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Manta A Series V8 Supercharged


Paul Barrett
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Knocked up a better bracket for sterring box from some thick ally plate and welded it, cut up a steel plate to weld to hanger on the subframe too, that needs slight mod, first before welding on

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down, wazzed on some qeld to the headers, they are ready for the collectors now

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I know the uneven header length isn't ideal but I simply done have the room for any bring else better

Should get you to make my exhaust system mate :P

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The low end band should be nice with this setup, but I imagine not ideal for when it's eventually supercharged, deal with that when the time comes, at the end of the day it's got to be drive able on the road too, it'll be no trailer queen! And I would like to some long distances in it too.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Have bought this to play around with, funky lookinge lotus exige pedal box, doesn't operate how u want, as I want inboard cylinders (aim to keep the engine bay as clean as possible, hidden wiring etc

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engine back in again in its final position and clearing the subframe fully now, threw some panels on and then proceeded to mull over the body mounting and how I'm going to do the floor, I'm still undecided whether to weld it all up as a monocoque or have a bolt in body, I'm leaning more to the latter as would:-

-Be much easier to paint the frame separately and ensure all welding is top notch

-any future possible mods to drivetrain etc and possible repairs are easier to undertake

It's just more involved and would add a little more weight with a sub-floor fabrication

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The pedalbox was shagged!

Has to Rip it apart and make some new parts for it.

Took out the main tube axke and ran it up in the lathe to clean all the rust off and then polish it up.

The cylinder adjusters were siezed too, so I kade some new ones, just need to drill and tap for a locking grub screw in the sides

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Squeezed a couple of hours in over the weekend

Finally got the rear tubs cut out for placing the body even more, also cut out the new arches I welded in a few years ago now, I'm using some scrap front wing lips as they sit higher than rear and in my opinion will balance the cars looks more with it being so low now , 4" ground clearance

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I will need to flare the bodywork as you can see, also I'll be splitting the arch panel in half to create a larger wheel arch radius as currently only has 10mm clearance with the tyres I'm using

The new floor will also be flat with the channeling effect,so new seats will need to be thought about, I'm leaning towards some propa hotrod style bomber seats, aluminium hole flared with a few pads for comfort.

So next jobs are to tub out the rear, get some outriggers welded to the chassis to tie in the shell to, I've decided I'm going to weld all as one unit rather than bolt On shell, will be neater and quicker, less weight. I'll worry about getting underneath

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  • 1 month later...

A little update to say I've done nothing!

Starting to get withdrawl symptoms if I'm honest so this weekend should see something done.

I have picked up another very early 1uz lump. For building up as final engine.

Also decided on filler flap, I know a small detail but important as any other

Audi TT electronic flap, may get painted but is in very good condition

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Edited by Paul Barrett
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Managed a day on the build today, after a lot of faffing getting the chassis on stands and then body set

Got one sill area cut back, stitched the floor pan back to the will then made a start in boxing in. My bead roller works great, adds a lot more stiffness to thin steel and looks pretty cool

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Also made one body mount outrigger. I'm definately going to make the chassis and body separate, once body is built I can separate and whack the chassis on the rotisserie to finish welding and paint, much easier and better finish, welding upside down just doesn't cut it with mig and too fiddly with the tig.

Edited by Paul Barrett
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