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Willwood Brakesare


steel
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Wilwood calipers are very good but as they are competition calipers they don't come with dust seals on the pistons.

So they just want cleaning and checking on a regular basis (which you do with a competition car)

Depednding on what power your going for and how you are going to drive it affects if you need to go for 4 pots or just something like calibra turbo calipers and 284mm discs

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cant remember where i read it either on here or mpv forum saying theyre not worth the money which is why i asked your opinions :thumbup i know steve titmus has them on his rally car think he said he found them good when i asked him plan so far is spax suspension/lowering kit ,full poly kit and a willwood brake kit, i like to get opinions before i part with the hard earned

Edited by steel
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Have wilwood 4 pots on my manta and get brake fade but that could be down to the pads??? also as previously said the pads clatter which is very annoying ive tried copper slip but only works for a couple of weeks!!! have heard there is a stainless shim of some sort that fits between the body of the caliper and pads???? anyone know of these??

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................................................. the pads clatter which is very annoying ive tried copper slip but only works for a couple of weeks!!! ...............................................

Try putting a strong spring around the split pin, this pushes the pads apart and stop the chatter.

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Great brakes, had them on my turbo manta coupe, you will need, extra bridge bolts to reduce pad chatter, a 90 degree union or the brake pipe will go into coil spring on full lock, not good for mot, and you will need to shave off a small part of the lip on the top suspention arm as caliper will touch on full lock. I had 4 pot superlite on mine, also with these calipers had to cut down the back plate as caliper is very large also think you can now get these with dust seals, got mine from rallydesign.

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Great brakes, had them on my turbo manta coupe, you will need, extra bridge bolts to reduce pad chatter, a 90 degree union or the brake pipe will go into coil spring on full lock, not good for mot, and you will need to shave off a small part of the lip on the top suspention arm as caliper will touch on full lock. I had 4 pot superlite on mine, also with these calipers had to cut down the back plate as caliper is very large also think you can now get these with dust seals, got mine from rallydesign.

I bought one of the 286mm kits for my Chevette and had a problem with them hitting the top arm and the pads sat too far in on the disc , I got on to Rally Design and the guy said they don't hit the top arm so I sent him a picture and then he said he would look in to it, then he got back to me and said that the mounting brackets had been made wrong offered me a discount and I got a local machine shop to make me new ones and now they miss the top arm and the brake pads sit correctly on the disc to. The guy said he had sold 8 sets and no one had complained about them until I had told him about the problem, he sounded very annoyed with who ever had made them.

chevettebrakes013.jpg

As I have only had the Chevette on the road a couple of weeks I have noticed the pad knock noise and was wondering if anyone has any pictures of the type of springs they are using to stop the knock and where can I get some from?

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have taken a closer look at my brakes and have noticed that the pads move backwards and forwards if I rotate the disc. The split pins don't really hold the pads very well, I'm running Mintex pads, at the top and bottom edge of the pads there is a mm or 2 of play. Has anyone else had any movement issues like this?

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