Paul Barrett Posted August 14, 2014 Author Share Posted August 14, 2014 (edited) Engine mounts got some looking at this afternoon Turned up some bush tubes from solid bar I scored from a local machine shop (another good contact sourced) Then some 6mm plate for bracket to weld to the subframe Got these tacked to subframe Then did make a start tigging up the block mounts, not the prettiest tig welding but it's all new to me so I'm learning a new skill with this project, actually turning with the lathe is still very new to me but getting more to grips with techniques as I go. Edited August 14, 2014 by Paul Barrett Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted August 14, 2014 Author Share Posted August 14, 2014 Got first mount done, not the greatest tig welds, but strong and penetrated well, I'm still learning and will be some time until I get anywhere near consistent This is how tight I am for manifold space, but I'm confident I squeeze a half decent fanimoulds in there Made a start on the gearbox support member/cross brace with tubes for exhaust to Pass through Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 Looking good Paul, I really enjoy reading through people's different projects as I can learn from them as well and I am really enjoying reading the updates on this. Keep up the great work mate! Regards, Jack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiMarco Posted August 15, 2014 Share Posted August 15, 2014 Do you know how you are going to do the manifolds Paul? are you going to do 2 under and 2 over like mine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted August 15, 2014 Author Share Posted August 15, 2014 Do you know how you are going to do the manifolds Paul? are you going to do 2 under and 2 over like mine? Is like to squeeze them both alongside the block but I think I'm going to be too tight for the drivers side with the steering arm having to go through aswell . Goig to get some bends ordered up soon and have a play Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony g Posted August 15, 2014 Share Posted August 15, 2014 I know its sounds wrong but quite a few in the states have had good results with "log" type manifolds. Basically small pipes coming off the flange but with a swept rad so facing for or aft. These then live inside a tube with flange on the end for the down pipe. Saves loads of room. Ill try and find a pic. Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted August 15, 2014 Author Share Posted August 15, 2014 I know what you mean tony and have considered it as a last resort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiMarco Posted August 15, 2014 Share Posted August 15, 2014 Is like to squeeze them both alongside the block but I think I'm going to be too tight for the drivers side with the steering arm having to go through aswell . Goig to get some bends ordered up soon and have a play Paul why don't you get the car all together and take it to infinity exhausts as they do down pipes with full systems. I got a quote for mine to modify the manifold and move them along the block like you are thinking so they are tucked up and behind the engine instead of under the subframe like now. They quoted me £500 for this and that is 2 side exits also . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiMarco Posted August 15, 2014 Share Posted August 15, 2014 I know its sounds wrong but quite a few in the states have had good results with "log" type manifolds. Basically small pipes coming off the flange but with a swept rad so facing for or aft. These then live inside a tube with flange on the end for the down pipe. Saves loads of room. Ill try and find a pic. Tony Put this in on google I have thought of something similar for mine but didn't know if I would loose power from this style of system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted August 15, 2014 Author Share Posted August 15, 2014 I can probably build my own for less than 80, as I have the silencers and tube lengths, just need some bends. thanks for the recommendation though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted August 15, 2014 Author Share Posted August 15, 2014 (edited) Put this in on google I have thought of something similar for mine but didn't know if I would loose power from this style of system. yeah its not the ideal style of manifold for good flow, seem to be quite popular for turbo conversion though Edited August 15, 2014 by Paul Barrett Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted August 15, 2014 Author Share Posted August 15, 2014 kinda like this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiMarco Posted August 15, 2014 Share Posted August 15, 2014 Is that what you are going for as I would be interested in the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted August 15, 2014 Author Share Posted August 15, 2014 I reckon so, just depends if can get tight enough bends and the 1 1/2" bore I want may have to use 1 1/4" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony g Posted August 15, 2014 Share Posted August 15, 2014 11/4 is plenty big enough imo. too much emphasis is placed on large bore primaries and the smaller dia pipe will make power lower down too (torque). If I was doing a 1uz i'd use 1 7/8 for the main system too if going twin pipes or the equivilent surface area for a single. I love the sound of a v8 with a single pipe set up after the collectors but thats just me Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony g Posted August 15, 2014 Share Posted August 15, 2014 logmanifold by tg1mm, on Flickr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted August 15, 2014 Author Share Posted August 15, 2014 11/4 is plenty big enough imo. too much emphasis is placed on large bore primaries and the smaller dia pipe will make power lower down too (torque). If I was doing a 1uz i'd use 1 7/8 for the main system too if going twin pipes or the equivilent surface area for a single. I love the sound of a v8 with a single pipe set up after the collectors but thats just me Tony I still need to do more research on this tony, what is going to be best for the final engine build. after your comment I have done a quick gen up, and yeah 1.5" is ott for what im after, considering ill be using 2" main tubes to, so your suggestion is most probable way forward Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted August 17, 2014 Author Share Posted August 17, 2014 Few pics of yesterday's progress with gearbox mount and cross brace Just need to tie the centre mount more now and consider the tunnel structure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted August 17, 2014 Author Share Posted August 17, 2014 (edited) Didn't get loads done today as had a training session this morning for a charity cycle next weekend Cross brace near enough done, Other engine mount done, I'm going to re-position the brackets on the subframe though to allow more room for steering shaft and manifold, I've been given a mx5 manual rack (cheers steve aka wheelspinner) and lt looks like it could be better than the manta one for its mounting and pinion shaft placement, as it's further out to clear the sump more and allow it to be kicked up so the column shaft comes more down into it, need a pic really to help explain. Edited August 18, 2014 by Paul Barrett 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manta again Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 Great work Paul, I can only dream of having fabrication skills like yours. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MANTAMAN Posted August 18, 2014 Share Posted August 18, 2014 Unfortunately i'm going to rain on your parade a little, the gearbox mount might not cope, the torque induced twisting and general side thrust might rip the vertical rubber bobbins apart, rubber gearbox mounts have an angle in them in some form or another, hence why the mounting faces / points on the gearbox are at an angle to cope with vertical and horizontal forces. The MX 5 rack could be a problem, the rack width and hence steering arms must be the same as the Manta original, I.E. be the same length fron pivot to pivot as the lower suspesion arm or they will move through a slightly different radius and induce a small amount of bump steer. Me and a friend took a long hard look at his BMW E30 power steering rack and concluded that it could be made to fit if new mounting point were made and the case and rack were shortened to Manta width, as we don't have machine shop facilities we set the idea aside ( plus it would have needed the power steering pump, brackets and pullies from a Carlton / Senator for the CIH engine ) You do have machine shop facilities so you could overcome issues like this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted August 18, 2014 Author Share Posted August 18, 2014 (edited) I'm gutted to admit your right with the gearbox mount Ian, . It will need redoing, it didn't even cross my mind, shouldnt take too much to chop it about. This is why I post so much, allows more experienced fanatics to cast their observations for the better, it will result in a far better build than I can achieve with my more limited knowledge. The mx5 rack would need shortening yes, that is quite easy with them hence me sizing one up, just depends if it's any better than the manta for fitment All good fun isn't it!! Edited August 18, 2014 by Paul Barrett 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyc Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 You know, reading threads like this is like watching an "Adult Film", make a lot of us feel inadequate. keep it up Paul, the work that is Andy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Abbott Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 This project is just crazy good :-) I'm going to have a proper look over the last few Pages when I can get on the PC. Viewing a project with skills as good as this shouldn't be just viewed on my phone! Top work mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted August 20, 2014 Author Share Posted August 20, 2014 Many thanks for the praise guys but I'm just a mere amateur. Bit if a downer on the project front at the moment having hit several issues. 1- having to redo the gearbox mount 2- the steering rack issue us giving me a headache 3- I've now found the tilton throw out bearing isn't going to work as the bearing face is too small for the clutch finger contact Grrrrr. I think I'm going to take a break from the chassis/drivetrain side of things for a bit to collect my thoughts, will get the workshop all tidied up and tools cleaned down etc. And maybe just then concentrate on cutting the shell floor pan ready to drop on the chassis. that'll be a big motivational push indeed and probably highlight even more issues! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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