parkesie Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 Im at my wits end with this now. Ive renewed everything ignition wise. mucked about with the advance and retard of the ignition. all timing marks lined up Given the carb a good going over for a laugh. Head off valve seats fubar so got a decent unleaded head on now. Still the same problem pop pop pop no power Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 Hi mate, Have you got access to a Gunsons 'Colourtune' kit? This sounds to me like a sympton of a weak mixture. Colourtune will allow you to see what colour you are burning at - mid blue = ideal, yellow = rich, pale blue/white = weak. Works like the good old school bunson burners - if you follow. Hope that helps, Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parkesie Posted January 10, 2009 Author Share Posted January 10, 2009 i dont have a colour tune but could try richening it up a touch i guess. Just been having another fiddle and if i remove no1 ht lead she dosnt loose any revs and revs cleanly. Definately got spark at no1 so another compression test in the morning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 (edited) Deleted Edited October 2, 2017 by mantadoc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vauxsenb Posted January 11, 2009 Share Posted January 11, 2009 To echo the last post, mine did the same and it turned out to be a bent valve . . . . . do the leak test Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parkesie Posted January 11, 2009 Author Share Posted January 11, 2009 OK had another fiddle this morning Compression test 10bar on all 4 cylinders 1 3 and 4 have lightly sooted the plugs (about right) 2 is white lean? I filled the ports before i put the head on no leaks its a completely different head to the one i took off aswell. Thinking about it the car did do this a few time before just for a moment when pulling away but then would sort its self out and be fine. But now its just constantly broke. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lackkie Posted January 11, 2009 Share Posted January 11, 2009 hi dont know if this may help but ive just spent last two weeks repairing my 1.8 ohc engine had similar problem was only running on 3 cylinders although cyl 4 had spark i removed and overhauled cylinder head after reffiting all parts was still the same had good compresion in desperation after much head scrating i changed the inlet manifold as a last attempt and all was perfect there was no visible defect with manifold but cured running problem the car has run lumpy since i purchased it but now runs a dream hope this helps somewhat faults are not always visually apprent good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted January 11, 2009 Share Posted January 11, 2009 If you are getting a weak mixture, albeit on only one cylinder it does sound like a manifold or carb air leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vauxsenb Posted January 11, 2009 Share Posted January 11, 2009 Did you use a new inlet gasket or re-use the existing one, it could be the source of the problem. No.2 is obviously weak on the mixture. Best of luck . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowy Posted January 11, 2009 Share Posted January 11, 2009 Or you may have a cracked cylinder head. If all else fails and you have to take the head off again. Get it crack tested before you put it back on. This is the worst case though. I hope it turns out to be something more simple. like a worn camshaft, manifold gasket etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parkesie Posted January 12, 2009 Author Share Posted January 12, 2009 hopefully by the weekend ill have all the parts i need to put injection on the beastie. !st change it to electronic ignition rull out that side of life completely. Then injection and fingers crossed again I used all new gaskets could be a carb to manifold gasket or a crack in the manifold will investigate further. Id like it to be running properly before i put injection on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowy Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 I would change to injection, but depending on what the problem is it might not go away. If you need any advise on fitting the injection system drop me a pm. If you are leaving the engine in make sure you cut your hole for the injection loom in the bulkhead before fitting the inlet & exhaust manifold. The space makes life easier not only for cutting the hole but fitting the loom and getting the grommet in properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guysat Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 Any more updates on this yet..? Im interested to know how the 2.4 head on the 2.0 engine is performing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjz400 Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 Im pretty sure hes not using a 2.4 just a std 2.0 gte head but could be wrong have to wait for Chris to answer you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parkesie Posted January 30, 2009 Author Share Posted January 30, 2009 From what i was told sounded like the 2.4 head wouldnt work. Ive fitted a 2.0gte head and ive been busy fitting injection aswell. For the injection loom no need to cut any holes for auto's Just need to figure out why ive not got any power to my fuel pump now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowy Posted January 31, 2009 Share Posted January 31, 2009 If the injection relay isn't working you wont get power to the pump. By pass the relay. Off the top of my head I think the relay connections go something like this: 30 - permanent live, thick red cable. 87 - feed to fuel pump, thick white or blue 87b - feed to injectors, throttle switch etc, thick white or blue 15 - switch live from ignition switch for relay coil - thin black 1 - signal from ignition hall sensors, thin green 50 - switch live from ignition for relay and thermo time switch, cold start valve etc, thin red black 31 - earth for relay coil, thin brown. Wire colours may vary on different cars .Also I might have the feeds the wrong way around. Some other manta nutter will probably correct me. In an emergency or for testing purposes. If you suspect the relay then bridge terminals 30, 87 and 87b together. The pump should run (all the time!!!!) and you should have power to the injectors. The car should also start. You can drive like this but I wouldn't recommend it for too long. JUST REMEMBER TERMINAL 30 IS A PERMENANT LIVE!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XL391 Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 Mine is doing exactly the same at the minute! Did you ever get to the bottom of it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keith1200 Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 Mine is doing exactly the same at the minute! Did you ever get to the bottom of it? Is that the same car? or a very similar looking car with the same fault? Get the timing done first Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lamchop77 Posted May 13, 2010 Share Posted May 13, 2010 Is that the same car? or a very similar looking car with the same fault? Get the timing done first Yep agree totally. One thing to note with what you have done....do you know how much has been skimmed off the head and possibly block? If the head has been skimmed you can set the timing marks up perfectly BUT because the distance between the crank and cam has been reduced the cam timing will be out. The only way to sort this is with a vernier timing gear or mod a std one to re jig everything. HTH Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devil Fish Posted May 13, 2010 Share Posted May 13, 2010 I've had pop back before now, turned out to be a blocked/badly fitted exhaust just thought it was worth a mention. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick Posted May 13, 2010 Share Posted May 13, 2010 This will be the classic worn camshaft problem. Misfire at idle but as you rev it it seems to clear? Seen it before aswell as all the head scratching and changing parts. To check it, remove the rocker cover and coil lead (so it doesnt start), get a helper to crank the engine and watch the amount the lifters move out of the head. Usually Cyl 3 or 4 will have a lazy one or two moving about half or less than the others and only lets minimum air/fuel in..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keith1200 Posted May 14, 2010 Share Posted May 14, 2010 Get yourself a Haynes manual All the information is there Only just reminded myself of that today! looking up something else! (Supplement; read chapter 4 ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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