CRAZYDAVE Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 Any tips on the best way to remove these? I have every other suspension bolt freed off no problem but these are proving to be a pain. I have the split pin and nut removed easily and have soaked in penetrating oil but the whole bush is turning with the bolt as it is seized into the bush sleeve. I would normally just burn the bush out as i have with some others but i'm not too keen on this idea so close to the fuel lines on the drivers side! Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutty2006 Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 Grind the bolt head off, on the outer side of the sill. Thats the only way ive been able to get them off. Once them bushes are stuck to the bolts, they are a nightmare to get off without damaging them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickappy Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 I blow torched mine off:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowy Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 If you want to save the bolt then you will need some heat. If you don't care either cut the head off or there is just enough room to get a thin cutting disc between the leg and the chassis rail to cut the bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lamchop77 Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 Soak with diesel for a week or so, then remove the nut from the bolt first if you can. Soak a bit more then use an impact air rachet gun backwards and forwards until it loosens. Managed to get most seized in bolts out this way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowy Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 Soak with diesel for a week or so, then remove the nut from the bolt first if you can. Soak a bit more then use an impact air rachet gun backwards and forwards until it loosens. Managed to get most seized in bolts out this way. This rarely works when the bolt is seized to the bush as the entire bush just turns in the arm. But this is great if it is actually seized into the chassis leg itself. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
upk Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 (edited) Any chance you can weld the inner bush Steel to the outer steel now the nuts off so you can lock inner while turning bolt? Just an idea, never looked at it myself but maybe worth a try! Edited April 24, 2014 by upk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantasrme Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 If the bolt doesn't move within the first minute of trying i just take an angle grinder and go up between arm and chassis rail. The top of the bolt will knock out of the rail afterwards and the bush with seized bolt still in goes in the bin. New bolt and nut along with poly bush for outriger and jobs sorted when it goes back together 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRAZYDAVE Posted April 25, 2014 Author Share Posted April 25, 2014 If the bolt doesn't move within the first minute of trying i just take an angle grinder and go up between arm and chassis rail. The top of the bolt will knock out of the rail afterwards and the bush with seized bolt still in goes in the bin. New bolt and nut along with poly bush for outriger and jobs sorted when it goes back together Thanks for all the replies everybody I think this is the option i'm going for already tried the blowtorch method last night repeatedly with the only result being that i came out smelling like a walking burnout! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted April 25, 2014 Share Posted April 25, 2014 Don't remove front seat, Don't remove carpet, Don't cut tinh hole in oval recess, don't use a drift or bar to beat up the spacer "tube" (not a tube) to crack the rust, Don't if necessary drill a little hole in the spacer "tube" (not a tube)and pour oil in it, Don't free off with breaker bar when rust cracked and lubricated. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Posted April 25, 2014 Share Posted April 25, 2014 Don't remove front seat,Don't remove carpet,Don't cut tinh hole in oval recess,don't use a drift or bar to beat up the spacer "tube" (not a tube) to crack the rust,Don't if necessary drill a little hole in the spacer "tube" (not a tube)and pour oil in it,Don't free off with breaker bar when rust cracked and lubricated. I'd remove the DONT'S from that bit of advice!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted April 25, 2014 Share Posted April 25, 2014 I'd remove the DONT'S from that bit of advice!! Lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRAZYDAVE Posted April 28, 2014 Author Share Posted April 28, 2014 They're out! Ended up grinding the heads off then burn the bushes out and hitting them through Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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