Jessopia74 Posted September 19 Share Posted September 19 Like the Elecrolysus bath 👍 Yeah, it’s quite surprising how fast that fly rust (flash rust) takes hold when the oxygen hits the surface. Get that with after steam cleaning / chemical cleaning down at the garage. The cam ledge is more a sprocket retainer/timing mark part tbh, it does nothing for the chain retention as such, but never seen them bent (only missing lol) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H-400 Posted September 21 Share Posted September 21 Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. I'v seen this before. Happens when someone turns the engine while the sprocket lays on this ledge. The sharp teeth of the sprocket stuck in it and the chain puls the sprocket down. Nothing a pair of pliers can't fix. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mepbowles Posted September 24 Author Share Posted September 24 Cheers Herman, I figured it was fairly cosmetic. If I can get a free spare I will but otherwise pliers and grips will do. I've got to get on the phone to get the head and block booked in and then crack on with stripping the head. I'm not sure I'll try electrolysis on it to save any machined surfaces. Perhaps just a little molasses this time or wire brushes and rust remover Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mepbowles Posted October 5 Author Share Posted October 5 Happy days, I've been focusing on tidying the house, getting rid of clutter and rejigging my son's room but I had a nice surprise when I saw a large parcel arrive for me. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. My £100 to someone from Ireland on Facebook has netted me an 8 weight crankshaft with bearings (just in case), stripped from his 1.6 that wasn't selling. I also got an exhaust heat shield and a timing chain guide that looks in worse condition than mine 😆 Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. The heat shield looks a little crusty in places but It'll be a nice reason to fire up the sandblaster. I need to double check where, how and if it fits but happy days. Now I have no excuse not to call up some machining folks to get the honing, balancing and hardened valve seats done. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted October 5 Share Posted October 5 Decent price that , good find 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mepbowles Posted October 22 Author Share Posted October 22 Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.I started stripping the head today, removing the valves. After looking up how to use the tool, I set to work and valve 1 came out easily. Valve 2 (exhaust valve), was a pig and it bent the compressor tool. Valve 3 vent it further and valve 4 won't even come out because it's too bent to have meaningful pressure. It won't even fit back in it's box. Are there any recommendations on valve spring compressors that won't bend? Or could I hammer it back to square and heat treat with a blow torch? I'll see if I can hound the seller for a refund but it's probably been too long. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted October 22 Share Posted October 22 Make sure you smack the retaining cap with a hammer on both sides first to break the seating with the collets before clamping 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted October 22 Share Posted October 22 yes they tend to get a bit tight after years of beat cycles but a lot of the modern tools are a bit flimsy to say the least. try to find an old tool or easy enough to make one up that uses the rocker stud as the gm tool does. il see if i can find a picture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mepbowles Posted October 23 Author Share Posted October 23 19 hours ago, Jessopia74 said: Make sure you smack the retaining cap with a hammer on both sides first to break the seating with the collets before clamping I'm slowly coming round to the idea that smacking things with hammers is an acceptable practice. I thought the right application of force with the correct tool was the way to go but I forget the modern tools are made for modern engines that have been regularly serviced, not old engines set in their ways. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted October 23 Share Posted October 23 34 minutes ago, mepbowles said: I'm slowly coming round to the idea that smacking things with hammers is an acceptable practice. I thought the right application of force with the correct tool was the way to go but I forget the modern tools are made for modern engines that have been regularly serviced, not old engines set in their ways. I been rebuilding engines for a long time mate and this was always 'normal' to crack the carbon seal on the Cap to collects 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted October 23 Share Posted October 23 i have a pic of the proper gm tool but cannot post pictures . its basically a small plate with two holes in it .one smaller hole fits on a rocker stud and larger hole over valve cap .tighten rocker nut ,tap valve end and tighten further . valve cap comes off ! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted October 23 Share Posted October 23 (edited) you just need to rest the head on a mat to hold the valve up ! Edited October 23 by cam.in.head Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H-400 Posted October 23 Share Posted October 23 31 minutes ago, cam.in.head said: i have a pic of the proper gm tool but cannot post pictures this one: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Made it also myself. Easy to use. Edelschmiede sells them: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mepbowles Posted October 23 Author Share Posted October 23 Thanks all. I tried straightening it but my vice is awful. I got it so that I could get them off and they came off so much easier after a good tap. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. The cam doesn't look too bad either and should clean up well. I'm curious about the bits held in place with the circlips as well as the big Allen screws. I'm sure the manuals have something about them. Presumably the machine shop will want them out. Hopefully they don't want the cam bearings out as they look fine. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. If can degrease it today/tonight I might swing by the shop in person with my block and head for a quote. Otherwise photos will have to do. I might treat it to an electrolysis bath but I need to pressure wash my green bin first. It's very satisfying to have the engine completely stripped. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted October 23 Share Posted October 23 sorry cant see the pictures circlips ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mepbowles Posted October 23 Author Share Posted October 23 I think I mean the valve seats though Haynes says there are none. The intake valves seem to just be stubs but the exhaust have a retaining ring of some kind and the top looks detachable. Euroservice also shows they should be different heights when fully stripped. I don't think I'll touch them as it's probably a step too far. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted October 23 Share Posted October 23 cant see pictures but if you mean SEATS then early heads do not have any (just machined direct into head)and later ones have a machined insert ( possibly on both but definately on exhaust) not held with any circlips thou . but if you mean SEALS then early engines have a conventional sprung seal on the inlets and a stem sealing o ring on exhaust. later engines have a conventional sprung seal on both. technically different ( brown on exhaust,black on inlet)although replacements in overhaul sets are the same .the original black ones tend to go very hard and eventually fail. the brown ones last way longer but impossible to find! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted October 23 Share Posted October 23 Those are stem seals , only fitted to inlets. The exhaust have an o ring only on the shaft. They might be Rick hard, but they are rubber (or was) The machine shop won’t need the core plugs removed or the cam bearings. ‘Cam lmk if you still can’t see pic I attached Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gt/e paul Posted October 25 Share Posted October 25 dont forget to fit the oil level raiser tube in the hole at the rear of the head Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mepbowles Posted October 26 Author Share Posted October 26 On 25/10/2024 at 11:49, gt/e paul said: dont forget to fit the oil level raiser tube in the hole at the rear of the head Yes I won't, I've been told it's just interference fit but feel a little skeptical about leaving a possible solid chunk of metal rolling around in there after a big bump 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gt/e paul Posted October 27 Share Posted October 27 It is indeed a very tight interference fit. I warmed up the area of the head up with a blowtorch and put the tube into the freezer. One expanded and one contracted . I was able to place it over the hole and using a g clamp press it into position. I've also seen on forums people use a piece of 15mm copper pipe Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted October 27 Share Posted October 27 thats pretty much all the oem one is realy ! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gt/e paul Posted November 6 Share Posted November 6 On 27/10/2024 at 22:02, cam.in.head said: thats pretty much all the oem one is realy ! ah i see i actually hadnt realised they had been fitted oem . i take it much later in production. ill have to see if my gt/e has one 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted November 6 Share Posted November 6 31 minutes ago, gt/e paul said: ah i see i actually hadnt realised they had been fitted oem . i take it much later in production. ill have to see if my gt/e has one Later had them, it’s like a wrapped tube of spring steel though. But earlier cars did not, so always worth a check 👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted November 6 Share Posted November 6 they are a good idea in principle and obviously the reason gm fitted them was to reduce wear on SOME of the cam lobes but i wonder if the downside to having a bath of hot oil sat inside your cylinder head would be eccessive oil fumes at high temperatures or during a long motorway run like the 2.2 is sometimes prone to ? . i dont recall a 1.6 or early 2 litre do this ? ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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