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IanMc

Polar White and Rust - a restoration epic, can it even be done?

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1 minute ago, Monaco Blue said:

We are! :) Keep up the good work!

You must be confident that fixing the bodywork and/or underside isn't going to interfere with all the work you have completed so far. 

Thank you Sir, much appreciated.

Confident?, erm that might be a bit much.

I would probably say cautiously optimistic lol

Have a nice evening.

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hi ian,glad its all going well so far. in responce to the brake bleeding if its of any use to you i use an old fridge motor/compressor with the suction pipe into a large jar and another longer pipe into the jar to go to the bleed nipples.works a treat ,sucks all the fluid through at a resonable rate ,nice little workshop tool to make up. just dont use one thats too powerfull or it will suck too much and can draw air past the seals.a normal small household under counter fridge type is fine. 

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54 minutes ago, cam.in.head said:

hi ian,glad its all going well so far. in responce to the brake bleeding if its of any use to you i use an old fridge motor/compressor with the suction pipe into a large jar and another longer pipe into the jar to go to the bleed nipples.works a treat ,sucks all the fluid through at a resonable rate ,nice little workshop tool to make up. just dont use one thats too powerfull or it will suck too much and can draw air past the seals.a normal small household under counter fridge type is fine. 

Hi mate, what a great idea - I really like that. I will put that on my 'TO DO' list - which as it stands is about as long as the Amazon river lol

To be honest, for the Cav I will just use my regular kit I think as it might take me a while to get your idea sorted/working, and I want to crack on with the bleeding ASAP.

It is very clever though!   :thumbup

 

Today's completed jobs:

- OSR new wheel cylinder fitted - all nice and easy.

- OSR coil spring removed, cleaned down and repainted.

- OSR coil 'cup' and surrounding area all wire brushed and painted the same as the other side last weekend.

Just need to leave the Hammerite a couple of days to properly harden through, then I will bolt that corner all back together again.

Have a good day all.

Edited by IanMc

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Had a few minutes to kill before we go out so decided to do a bit of under bonnet tidying.

After treating a lot of surface rust with one of those super duper treatments, I decided that perhaps a bit of paint would make it look better. I found some white Hammerite in my paint cabinet and although its nowhere near a match, its better than the purple finish left behind by the rust eater..

I only had the time to do the large parts on the NS, but hopefully during the week I can work my way around the engine bay to try to keep the old metal moth at bay in there for a while.

Before:

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After:

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Its a little bit better than it was, at least its now White :lol:

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Hi,yeah the vacuum brake bleeder is a very helpfull tool.my garage is full of them 'special tools' ideas.i just made mine into a little box with a handle on top.it houses the motor and the big jar.due to my unit being from a bigger fridge freezer it had a bit of poke to it so i 'T' pieced in a small tap to allow some of the vacuum to escape so as not to be too powerfull when bleeding. Its also ideal for draining out master cylinder resevoir or other stuff you need emptying.

i have other various car related modified tools such as the shortened 15mm for clutch adjustment,2 foot knocking arm for hinge pin removal ,laser pen pointer assembly for tracking,etc etc .....

i must admit i prefer to spend all day making something for myself that you could probably go out and buy in a shop for maybee less price or sometimes not but not usually as substantial. Thats crazy to most people but life is all about doing what makes you happy.

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Sorry I haven’t posted any updates for a few days, it’s been pretty busy at work this week so the car has taken a bit of a backseat.

Anyway... got a few things done this morning:

- refitted the OSR coil spring

- did some more under bonnet painting, this time on the drivers side.

- removed, wire brushed and painted the washer reservoir bracket.

- wire brushed then painted the bulkhead area behind the washer bottle.

- glued the rubber insulation back to that same area of the bulkhead after the paint had dried.

- inspected the complete exhaust. The downpipes from the manifold are rusted but in one piece 🤞, the first (of three) silencer is also fine. The second silencer had a crack on the box face as the pipe entered, only very small so put some exhaust repair paste over that. The main silencer box itself was holed in the middle though (about 20 mm dia.). As I am saving my pennies at the moment, I decided simply to use an exhaust bandage I had on the shelf as a temporary fix for that (After adding a small Steel plate and some more repair paste).

The one part I can do nothing with at all though is the rear silencer as the whole bottom of the can has gone lol

- refitted all of the bits and pieces I had removed to do the under bonnet painting (coil, battery etc etc).

Have a great weekend everyone.

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A bit more pottering around this morning.

- fixed the oil pressure gauge (see my sub thread in Basic Technical Help)

- refitted the freshly painted strap/clamp that holds the washer reservoir in place.

- generally cleaned up the washer pump itself

- cleaned the reservoir and cap (then refilled it obviously)

- fixed a leak from my NSF brake caliper. It had a minor leak at the bleed nipple.

Have a good afternoon.

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Simple, priceless wee fixes, dont cost the earth, but make a huge difference, nice wee project, keep at it

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OK, its been a painful week... well more frustrating than painful to be honest.

Ever since I stripped and rebuilt the front calipers I have had a tiny, but persistent leak from both bleed nipples...

Long story short: both were sheared off and rusted solid when I got the car. I drilled them out (oversize), forgetting that the bottom of the hole was angles to seal on the face of the bleed screw (Doh!). So when I fitted a larger bleed screw, it would not seal and simply leaked past the threads. (Being tight) my solution was to buy some of these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Banjo-Bolt-Bleed-Nipple-Screw-M10-x-1-00mm/181584150239?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

The idea was sound (accordingly to my tiny mind anyway), but presumable I had not tapped the new threeads exactly squasre to the caliper face and they still weeped past the body thread. My solution, use these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DOWTY-BONDED-SEAL-WASHER-M8-M10-M12-M14-M16-M18-M20-M22-M24-VARIOUS-QTY/262034371902?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=560821842335&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 

They are designed for high pressure applications such as hydraulics, so in theory they are OK. I got round to fitting them today and hey presto, no more leaks - thank the Lord!

Then the PITA bit...

Encouraged by the solving of the caliper problem, I proceeded to bleed both fronts (again).N/S done, no issue, moved across to the N/S - again no issues until I asked my Son to test the pedal one more time - then 'pop', one of the flares on a cross bulkhead pipe let go. Great... So off with it, trim the end, reflare, refit and of course bleed all four corners. While bleed the NSR I noticed a weeping from the 'T' piece on the rear axle. This failed to stop on pinching up the fitting a bit more, so off that came too. Same problem, the flare had almost disappeared - argghhh!

OK, so patience is a virtue I told myself. Off with that pipe too, reflare and refit - then bleed all four corners again!!!! :rolleyes:

This time I noticed a very slow drip from the rigid pipe on the rear axle to the flexi in front - blimey this is torture lol - so yep, get it off, reflare it, refit it and yep.... bleed all four corners AGAIN...

I am now a fully fledged expert in bleeding Cav Coupe brakes with a Gunsons Eezibleed (as my Son cleared off after the first pipe failed :D - he must have known what was coming lol)

Anyway, many deep breaths and calming coffees later, I now have four brakes that now retain fluid and a pedal that feels firm and does not gradually sink to the floor.

Happy days, now onward and upwards  :D  :thumbup 

 

Edited by IanMc
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Hi ian. My mate had a similar problem with a viva caliper last year when he also drilled out a nipple.he did eventually get it to seal with a tapered dremil bit on the angled seat but it took a fair bit of trying.

What tool are you using to flare ? . Please try to be sure your flares are good and the right size.it would be a shame or disaster if one popped whilst going down a steep hill.also what pipe are you using.copper,cupro-nickel or steel ? 

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Chris, I’m using Halfords Copper tubing this time. It’s not as good (in my opinion) as some I used on my last Coupe - can’t remember where I got that from...

With hindsight maybe the flares were a bit small, but the (softer?) tubing seems to be almost pulling through if the fittings are done up too tight. Perhaps I just don’t know my own strength these days 😂

Anyway, everything seems fine now and I am very aware of the consequences if something is not correct - hence my earlier double and triple checking.

Thanks for your input though matey, it’s always greatly appreciated 👍

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 One possible issue is the flaring tool is 'pinching' the pipe too thin, where the flare is being squeezed onto the end of the brake pipe the tool might be drawing the copper pipe out too thin, cheap flaring tools are a bit difficult to use, i have had success with them but you have to be carefull what your doing, many times i've had to start again when making a pipe.

 A friend who has another workshop near me has an expensive flaring kit, it's very nice and makes most types of flare effortlessly, best of all he said i can borrow it when i need to make brake pipes, RESULT !

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I think that I am nearing the end of the first third of this project. Before I started this, I decided to split the project up into parts that I could focus on and (hopefully) achieve without feeling too overwhelmed by the whole bigger picture. My thinking was that this way, one of the ends was always going to be in sight. So I split it up as follows:

1) Try to get all major systems working again.

2) Tackle the bodywork.

3) Interior and exterior revamp i.e. respray etc

 

So, with the above in mind, I thought it was a good time to take stock and see where we are and how far I have come in the 3 moths that I have had the car.

When the car arrived, it was:

- Not running (engine seized and ignition system 'messy')

- Not driving (all of the brakes were virtually seized solid and the auto box was an unknown quantity)

- Barely any electrical components working

- Full of rust holes

The car now:

- Engine running

- Braking system overhauled and fully functional

- all electrics now working, with the exception of the alternator that is not charging the battery (diode pack suspected)

- A running, driving, stopping vehicle for the first time in (suspected) 17-18 years.

- Still full of rust holes :lol:

 

So to finish off the first third, my next job is to overhaul the Alternator...

Have a good week everyone

 

 

 

Edited by IanMc
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when you pull open the alernator watch out you dont loose the brush springs.they tend to fly out!. other than that its an easy enough one to work on and any advice you need is waiting. 

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11 hours ago, IanMc said:

2) Tackle the bodywork

:P one step ahead of you on a new project, well i will be another 6 months, but getting there! Took the whole of jan off, might take feb too, if it gets any colder., weird that i went about it the same way, Cih engine sat for 15 years, got it going, low mileage one owner manta b, sorted all the wee bits bulbs switches, first. Its now stripped, and at bodywork stage.

Stage three is engine, axle,  and front suspension rebuild, then brakes, then finally prep for paint, then the fun bit!

Understand why you went about this way, keep up the great work!

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1 hour ago, ®evo03 said:

:P one step ahead of you on a new project, well i will be another 6 months, but getting there! Took the whole of jan off, might take feb too, if it gets any colder., weird that i went about it the same way, Cih engine sat for 15 years, got it going, low mileage one owner manta b, sorted all the wee bits bulbs switches, first. Its now stripped, and at bodywork stage.

Stage three is engine, axle,  and front suspension rebuild, then brakes, then finally prep for paint, then the fun bit!

Understand why you went about this way, keep up the great work!

What a coincidence - I bet yours turns out better than mine will though :)

Good luck!

1 hour ago, cam.in.head said:

when you pull open the alernator watch out you dont loose the brush springs.they tend to fly out!. other than that its an easy enough one to work on and any advice you need is waiting. 

Thanks Chris, to be honest I was rather hoping that you would chip in at this point :)

I am ready and waiting for your help with this job.

Shall I pull the alternator off, then strip it down, then wait for your help with the testing etc?

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hi ian. ok thats no problem il guide you through it

first is it still on the car and wired up.? .if so can you confirm the following please

that the main 12v power cable is connected to the big nut on the back and the short earth lead is connected between the mounting bracket and the alternator case..the thin blue/white warning lamp wire is connected to the terminal marked IND and if yours is the type with the double terminal side plug that it has a link across from BAT to the main 12v cable.

if thats all wired correct the battery light should be on when ign is on and go off if you unplug the blue/white wire.

ign lamp should also light up if you touch this wire to the casing.

i assume the fault you have is that the light stays on when engine is running or revved up and voltmeter shows 12v only or lower .

if so we are correct in it being faulty.i think we got to this point a while back but worth double checking. 

next comes stage two ! ! !

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Thanks Chris!

Here is a photo of the back of the Alternator taken this morning while it is still bolted into the car.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

'Yes', you are correct about the warning light being on constantly and the gauge never reading above 12v

Thanks in advance for your help.

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hi ian.cannot get pictures as im a forum member only! if you still have my email can you send it there please and il have a look.i think you are probably right about alternator being faulty but you never know.

so if light is on and goes off when unplugged this will confirm warning light circuit to dashboard is not shorted to earth.and if the connections are ok then we will start the dismantling. il look at picture when it arrives and advise from there. 

cheers ian. ...........

chris.

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hi ian.got the picture.it all looks ok.does the light go out when you unplug the blue/white wire ? . if so then lets get on with the job !.remove alternator.

there are various videos on youtube showing this unit or similar variants to get an idea of whats involved.search for gm alternator or delco 10si are very similar in construction.if you wish or we can just do it anyway.

the body is in two parts which sandwich the stator inbetween(the static windings).mark the casing with pop marks or scratch lines as you wish to ensure correct reassembly.remove the three bolts and pull the front section of case off.make sure the stator stays with the back section rather than the front so no wires are broken.

when it comes apart watch for flying brush tension springs (2) 

recover springs 

undo the three stator wires from the rectifier and gently remove the stator.

noting any screws that have nylon insulators on them and ones which dont undo the screws holding the long black diode trio and the triangular voltage regulator,brushes .then undo the big remaining item,the rectifier.1 screw inside and nuts and insulators on outside .some alternators also have an additional supressor capacitor inside but yours had one outside .

you should now have a pile of bits.

when you get to this stage let me know . cheers ian.

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Thanks again Chris.

It will probably be Wednesday evening now before I get to this stage...

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just to let you know.when you get to the last bit.removing the rectifier (the big silver and black part)it can be tested in place and you dont realy need to remove it if you dont want to unless its all dirty inside and needs a clean .the tests can be done with it in place if needs be

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The Alternator is off the car and split in two. 

Now I am waiting patiently for the expert help of Chris (cam.in.head) to guide me through the test and refurb process.

Chris, I have E-mailed you these photos as I know that will not be able to see them posted on the forum.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Have a good evening everyone.

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