®evo03 Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 Is there a better type of bolt to replace them with, torx head, stainless steel. ??? Or just clean, and copper grease, or high temp grease. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mepbowles Posted February 12 Author Share Posted February 12 On 26/01/2024 at 17:18, cam.in.head said: cant say ive ever had a problem with the manifold bolts. just a 15mm on an extension and they come straight out. obviously you dont know if someone loctited them or did them stupid tight before you ? you need m12 and m8 ( or is it m6 ?) spline not torx. So it turns out I had already bought a nice spine socket set but it's been so long and the garage is such a cramped mess I bought another! It's not the manifold to block bolts,it's the ones connecting the inlet to the exhaust. They look like they're just hex bolts but they weren't budging. Unfortunately my wife has decreed the kitchen floor has to be done before I progress further with the car. Though I do have a few weeks off work coming up where I might be able to fit some work in. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted February 12 Share Posted February 12 you mentioned earlier about cylinder head boltswhich would be splined on an earlier engine and allen head on later ones. splined type reuseable and dont need angle tightening ( just normal 3 stage torque up and retorque after 500 m) the manifold joiner bolts are just allen headed on mine and can be very tight possibly due to steel bolts thru aluminum into cast ! recepie for seizing there ! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mepbowles Posted February 16 Author Share Posted February 16 Yes my cylinder head bolts are splined, though there are two diddy ones at the fan/pulley end that also wouldn't budge. I always figured the exhaust manifold was going to be a problem, as it's very rusty and especially with the heat. No idea what the best solution is but I'll almost certainly need new bolts. I'm currently stumped by how to get the water pump off without an 11mm ring spanner as the pulley is in the way of my socket and my box spanner, and I don't hold hope getting the pulley off easily either. Perhaps a garage was the best shout! 😆 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H-400 Posted February 16 Share Posted February 16 It is possible to change the waterpump without removing the pulley: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. as you mentioned, a ring spanner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted February 16 Share Posted February 16 as above. waterpump lower bolt should remove fine with crank pulley on ( if its the std pressed steel one , if someonehas fitted a larger one from a gte or carlton it should be still possible just a little more fiddly. )make sure you get plenty of wd into and around the lower bolt as they are prone to snapping. massage it gently backwards and forwards if req . however if req pulley bolt should come out ok and pulley will pull off by hand. its keyed on . if removed worth changing the front seal whilst its off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mepbowles Posted March 11 Author Share Posted March 11 Thanks all. I finally used my impact sockets and the pulley and pump came off in no time. I'm stripping the engine all the way down so the pulley had to come off anyway. Lovely corrosion there from sitting fluid. With the £1200 garage quote I'm saving I might treat it to a dipping and refinishing if it's worth it to get all the rubbish out. Otherwise some wire brushes or molasses bath will have to do. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted March 11 Share Posted March 11 Good job👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H-400 Posted March 11 Share Posted March 11 Well done Matt, also the moment to fit a new cranckshaft oil seal. But what I like on your picture is that I found out finally what special part I'v got in one of those plastic vegetable boxes in my garage. Thought it was for the clutch cable: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Now I see it on the front of your head to fix the feul line and maybe the vacuum of the dizzy? 👍 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mepbowles Posted March 12 Author Share Posted March 12 18 hours ago, H-400 said: Well done Matt, also the moment to fit a new cranckshaft oil seal. But what I like on your picture is that I found out finally what special part I'v got in one of those plastic vegetable boxes in my garage. Thought it was for the clutch cable: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Now I see it on the front of your head to fix the feul line and maybe the vacuum of the dizzy? 👍 Yes, it clips the vacuum and fuel went through that, glad you've found the use for it. The Haynes Manual says I need to line the engine up to TDC or whatever the instruction is. Is it really that important if I'm going to likely be rebuilding it completely? Can I just unbolt it or should I reattach the pulley and turn it by hand. (I know the little voice in my head is just saying do it properly for the experience and as it's not much more effort but I'm still curious as to whether it really matters if it's all getting stripped. I guess I might not remove the pistons but heh 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H-400 Posted March 12 Share Posted March 12 To put the engine in TDC youlook at the back of the engine block, your drivers side. There's a hole: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. You'v got to line the mark of the flywheel with the rivet of the arrow. The arrow is 5° to set the ignition (as on picture). It is important to set the engine at TDC, cause then you can unbolt the bolts of the head. The cam has got a special shape that allows the headbolts to pass the cam: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Also to refit the timing chain and sprockets TDC is important. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted March 12 Share Posted March 12 Why TDC for removing replacing water pump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mepbowles Posted March 12 Author Share Posted March 12 2 hours ago, ®evo03 said: Why TDC for removing replacing water pump? I'm not replacing the water pump (though I might if it doesn't come up well. I'm stripping the whole engine and removing it for checking, machining, refinishing and rebuilding with new bearings. Currently considering buying some used 2.0 pistons and bore out to 2.0 bore but probably won't bother as I suppose it would involve new head or additional headwork. Thanks Herman, I thought there would be a reason for aligning before disassembly other than just making assembly easier. I'm fitting the kitchen floor tomorrow so after that I hope I'll have curried enough favour to make more progress here. I'm sure there will be more tasks though. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted March 12 Share Posted March 12 It is important to set the engine at TDC, cause then you can unbolt the bolts of the head. The cam has got a special shape that allows the headbolts to pass the cam: 👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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