Ems Posted July 22, 2018 Share Posted July 22, 2018 How easy is it to change the input bearing on the 5 speed box? There's a noise from the gearbox area when idling which stops when the clutch pedal is pressed a few people have said it's the input bearing. From looking at the book of Haynes it looks like it can be changed without dismantling the gearbox. It goes on about spacers for the bearing - would it be ok to use what's there already? Also is it a difficult job to remove the gearbox from under the car, it's on the drive so there's no lifts, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted July 22, 2018 Share Posted July 22, 2018 Is the not your release bearing? Never championed removing box with engine in place without, removing top not on shock, top nut on inner chassis leg, engine bay, calipers, after this a bit of magic, lifting the car, really high, supporting it the lowering front beem, with engine and box, give you just enough wiggle room. Gm fitted all these by car being five foot in the air, eng, box and front suspension lifted to meet it. The bulk head is designed to clear gearbox only, not for removal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted July 23, 2018 Share Posted July 23, 2018 One way to confirm if its the release bearing is put the car up on ramps at front. SECURELY.then with handbrake securely apllied with the engine idling pull the gearbox clutch fork rearwards to lift the bearing off the clutch cover fingers.if the noise dissapears then its definately the release bearing ,if it doesnt then its the gearbox input bearing.(no idea myself it you can just change this as simply as unbolting the cover and removing the shaft,i would have thought it may be interlocked with something further in vut ive never dismantled a 5 speed box) if the clutch fork wont move rearwards then it most likely needs adjusting at the pivot bolt so you can do the test properly ! the arm moves up tight against the housing if its not or never has / been wrongly adjusted !) a better option over ramps would be having the car up on a garage lift if you can . Safer all round. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowy Posted July 23, 2018 Share Posted July 23, 2018 (edited) On 22/07/2018 at 18:29, Ems said: How easy is it to change the input bearing on the 5 speed box? There's a noise from the gearbox area when idling which stops when the clutch pedal is pressed a few people have said it's the input bearing. From looking at the book of Haynes it looks like it can be changed without dismantling the gearbox. It goes on about spacers for the bearing - would it be ok to use what's there already? Also is it a difficult job to remove the gearbox from under the car, it's on the drive so there's no lifts, etc. I've changed the clutch on the drive with the car on ramps on a GTE. You can easily separate the engine and box and as long as you raised the car high enough slide the gearbox out to work on it. The issues isn't getting it out at all, assuming you have a decent set of tools. The fun part is lifting it back in trying to align the input shaft with the clutch etc. That's why I wouldn't recommend it unless you have a pit or lift with the correct gearbox jack etc. A manta five speed box is really light until you're on your back in a confined space trying to lift it into position. Now saying that it can be done. But either drop the subframe or just take the engine and box out as one piece and split them on the floor. I forgot to add. Since you have to take the box out to get to the release bearing or the front bearing. Don't bother trying to diagnose it in the car. Just get it out and check it properly. Edited July 23, 2018 by Snowy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
611 Posted July 23, 2018 Share Posted July 23, 2018 (edited) As suggested drop the whole lot and then take the box off as you can easily split the box under the car but you will spend more time trying to get it out than you would dropping the whole lot and its a real bugger trying to get it back on under the car. Changed my bearing as it had a sort of whine to it. But it was so long ago i cant remember how hard it was. Got the full exploded view of the box here. http://www.theopelproject.com/?page_id=223 and this is what the inside is like http://www.theopelproject.com/?p=633 Its very easy to split the box and get it back its just getting the 3 selectors rods back in-line to pop into their locating holes which is a pain. I think popping the bearing on was relitivly easy i just remember spending ages trying to work out why it wouldn't pop back together and then discovered the selector rods weren't lining up. You can see them on the pic looking into the box. Had mine apart twice now :-) and all gone back ok. Hope some of this helps. Andy Edited July 23, 2018 by 611 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted July 23, 2018 Share Posted July 23, 2018 2 hours ago, Snowy said: A manta five speed box is really light until you're on your back in a confined space trying to lift it into position Been there before, , never again! Nightmare, sweat, red oil, blood Front lower valance must need to be three foot off the ground, to get all out. I can get every bolt out no problem, Would like to see a step by step guide of how to get a 5speed out with engine in place! Without dropping front cradle, Bell housing fouls the bulk head, box tunnel. As the shaft needs to clear the pressure plate, thats approx 5 inches, there is no way the top of the box has 5 inches of clearance, anyone prove me wrong, step by step guide with pics, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowy Posted July 23, 2018 Share Posted July 23, 2018 10 minutes ago, ®evo03 said: Been there before, , never again! Nightmare, sweat, red oil, blood Front lower valance must need to be three foot off the ground, to get all out. I can get every bolt out no problem, Would like to see a step by step guide of how to get a 5speed out with engine in place! Without dropping front cradle, Bell housing fouls the bulk head, box tunnel. As the shaft needs to clear the pressure plate, thats approx 5 inches, there is no way the top of the box has 5 inches of clearance, anyone prove me wrong, step by step guide with pics, You tilt the engine back. In fact I rested it on a thin piece of wood against the bulkhead. But if you really want to see it take your manta to a decent clutch centre. They will show you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted July 23, 2018 Share Posted July 23, 2018 Em, no ta,, they wouldnt even know what a manta is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantaray Posted July 23, 2018 Share Posted July 23, 2018 It can be done, But I find it quicker to just drop the whole front setup with engine and box. You will need a big jack tho, as the front of the car needs to be high to give clearance for the engine to roll out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
611 Posted July 23, 2018 Share Posted July 23, 2018 1 hour ago, Snowy said: You tilt the engine back. In fact I rested it on a thin piece of wood against the bulkhead. But if you really want to see it take your manta to a decent clutch centre. They will show you. Did the same as you with the wood the first time, still a bugger to do but as you say it is possible :-) Now i do it with the whole front end out with engine and box on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted July 24, 2018 Share Posted July 24, 2018 Anyone any smart ideas on how to get a manta four feet off the ground at the front without, a lift! Modifying a manta with useful mods, thinking of wrc style triangle stands. Fitting new extra strength jacking points, thinking of changing the tube angle, and adding strength, to inner floor, and sill area. But if im doing it to any other manta, its coming out as pic above, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ems Posted July 24, 2018 Author Share Posted July 24, 2018 It can rattle and leak for a while longer, my drive isn't flat or secure so this job will have to wait. I'll sort out the prop and the oil seals either end and put it back on the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eldoradoCoupe Posted July 24, 2018 Share Posted July 24, 2018 I refitted my front cross member recently. Hoisted the whole front of the car up using an engine pulley and just wheeled it in. My car is still partially stripped so I attached the pulley hook to a piece of box section bolted in place of the bumper bar. Front end not that heavy if your leaving the box and engine on the ground though so I'm sure a bit of fiddling could see a hook attached somewhere without removing the bumper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
611 Posted July 24, 2018 Share Posted July 24, 2018 When i did the underneath of my A i had it up on some of these. Scaffolding stands. I had the engine, box out and dropped the diff while it was in the air. They are pretty stable and had no issues with it moving about. Did the full underneath and re-attached the axel and then lowered it back on the ground when ready. Did it on my own so it was a bit of fun, helps if you have someone that can give you a hand. I jacked it up on some big axel stands then built a platform and jacked it up enough to get the stands in. welded, painted the whole floor, did the fuel pipes and exhaust. It was so easy to get to all the stuff with it that far off the ground. Andy You can just see the stands in this shot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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