Retro Power Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 You'll be fine, as long as you don't chop into any of the bits that are inside the pvc loom tubing (which is pretty obvious when you're working on it) then there's nothing that you'll cut that is tricky to sort. They are pretty simple things.......now the subaru rally car that we've just re-loomed, on the other hand...........argghhhhhhhhh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutty2006 Posted February 22, 2013 Author Share Posted February 22, 2013 I feel sorry for you then! I hate wiring..... even though im a HGV technition by trade. Work keep sending me on electrical courses but they just dont get the message that things like ohms, resistors, can lines, data lines and all out electrical cr4p really blaggs my head.... im no sparky. If i cant whack it with a massive hammer then i dont wish to know.... infact, I took the fuel pump relay out by pry barring the fuse box over with a 2ft pry bar! lol. Ive even been known to adjust alternator belts on old ERF's with a lump hammer... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retro Power Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 surely most adjustments on an old ERF can be done with a lump hammer !! (that's praise for them not criticism!!) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutty2006 Posted February 23, 2013 Author Share Posted February 23, 2013 I have no praise for old ERFs, they are the Bain of my life. I hit them with a hammer and the fall apart.... lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutty2006 Posted March 9, 2013 Author Share Posted March 9, 2013 Got the manta out from hibernation last night. Also got the engine stand out and mounted the engine to it so i can strip the sump off etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted March 9, 2013 Share Posted March 9, 2013 good progress, ive got that crane too! but in blue, best 40 quid i ever spent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutty2006 Posted March 9, 2013 Author Share Posted March 9, 2013 That crane is older than me. Infact it belonged to my grandad so it's seen some action! It finally bent a support leg when I took an Essex v6 and auto box out of a ganada lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutty2006 Posted March 10, 2013 Author Share Posted March 10, 2013 So i went and made a start. Took the bonnet off, and the down pipe. Thats as far as I got before I froze to death and came home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutty2006 Posted March 23, 2013 Author Share Posted March 23, 2013 So the engine came out.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutty2006 Posted March 23, 2013 Author Share Posted March 23, 2013 Then swapped over the important 1800 parts to the XE, but giving the sump half an hour in the steam cleaner before it was fitted. Also had the XE flywheel blasted and skimmed very lightly. Was going to do a bit more this weekend but the weather is cack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutty2006 Posted April 13, 2013 Author Share Posted April 13, 2013 Shiney exhaust fannymold turned up in the week from retropower (cheers dudes, its one hell of a fannymold!) test fitted to engine Looks awesome Set to taking the towbar and fuel tank off....... only to find the injection tank I bought last year is as sealed as the titanic... Both tanks together. So its back to the drawing board. I need to run a return pipe to the tank, any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MANTAMAN Posted April 16, 2013 Share Posted April 16, 2013 I've pondered the carb/injection tank problem, for injection not only is there a return pipe but the pump draws a large volume from the tank through a large bore pipe to convert to pressure. I have often wondered if you can use a Carb tank and simply put a 'Y' connector in the pipe from the tank so as the pump receives fuel from both the tank and the return line, the 'Y' connector would be a problem to create as it would have to be two small pipes feeding into a large pipe. I dont think there would be a need for a non-return valve in the line from the tank, the engine is using fuel so the pump is putting out more fuel than it is getting back from the return line so it would be drawing on the tank line all the time as well. This seems a very simple solution so there must be a flaw in it somewhere, someone with more intelligence please tell me where i've gone wrong ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickappy Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 that would not work ian as its a pressurized input and the return is just normal flow, easy option is do what daz did on his coupe tank and pop a return on the carb tank, maybe on the fuel neck?? if u put a y peice in it would pressurise both feed and return, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutty2006 Posted April 17, 2013 Author Share Posted April 17, 2013 It did cross my mind Ian but like mickappy says the return needs to be normal flow as the feed is highly pressurised. Also there will be the need for a swirl pot if I use the carbed tank due to the high quantity of fuel demanded from the sender. Injection tank should have this built in. I don't want to start using swirl pots and lift pumps, it all seams a bit too much.... So if I can't find a decent hatch injection tank I might have this one rebuilt. Cost a fortune but at least it will look better Oh and the engine is in now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickappy Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 id be tempted to put a return in the sender and try it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MANTAMAN Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 Mickappy - don't get what you mean by pressurized input, a fuel pump has a pressurized output. the way i see it on a normal injection system the pump sucks a large volume of fuel from the tank through a large bore pipe, the pump then converts this to pressure and sends the fuel to the engine which uses some of the fuel, the 'head of pressure' is maintained by a restrictor in the return pipe after which fuel at a lower pressure and volume returns to the tank. what i am proposing is that the pump sends high pressure fuel to the engine, a 'head of pressure' is maintaian by a restictor in the return pipe as per a standard injection, but instead of the return pipe going to the fuel tank it goes back to pump to be re-pressurized and sent back round to the engine, but as the engine will have used some fuel the differnce would be made up by a pipe coming from the tank and joining the return line before it gets back to the fuel pump, the fuel pump getting enough fuel by drawing (sucking) on both the return line and the pipe from the fuel tank. this way there is no need to have a large bore pipe coming from the fuel tank as it only has to make up the difference the engine uses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickappy Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 that ian could possibly work. as long a the return joins to th feed b4 the pump which is not under pressure. i thought u ment join back in to the pressurised line after the pump, all we need is for someone to try it:-)) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantasrme Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 I don't think the return line into the fuel feed to pump works right, i'm sure i read that because its pressurised it messes up the feed from the tank and can cause fuel starvation at the pump. This wasn't something i read online either it was from a magazine and i seem to remember it was from Dave Walker in CCC in one of his rolling road report articles. Can't quite get my head around it as fluid dynamics never made sense to me half the time Anyway i think the simplest solution is to fit a return line to the level sensor fitting plate using something like this But install it in the injection pickup/level sensor which has a larger diameter feed pipe, and fit it to your good old fuel tank. You won't have the little baffle around the pickup that the injection tank has, but this really only has an effect if you are low on fuel and throwing the car around so the pickup isn't submerged. Which can be fixed by not running low on fuel Or if you were going to use it on track days etc you can baffle the tank with foam or similar products but this is so expensive you'd be better off having a custom alloy tank made with baffles in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retro Power Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 I have contemplated the t or y piece idea before, it won't work as far as I can see. To be fair, once all primed, it actually should, but the problem is any air in the system can't escape, as it has to make its way up into the tank via the same pipe that the fuel is coming down. it "might" work but it would be a bit iffy as it would airlock very easily Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retro Power Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 PS I would do exactly what mantasrme suggests that's what we do on chevette conversions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutty2006 Posted April 22, 2013 Author Share Posted April 22, 2013 engines in anyway... At first attempt, exhaust manifold wont go in while the engine is bolted to the mounts. Might have to either raise the engine enough to slide it through the gap or remove the brake bias valve to give enough clearance. Then the hard work starts wiring it all up.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rutts Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 brake bias valve bends nicely to the battery tray area. well out of way of the heat from exhaust. why not get a quote for a new tank in alloy from one of the places on e-bay that make their own tanks for rally cars. might get a supprise in price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil308 Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 Nice work mate, the exhaust manifold is car porn... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutty2006 Posted July 7, 2013 Author Share Posted July 7, 2013 Well, the heat is on. Yesterday this engine fired on brake cleaner momentarily. Today I'm fitting the high pressure pump and fuel lines, changing the oil and filter, filling the gearbox with oil and changing the starter motor. I used the 1.8 starter instead of the c20xe one, which doesn't like engaging the flywheel. Cars booked in tomorrow for a full Powerflow, then Tuesday for its MOT, Wednesday for final tinkering and adjustments before hauling its ass to billing on Thursday. Cutting it fine!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutty2006 Posted July 7, 2013 Author Share Posted July 7, 2013 Brake servo pipe fits straight onto the xe inlet manifold, only mine was splt, so had to repair by raiding the breakdown van for some truck pipe.. High pressure fuel pump ready to be mounted to a bracket under the car Sorry this next pic is upside down. Its the right way up on my computor but photobucket has turned it round for some reasona and wont let me edit it. So I saved the throttle cable from the Corsa I ripped the engine from. Fits straight on, no modification. Pushed into next doors garage to use the ramp. Easier access today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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