®evo03 Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 Is there a better type of bolt to replace them with, torx head, stainless steel. ??? Or just clean, and copper grease, or high temp grease. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mepbowles Posted February 12 Author Share Posted February 12 On 26/01/2024 at 17:18, cam.in.head said: cant say ive ever had a problem with the manifold bolts. just a 15mm on an extension and they come straight out. obviously you dont know if someone loctited them or did them stupid tight before you ? you need m12 and m8 ( or is it m6 ?) spline not torx. So it turns out I had already bought a nice spine socket set but it's been so long and the garage is such a cramped mess I bought another! It's not the manifold to block bolts,it's the ones connecting the inlet to the exhaust. They look like they're just hex bolts but they weren't budging. Unfortunately my wife has decreed the kitchen floor has to be done before I progress further with the car. Though I do have a few weeks off work coming up where I might be able to fit some work in. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted February 12 Share Posted February 12 you mentioned earlier about cylinder head boltswhich would be splined on an earlier engine and allen head on later ones. splined type reuseable and dont need angle tightening ( just normal 3 stage torque up and retorque after 500 m) the manifold joiner bolts are just allen headed on mine and can be very tight possibly due to steel bolts thru aluminum into cast ! recepie for seizing there ! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mepbowles Posted February 16 Author Share Posted February 16 Yes my cylinder head bolts are splined, though there are two diddy ones at the fan/pulley end that also wouldn't budge. I always figured the exhaust manifold was going to be a problem, as it's very rusty and especially with the heat. No idea what the best solution is but I'll almost certainly need new bolts. I'm currently stumped by how to get the water pump off without an 11mm ring spanner as the pulley is in the way of my socket and my box spanner, and I don't hold hope getting the pulley off easily either. Perhaps a garage was the best shout! 😆 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H-400 Posted February 16 Share Posted February 16 It is possible to change the waterpump without removing the pulley: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. as you mentioned, a ring spanner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted February 16 Share Posted February 16 as above. waterpump lower bolt should remove fine with crank pulley on ( if its the std pressed steel one , if someonehas fitted a larger one from a gte or carlton it should be still possible just a little more fiddly. )make sure you get plenty of wd into and around the lower bolt as they are prone to snapping. massage it gently backwards and forwards if req . however if req pulley bolt should come out ok and pulley will pull off by hand. its keyed on . if removed worth changing the front seal whilst its off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mepbowles Posted March 11 Author Share Posted March 11 Thanks all. I finally used my impact sockets and the pulley and pump came off in no time. I'm stripping the engine all the way down so the pulley had to come off anyway. Lovely corrosion there from sitting fluid. With the £1200 garage quote I'm saving I might treat it to a dipping and refinishing if it's worth it to get all the rubbish out. Otherwise some wire brushes or molasses bath will have to do. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted March 11 Share Posted March 11 Good job👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H-400 Posted March 11 Share Posted March 11 Well done Matt, also the moment to fit a new cranckshaft oil seal. But what I like on your picture is that I found out finally what special part I'v got in one of those plastic vegetable boxes in my garage. Thought it was for the clutch cable: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Now I see it on the front of your head to fix the feul line and maybe the vacuum of the dizzy? 👍 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mepbowles Posted March 12 Author Share Posted March 12 18 hours ago, H-400 said: Well done Matt, also the moment to fit a new cranckshaft oil seal. But what I like on your picture is that I found out finally what special part I'v got in one of those plastic vegetable boxes in my garage. Thought it was for the clutch cable: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Now I see it on the front of your head to fix the feul line and maybe the vacuum of the dizzy? 👍 Yes, it clips the vacuum and fuel went through that, glad you've found the use for it. The Haynes Manual says I need to line the engine up to TDC or whatever the instruction is. Is it really that important if I'm going to likely be rebuilding it completely? Can I just unbolt it or should I reattach the pulley and turn it by hand. (I know the little voice in my head is just saying do it properly for the experience and as it's not much more effort but I'm still curious as to whether it really matters if it's all getting stripped. I guess I might not remove the pistons but heh 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H-400 Posted March 12 Share Posted March 12 To put the engine in TDC youlook at the back of the engine block, your drivers side. There's a hole: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. You'v got to line the mark of the flywheel with the rivet of the arrow. The arrow is 5° to set the ignition (as on picture). It is important to set the engine at TDC, cause then you can unbolt the bolts of the head. The cam has got a special shape that allows the headbolts to pass the cam: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Also to refit the timing chain and sprockets TDC is important. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted March 12 Share Posted March 12 Why TDC for removing replacing water pump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mepbowles Posted March 12 Author Share Posted March 12 2 hours ago, ®evo03 said: Why TDC for removing replacing water pump? I'm not replacing the water pump (though I might if it doesn't come up well. I'm stripping the whole engine and removing it for checking, machining, refinishing and rebuilding with new bearings. Currently considering buying some used 2.0 pistons and bore out to 2.0 bore but probably won't bother as I suppose it would involve new head or additional headwork. Thanks Herman, I thought there would be a reason for aligning before disassembly other than just making assembly easier. I'm fitting the kitchen floor tomorrow so after that I hope I'll have curried enough favour to make more progress here. I'm sure there will be more tasks though. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted March 12 Share Posted March 12 It is important to set the engine at TDC, cause then you can unbolt the bolts of the head. The cam has got a special shape that allows the headbolts to pass the cam: 👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mepbowles Posted May 1 Author Share Posted May 1 Manifolds off and head off I'm back at work so hope to use my lunch breaks to get more work done. I couldn't separate them easily so I've just taken them both off. The engine bay looks so empty without the ancillaries. It may have involved some creative use of extender bars on my impact driver but it's off. It's tempting to go full stainless and then wrap it but I definitely want to clean everything up and give it some paint. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. With that going well I thought the head would be easy too. I messed up TDC the first time and then forgot a bolt despite checking twice! After tapping a few times ai checked a third time and realised my mistake. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. At the very least the head will get an unleaded conversion and a clean up, recommendations welcome. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. There's what looks like rubbing on the cylinder but it feels smooth so I'll check it Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. I need to hit gym or do some press ups before next week so I have the strength to lift the block out. For my birthday, I convinced my wife to let me collect a branded engine stand for £30 from a local farm industrial estate. I don't mind hiring a crane for a day to put it back in but having something to build it up on will be great. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted May 2 Share Posted May 2 Makes all the difference having an engine stand for sure, good find👍 Going well with the strip, looks like water pump came off with no drama so that’s one of the potential problems areas good. That cylinder wall is definitely needing some attention, might hone out - but check bores for ovality too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Pounsett Posted May 2 Share Posted May 2 15 hours ago, Jessopia74 said: Makes all the difference having an engine stand for sure, good find👍 Going well with the strip, looks like water pump came off with no drama so that’s one of the potential problems areas good. That cylinder wall is definitely needing some attention, might hone out - but check bores for ovality too. This is definitely worthwhile if you can find a good shop. I’d also get it flush through and pressure tested. It’s not a lot of money and it’s always nice to have clean parts to work with when you’re refilling it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted May 3 Share Posted May 3 personally. if the engine was running fine before and didnt use oil or smoke i wouldnt be too worried. at 90000 ml everything should be ok to rebuild up. once you have cleaned the carbon lip off the top of the bore you should find only the slightest of wear ridge. these engines will happily run up to 150000 - 200000 if maintained and looked after. as mentioned ask a machine shop to check it for you if req .but this can be like going to some tyre shops ( needs sorting mate !) obviously it will have some wear at the mileage and not be as good as when it was new but thats true at any mileage realy ! my carlton 2.2 is on its original bore,pistons and rings and only needed the big end shells replacing 10 years ago when i rebuilt it. even they were only just showing wear and would have survived untouched ! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gt/e paul Posted May 6 Share Posted May 6 On 11/03/2024 at 20:51, H-400 said: Well done Matt, also the moment to fit a new cranckshaft oil seal. But what I like on your picture is that I found out finally what special part I'v got in one of those plastic vegetable boxes in my garage. Thought it was for the clutch cable: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Now I see it on the front of your head to fix the feul line and maybe the vacuum of the dizzy? 👍 when i owned this cavalier i made that bracket as i didnt have a spare... ( copied from my other cavalier) only difference is its normal sheet steel rater than sprung steel but it done the job. brilliant work matt nice to see you getting stuck in . i always think fondly of this cavalier 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mepbowles Posted May 8 Author Share Posted May 8 Cheers all and thanks Paul. Trying to get it done when I can but never enough hours. I've tried looking for engine services and it's prompted alot of questions. Any recommendations for machine shops within about 50-100 miles of Maidenhead/High Wycombe? Questions I have about where to spend money: 1. I'd like to get an unleaded conversion but does that mean stripping the head and will it mean new parts like valves? 2. Does honing mean new piston rings and pistons or will the negligible difference be fine? 3. I'm likely to need to regrind the crankshaft. Should I also get it balanced for fuel efficiency and longevity? 4. Should I have the block and head skimmed for a better fit? I've heard of shops going through the water channels and ruining engines so abit wary. 5. Any other work I should consider for a nice reliable and fuel efficient engine? 6. Can I reuse the cam and followers or should I replace? 7. Is a degreaser, detergent and wire brushes really enough to get the engine sparkling from a pretty rusty and funky state? 8. Is dipping worth it and will engine shops insist on it even if it's been scrubbed? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted May 8 Share Posted May 8 1: try and buy an unleaded head, if not then it’s new harder seats. Or just use additives in your fuel. 2: new rings should be a given, they are relatively cheap. Rings wear faster than your bores. New Rings, gapped properly and light honed fire will be fine. You most likely won’t need new pistons, unless the block is very warm 3. Its is nice to have rather than necessary. The CIH does not rev high enough (top end limited) . Maybe your crank just needs a polish rather than re grind. 4. Don’t deck the block unless absolutely necessary. Taking a little off. The head is fine even if it does not need it as a little CR bump is instant low end torque. Max 20 thousands 5. Consider buying a good 2.2 or 2.4 bottom end would give instant results and potentially be the cheaper option than having all the work done. 6. Keep followers matched to the lobe! But cams are a wearing item, especially in early engines that don’t have a raised tube to keep them from oil starvation. A good used SR or GTE cam is nice little upgrade. But check your lobes wear against each other and the followers. Quick easy check is vernier Caliper on peak lift of lobe 7. Engine refurbishment should gave a parts washer, Hot chemical that can’t be beat. Usually very cheap to get your bit done. 8. As point 7. They should clean it, then tell them to wash it after to get rid of swarf. Can’t say I have ever known a place not do that Seriously consider asking for a good GTE head and a 2.2 short motor/engine etc as they will already have lead free. In all cases when you got your engine this stripped, minimum is new piston rings! 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted May 9 Share Posted May 9 (edited) all good advice above from jess and will result in a great engine . wether all of that is actually needed realy depends on how the engine was running before . i wouldnt have thought any crankshaft work or pistons would be needed at that mileage but as i mentioned earlier it depends on how its been looked after . if you want to change the rings then it depends on how much of a wear ridge is at the top of the bore to wether you fit stepped top ring or have the lip removed . (i personally would refit the originals unless out of spec)i assume its a 2 litre so an unleaded lead from a late gte (marked P2. from a carlto 1985, correct ideal head or a gte P2E head although this is just a skimmed version of a carb head to give the higher cr) be fitted.or if its anything else then you will need hardened exhaust seats. i wouldnt skim anything unless absolutely nexessary as you dont want to change the cr too much. ( hard enough getting them to run perfect on modern fuel as it is !) a gte cam may well help a little to bring the calve timing back to standard if theres any wear in the chain or if there has ever been a skim ( a gte cam is just an identical carburettor cam with a few degrees advance . no difference in duration or lift) and finally an electronic ignition system is a good upgrade afterwards. people fit a gte dissy which will work ok but the correct one is from a carlton 83-86 with a carb. very rare to find thou ! Edited May 9 by cam.in.head 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trooker Posted May 9 Share Posted May 9 @cam.in.head no i.d. numbers on this dizzy listing - can you tell by looking? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/335385036729 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted May 9 Share Posted May 9 25 minutes ago, Trooker said: @cam.in.head no i.d. numbers on this dizzy listing - can you tell by looking? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/335385036729 Good find. That looks to me like it’s from a Carb engine, as the fuel pump cam lobe is used ! you would need an amplifier and the loom. https://www.edelschmiede.com/shop/Kabelsatz-Kabelbaum-Transistorzuendung-Opel-4-Zyl-cih-20S-20E https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/355519630308 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted May 9 Share Posted May 9 yes i would 100% agree .definately from a carb engine which im pretty sure cf engines were( dont know if they were low comp ?) ( or as mentioned carlton 83-86 with carb). carb distributor for carlton .bosch 0237020042 JHFU4 (injection one 0237020040 JHFU4) this should make it the perfect choice for your engine .to be honest a gte one will also fit and work. just may be different curves for the injection ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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