Andy18s Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 Right,I've bought a stupidly cheap 94 Calibra with the 2.0 8valve engine. Am i right in thinking the engine will swap straight in to my 1800 Hatch? Looking to run it on the dizzy off the 1800,and fit it with a rejetted Weber carb. Will the 1800 exhaust manifold fit? I dont have the money for a redtop swap at the mo,and i know this Calibra has a cracking engine in it Any thoughts would be good Ta Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyc Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 Hi Andy Yes straight swap but why not while your at it if the injection as well, its not a long job and you have everything you need to do the job Cheers#Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rutts Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 exhaust fits but inlet wont. easiest way is take the 1.8 inlet and 2.0 to an alloy fabricators and bandsaw them and weld 1.8 carb side to the 2.0 engine side. did this years ago and used a 2.0 pinto carb with a webber base plate conversion from varijet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MANTAMAN Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 'Messed about' with a MK 2 Cav years ago and put in an injected engine and run it on a carb. NO the manifold doesn't quite fit but is easy to rectify, the studs line up but the ports on the manifold are smaller than the head, thankfully there is enough metal in the walls of the manifold 'pipes' to open them out to match the head. If you can put the injection system into the Manta then you'll have the Manta GTE Opel's should have made when they brought out the 1800. Leaving it on a carb could be difficult,how you'd alter a varijet i dont know so you might end up getting a Weber and re-jetting that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
opel2000 Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 Once fitted Astra 1.8 GTE engine into 1.6 MKII Cav and ran it on a 1.8 jetted carb, car was great until high revs, fuelling from the carb was jsut so wrong for this engine. Once fitted SEH into My Manta. Dead easy if you already have 1.8 Manta engine, would also be a lot easier to run this on injection and better to run on injection than on a carb. Using the dizzy drive bracket off of the Manta, this will bolt straight onto the SEH The viscous coupled fan will bolt straight onto the SEH, so you don't need an auxiliary rad fan. The connector for the ignition to the dizzy is not needed, I stripped out my dizzy as nothing is used in the dizzy. use the sump, engine mounts, pick up pipe, gearbox etc, off of the 1.8 Manta. Exhaust manifold off of the Manta should fit fine. You will need to fit a fuel pump wire for a leccy pump, approx 1.5mm red wire with blue stripe off of the big igniton relay, fit some fuel lines, and possibly be wise to obtain an injetcion tank, but this can be got around. Was getting approx 150bhp from mine on injection, pretty straightforward conversion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rutts Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 mantaman the 1.8 manifold will fit the 2.0 seh but you have a 2mm gap around the top of inlet manifold and inlet tracts so it wont run correctly. peter maiden racing made an adapter for this conversion you could also make one, buy some alloy plate 10mm and get a 1.8 gasket one side 2.0 on the other line up the stud holes and drill/grind the ports in the plate to convert 1.8 manifold to 2.0 seh cylinder head. if i remember correctly the ne engine is different the ports line up difference is the manifold off a 1.8 has round ports the ne has square ports so flow is a little impared. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy18s Posted March 30, 2011 Author Share Posted March 30, 2011 Thanks for all the advice. I'll be putting this off for a bit as i'm enjoying smoking around in the Calibra even though it's wrong wheel drive! Plus I've got my eye on the hatch down in Bicester So i may be needing to move on the my red hatch to make room(and pay for it) Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynamytedan Posted March 31, 2011 Share Posted March 31, 2011 (edited) ive done this . the exhaust manifold does fit , if you want to use your webber carb , i have a manta 1.8s inlet manifold thats been modified(ally welded) which bolts to your injection head . this allows a carb to be used :-) ive still got it if you need one , ive got bike carbs now so its no longer any use . you can see it here just about ... you can also use a mk1 astra gte cam shaft and carrier that has the lobe for the mechanical fuel pump , this set up worked quite well for me , and im still using the mk1 gte cam ,i thought it performed considerably better than the SEH cam !! only snag was the breather pipe comes off the opposite side of the mk1 astra gte cam carrier .so you need to get creative with the brether plumbing. Edited March 31, 2011 by dynamytedan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
opelmantagsi Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 (edited) @ dynamytedan I have the same engine in my Manta, do you know what that plug in the engine block is below number 1 exhaust port? I have the same thing with what looks like a wire cut off the black 90 degree plug with the yellow band on it shown in your picture. cheers Derek Edited April 1, 2011 by opelmantagsi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
opel2000 Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 @ dynamytedan I have the same engine in my Manta, do you know what that plug in the engine block is below number 1 exhaust port? I have the same thing with what looks like a wire cut off the black 90 degree plug with the yellow band on it shown in your picture. cheers Derek The plug in the engine block is the TDC sensor also known as the crank sensor, on the crank there is a toothed wheel with a gap in. The gap corresponds to TDC, when the sensor detects the gap it tells the ECU that No. 1 piston is at Top Dead Centre, I could be wrong with the TDC bit but it definately tells the ECU the crank position hence firing position of pistons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutty2006 Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 I'm guessing the crank sensor can be done away with if not using injection? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
opelmantagsi Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 The plug in the engine block is the TDC sensor also known as the crank sensor, on the crank there is a toothed wheel with a gap in. The gap corresponds to TDC, when the sensor detects the gap it tells the ECU that No. 1 piston is at Top Dead Centre, I could be wrong with the TDC bit but it definately tells the ECU the crank position hence firing position of pistons. thats interesting, means my engine has not got the original block I guess Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
opel2000 Posted April 2, 2011 Share Posted April 2, 2011 I'm guessing the crank sensor can be done away with if not using injection? Depends what ignition system you are using, a lot of aftermarket systems need something to tell them when to fire a spark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynamytedan Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 Yes its a crank shaft (tdc )sensor . it does suggest your engine is from a later cav sri or similar later lump with injection . not needed with carb and dizzy belt drive . it may be of use if you are using megajolt or the like to controll spark timing , the usual way is to weld a ford (EDIS) trigger wheel to your crank pulley and mount a crank sensor there . ive never found out if its possible to use the vauxhall seh trigger wheel in an EDIS system for megajolt , probably not due to no. of teeth on the wheel being different . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutty2006 Posted April 6, 2011 Share Posted April 6, 2011 I don't think I've got the crank sensor on mine, nor a separate timing belt tensioner so mine must be an early engine. I plan on using an 1800 cambox with the 2.0 cam in, so I can use the 1800 dizzy setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynamytedan Posted April 6, 2011 Share Posted April 6, 2011 I don't think I've got the crank sensor on mine, nor a separate timing belt tensioner so mine must be an early engine. I plan on using an 1800 cambox with the 2.0 cam in, so I can use the 1800 dizzy setup. you will need the 1.8s cam pulley for the belt drive dizzy , im sure you know ,an electric facet fuel pump down by the tank (no pump lobe on cam). i would seriously reccomend the mk1 astra gte cam over the 2.0 one and the original 18s one ,there was a good noticable difference especially over 4000 rpms , the gte one just keeps the engine pulling hard right up the revs further than you would ever need to go. where as the 2.0 and 1800 well lets just say you might aswell change gear at 5000 definatly would not perform the same way through the top end . the guy i got the gte bits from many years ago did brag about pulling right past 8000rpms out of his standard engine, and put it down to the camshaft . after experiencing similar good top end for myself i must agree . i was using a weber 32/36 with these injection cams .... so its never going to be well suited . it did work quite well tho .economy and emissions were always out as it required everything/more than the carb had to offer . needed to be very rich to get the perfomance it was capable of , set it right for the MOT and it was very sluggish ...rejetting might have helped... hence the bike carbs later on ....yet another vast improovement . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutty2006 Posted April 6, 2011 Share Posted April 6, 2011 The only worry I have about fitting a facet pump and regulator is it's constantly pumping fuel, so when the ignition is on or you're coasting in gear the pump will flood the carb as there's no fuel return... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
opel2000 Posted April 6, 2011 Share Posted April 6, 2011 The only worry I have about fitting a facet pump and regulator is it's constantly pumping fuel, so when the ignition is on or you're coasting in gear the pump will flood the carb as there's no fuel return... No mate, the needle valve and floats stop this from happening. Think about it... the Carbed Manta's have their fuel pumps running continuous Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantasrme Posted April 6, 2011 Share Posted April 6, 2011 Facet pumps are self regulating for pressure so won't flood a normal carb. When they're started you'll hear them pump away quickly then slow down as the pressure builds Bike carb's are a different thing as they are normally only gravity fed so their float valves can't cope with more than about 4psi Or you could have them on a separate switch if you really want to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutty2006 Posted April 6, 2011 Share Posted April 6, 2011 I get the drift now just need to get a service kit and new jets for the carb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynamytedan Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 (edited) i had an r1 pump for a short while mounted up behind the headlight . it did struggle to pull the fuel up if left a day or so ,being that far from the tank i guess . others have found no problems doing this ,and suggested mounting by the tank might be best . depends weather its a push or a pull pump .... 5psi facet by the tank and reg will work fine Edited April 7, 2011 by dynamytedan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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