the painter always said its all in the preparation - the spraying is easy and iff you lay it out even enough and thick enough then is all about the flatting back and polishing. I have seen him go through a new paint job with a polishing machine and have to do it again. 😂 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted Thursday at 09:56 Share Posted Thursday at 09:56 1 hour ago, Sutty2006 said: To be honest, I’m quite tempted to prep it then roller it. Seen it done on a Dutch manta in satin black and it looked sprayed 🤣 might buy the paint, and nip down to B n Q for some throw away rollers. 🤣 got to look better than it does now right? It will be Better than the rubber crap thst was on my Black coupe when I got it! When I was still at school, I had a part time job in a bus depot cleaning. But I was there on evenings and got to see loads of the different activities. They used to paint the busses with rollers and brushes and they never had any strokes when it dried. Ofc it’s more industrial type paint application, but we do seem to get a fairly good finish in the offshore industry with similar application methods. The advantage or disadvantages is thicker paint layers per coat. I guess you could just flat it back and polish it too as the thickness would be there too. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRealExile Posted Thursday at 11:25 Share Posted Thursday at 11:25 2 hours ago, Sutty2006 said: To be honest, I’m quite tempted to prep it then roller it. Seen it done on a Dutch manta in satin black and it looked sprayed 🤣 might buy the paint, and nip down to B n Q for some throw away rollers. 🤣 got to look better than it does now right? I still remember my mates Dad swore by rollering, he used to paint tanks in the army for a living mind, he used to get a tidy shine rollering his cars. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutty2006 Posted Thursday at 12:35 Author Share Posted Thursday at 12:35 Challenge accepted. 2 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted Thursday at 13:04 Share Posted Thursday at 13:04 (edited) Guns and compressors are good too 🤣. It's very rare a paint job doesn't get machine mopped nowadays. Even some new BMWs are not good, orange peel effect. Especially dark colours. I got a quote recently for two plastic bumpers £1500. Materials cost, high build primer £20, base £35 and clear, £15. Big difference. £1400 labour, ÷ by a generous 8 hrs. £175 per hour 🤡 🤯 Edited Thursday at 13:12 by ®evo03 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted Thursday at 13:20 Share Posted Thursday at 13:20 Owatrol oil is used if not using clear coat. On original, sanded paint. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutty2006 Posted Thursday at 15:58 Author Share Posted Thursday at 15:58 Is that oil something you mix into the paint? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted Thursday at 16:47 Share Posted Thursday at 16:47 48 minutes ago, Sutty2006 said: Is that oil something you mix into the paint? No, it's put on old paint, to reserve it. Rat looks etc, old American trucks, etc. It's like WD40, with a sticky residue. Wouldn't put it on if you are considering painting, as it would react, if every trace is not removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutty2006 Posted Thursday at 16:48 Author Share Posted Thursday at 16:48 Just now, ®evo03 said: No, it's put on old paint, to reserve it. Rat looks etc, old American trucks, etc. It's like WD40, with a sticky residue. Wouldn't put it on if you are considering painting, as it would react, if every trace is not removed. Yeah I don’t think I’ll use that then. The amount of dust we get around here would ruin it. Need something washable on a regular basis if I ever plan on ploughing it into everyday use in the summer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutty2006 Posted Friday at 10:29 Author Share Posted Friday at 10:29 @mantasrme have you rolled a paint job before? What process/paint did you use? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantasrme Posted Saturday at 08:21 Share Posted Saturday at 08:21 21 hours ago, Sutty2006 said: @mantasrme have you rolled a paint job before? What process/paint did you use? I have done 2 cars with rollering the paint on, both rally cars. I used Rustoleum and the small 4" foam rollers. Its a self leveling paint so its pretty easy to apply without leaving any marks from the rollers. Just don't try to put too much on at a time and don't press down too hard to leave edges to each pass. Gentle passes over an area will help spread the paint evenly once you have it on the panel, even if you made ridges the first pass. so its quite forgiving of mistakes. It does take a while to dry enough between coats, i left it till the next day normally. Once its fully cured and hard you can flat it down and polish it if required. But i will say it takes a good while until its hard enough for that dependant on the weather/temp. I think the first one was a month before it could be flatted well but it was not the summer when i painted it so it was a bit cool in my garage. The first one was my Manta and this is the 2nd one i painted, my mates 3 series rally car, I don't think i flatted any area on it at all for this one. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. You can also buy the Rustoleum in spray tins so its easy to do the door appatures and oddly shaped areas with it. Or even the engine bay completely with it. Then roller the outside panels. With the prices of paintwork i will most likely be going back to the rollers for my next car. Around here £5k would be a bargin for a paint job, i haven't had a quote less than £10k and as high as £20k including fitting up a 400 kit 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRealExile Posted Saturday at 08:56 Share Posted Saturday at 08:56 Paid 3 grand for a bare metal job on my project and that was with me spending 2 days bare metaling it and another 2 days sanding. It's not perfect either and I'm probably going to give it another polish or three🙄 Like you say paint is a very expensive business these days. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted Saturday at 09:01 Share Posted Saturday at 09:01 4 minutes ago, TheRealExile said: Paid 3 grand for a bare metal job on my project and that was with me spending 2 days bare metaling it and another 2 days sanding. It's not perfect either and I'm probably going to give it another polish or three🙄 Like you say paint is a very expensive business these days. that is still an incredibly good price! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRealExile Posted Saturday at 09:22 Share Posted Saturday at 09:22 Sure is, took him 2 1/2 years mind 🙄 I'll probably spend the difference fixing it. After much fettling I fired it up and thought I'd won til I noticed a puddle followed by a spray which turned out to be fuel, pipe up to the engine bay had split, shakedown run next week 😬 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutty2006 Posted 13 hours ago Author Share Posted 13 hours ago Tonight’s job is to drain the diff oil, clean up the gasket surfaces and get it ready for a new gasket coming this week. the lower pan bolts were loose. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. no problem. I’ll take them all off and separate the pan from the casing, that’ll get the oil out right? oh. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. bone dry. Not a sausage. Now, it’s not completely dry. But I don’t ever recall draining the oil in the past. This could just be a file in my memory bank that’s corrupted or simply been deleted from the recycle bin. I don’t know. so I’ll have a quick scooch-a-roo at the internals. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. they don’t look too bad. No scoring or burned out areas. maybe I did drain it out? The pan looks like it’s had oil on it in the not so distant past. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. I have a 20L container with some left over ep90 from when we drained the reels at MAN to make way for more modern diff oil. That stuff must be over 10 years old, but it’ll do. I’ll grab that on Thursday when I’m up my unit. Casing now clean and ready for new gasket. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted 13 hours ago Share Posted 13 hours ago Been lucky there then I guess it’s not knocked any bearing out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutty2006 Posted 12 hours ago Author Share Posted 12 hours ago The most it’s gone is about 25 metres under its own steam. No faster than 10? So I can’t see that doing any harm. I’ll fill her up, if she’s buggered I’ve got a 1.8 AND a 2.0 axle up my unit. The 1.8 is good, the 2.0 is unknown. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Pounsett Posted 10 hours ago Share Posted 10 hours ago 2 hours ago, Sutty2006 said: Tonight’s job is to drain the diff oil, clean up the gasket surfaces and get it ready for a new gasket coming this week. the lower pan bolts were loose. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. no problem. I’ll take them all off and separate the pan from the casing, that’ll get the oil out right? oh. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. bone dry. Not a sausage. Now, it’s not completely dry. But I don’t ever recall draining the oil in the past. This could just be a file in my memory bank that’s corrupted or simply been deleted from the recycle bin. I don’t know. so I’ll have a quick scooch-a-roo at the internals. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. they don’t look too bad. No scoring or burned out areas. maybe I did drain it out? The pan looks like it’s had oil on it in the not so distant past. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. I have a 20L container with some left over ep90 from when we drained the reels at MAN to make way for more modern diff oil. That stuff must be over 10 years old, but it’ll do. I’ll grab that on Thursday when I’m up my unit. Casing now clean and ready for new gasket. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. I think the fact that the bolts were loose indicates that you did drain it at some point. This highlights the importance of a good ”to-do” list as discussed earlier. Recording the half done jobs is possibly more important than jobs not started. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted 2 hours ago Share Posted 2 hours ago 8 hours ago, Jonathan Pounsett said: I think the fact that the bolts were loose indicates that you did drain it at some point. This highlights the importance of a good ”to-do” list as discussed earlier. Recording the half done jobs is possibly more important than jobs not started. Parcel tags is what I use for 'drained' items or even Tape + perm Marker. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutty2006 Posted 1 hour ago Author Share Posted 1 hour ago Took the pan to work. Usually have a bit of free time here and there. Chucked it in the hot bath first, to degrease. then wire wheeled it. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Adequate Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Got plenty of primer and paint at work. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Choices are black, silver, stobart green or blue 🤣 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted 57 minutes ago Share Posted 57 minutes ago Get a Union Jack on it 😛 Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted 18 minutes ago Share Posted 18 minutes ago 🇩🇪 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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