Snowy Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 Many thanks for the praise guys but I'm just a mere amateur. Bit if a downer on the project front at the moment having hit several issues. 1- having to redo the gearbox mount 2- the steering rack issue us giving me a headache 3- I've now found the tilton throw out bearing isn't going to work as the bearing face is too small for the clutch finger contact Grrrrr. I think I'm going to take a break from the chassis/drivetrain side of things for a bit to collect my thoughts, will get the workshop all tidied up and tools cleaned down etc. And maybe just then concentrate on cutting the shell floor pan ready to drop on the chassis. that'll be a big motivational push indeed and probably highlight even more issues! I've seen cars with a spacer between the thrust bearing and clutch fingers for exactly that reason. But do you have enough room for a spacer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted August 21, 2014 Author Share Posted August 21, 2014 Hhhmm I has crossed my mind, would be dead easy to turn up a flanged ring ooooeeer! I do need to lose the mounting plate that is actually for bmw fitment and turn up a sleeve to site the HRB and then securing tab or two, so that would gain me loads more clearance for a spacer ring 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted August 22, 2014 Author Share Posted August 22, 2014 Have come up with this, to weld up This is what I need to sort with the release bearing, I will be machining a stepped spacer to press into the smaller bearing wht the same outer diameter and profile and the larger conventional bearing 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
x-pat mike Posted August 26, 2014 Share Posted August 26, 2014 paul, that gearbox mount is overkill for the power you are making, even when throwing excess of 700hp through tko 600 trannys there is only one bushing with two bolts in horizontal plane holding it and we have never broken one off yet, even at the dragstrip, and the crossmember is 1" .230" wall! if you google 700 r4 trans mount you will see it, we use a urethane one but they are all the same for th350, 400 r4's etc, check out this pic, this is a 650 hp big block powering this and look at the trans crossmember! http://lowdownhotrods.smugmug.com/What-we-do/Chassis-and-Frames/1139774_MHktr8#!i=53116858&k=sxjJCgV&lb=1&s=A i was doing this a while ago when i worked there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
x-pat mike Posted August 26, 2014 Share Posted August 26, 2014 another pic too, http://lowdownhotrods.smugmug.com/What-weve-done/Current-Projects/Gaz-13-Chaika/27964074_cm8vwP#!i=2596799118&k=GzG9dCX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
x-pat mike Posted August 26, 2014 Share Posted August 26, 2014 this is over 1000hp blown bigblock! http://lowdownhotrods.smugmug.com/What-weve-done/Complete-Turn-Key-Projects/1932-Hi-Body-Coupe/11619868_dL5RFH#!i=1091916706&k=8ZbpZ38 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony g Posted August 26, 2014 Share Posted August 26, 2014 Paul, as Mike has said its not needed to be that substantial. Have a look at a stock W58 half way down this page http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tech-conversions/31858-w58-gearbox-mount.html Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted August 26, 2014 Author Share Posted August 26, 2014 Yeah it is OTT but it's staying, or do you think a single bobbin mounted direct to fanned gearbox bracket would be sufficient, it's quite light really, The whole member itself is to tie the rails together and give me a mountig for the tunnel Structure etc. Cheers for the info guys but too late lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted August 26, 2014 Author Share Posted August 26, 2014 No going back now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted August 26, 2014 Author Share Posted August 26, 2014 (edited) Some of you may want to look away now Edited August 26, 2014 by Paul Barrett 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted August 26, 2014 Author Share Posted August 26, 2014 Well got it on, few issues to address Need to cut out inner arches fully at the rear and will need to flare the outers to achieve what I want and to provide some clearance to remove the wheels. Bonnet will need a slight bulge, mk1 capri it will be as I like the look. Really pleased how it's progressing!! Happy with shifter position too, rear seating will be a no no, but I'll put a bench in anyway, 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manta again Posted August 26, 2014 Share Posted August 26, 2014 Fantastic, love how the rear wheels sit in the arch. Your a brave man, well done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted August 26, 2014 Author Share Posted August 26, 2014 'brave' or stupid lol I may do something radical with the rear arches yet, and I don't mean widearch as I don't like that look Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiMarco Posted August 26, 2014 Share Posted August 26, 2014 That looks shit hot Paul very brave but you have done really well. Is the front end going to look totally different? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
x-pat mike Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 looking good!! rear wheels look great in there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony g Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 Nice work Paul, looks great with the body back on. Wheels in rear look great. Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devil Fish Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 dude, that looks awesome! (certainly one way to deal with a rusty floor) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted August 27, 2014 Author Share Posted August 27, 2014 Cheers guys! I must admit when stepping back from even dropping it on wonky it looked awesome. I may even try and eek it a little lower lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
x-pat mike Posted August 28, 2014 Share Posted August 28, 2014 lower lower!! lol, my frame rails are 4" from ground, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiMarco Posted August 28, 2014 Share Posted August 28, 2014 I am going to go for the 70s look I think jack the back up and lover the front looks mean as like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted August 28, 2014 Author Share Posted August 28, 2014 lower lower!! lol, my frame rails are 4" from ground, I'm not far off that now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted August 28, 2014 Author Share Posted August 28, 2014 I am going to go for the 70s look I think jack the back up and lover the front looks mean as like that. You don't have a choice with those monster rear rubber! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shug Posted August 28, 2014 Share Posted August 28, 2014 You don't have a choice with those monster rear rubber! That sounds alarming taken out of context.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiMarco Posted August 28, 2014 Share Posted August 28, 2014 You don't have a choice with those monster rear rubber! I don't know mate before even with the rubber blown to the right psi they where still tucked in the arches but I want to raise her some more but dip the front but needs to get over speed bumps lol 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted September 23, 2014 Author Share Posted September 23, 2014 bit of cut and paste from another forum....... Bit more done, been notching the subframe and doing lots of trial and error for other bits and pieces, bolted the coilovers in too with machined spacers, will need some heavier poundage springs for sure, prob 350lb I guess, Also noticed that now I've setup the gas with additional flow meter like the tig setup my welds are much better. -------------------------------------- Had a little play with the stock steering rack positioning, made up a mounting bar for rack then go it in the closest position position possible, looks like I can make it work I will need to fabricate new steering arms though, that is for sure to effectively move the rod end forward and down accordingly ------------------------------------------------------ Squeezed an hour in tonight Turned up the stepped clutch bearing spacer to allow better contact with the pressure plate fingers Picked a bargain box load of bar offcuts, a small fortune here if I were to buy separate ---------------------------------------------- Been giving the steering arms lots of thought too. It wouldn't be too hard to fabricate some bolt on extensions using the existing balljoint hole and one of the bolts on the upright, ---------------------------------------------- suggestion from the drifting community gave me ideas of offset rack spacers..... This design looks achieve able with the tools I have ------------------------------------------------ I like this design of ball joint bump correction, meant for Porsche application but could be easily copied for the manta, I like the cage adding more stability to the long bolt through -------------------------------------------------- On another note did get some done this weekend Turned up some stock for making some relocating mounts crush tubes in new location It's mounted up now and clears sump etc. next is to sort the tie rods Ackerman angles etc, I'm settling on using some offset Rack spacers which I will machine up myself, and some adjustable tie rods look likely. It's all a lot more work than I wanted to do and a lot of compromises but, should be worth it hopefully. ------------------------------------------------ Another dilemma I have is tube size for the headers, I have sourced some 1 1/4" ss bends quite cheaply but u feel they are too small., all the guys who build up the lexus motors use tube matched to port size around 1 1/2 inch or more. I have a few cast as bends from an old turbo manifold build from years ago this is the difference Using the smaller would be a lot easier for the tight space I have but harder to weld with its thinner wall thickness, but on the upside a lot lighter. But will it restrict my future plans to supercharge the lump, decisions decisions, any guidance from v8 gurus much appreciated ----------------------------------------------- Got a bit done this weekend, got the rack spacers done after a lot measuring and couple of failed trial ones this is what I have, I will be fabricating a further pair of assemblies to lower the balljoints on the steering arms too that will achieve the exact position of the stock geometry. Made a start in the sump and oil pickup too, it's all very tight but should work will be much like a manta 1800 sump in shape, with a baffle or two Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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