Exhaust knocking aargh!

[Trooker]

My hatch may have been lowered previously & I have had an ongoing issue with the exhaust knocking on the panhard rod. 

Thing is, loads of Mantas are lowered & mine isn’t at all radical (if at all!). I can’t think everyone is running around trying to be cool with a knocking exhaust 🤪
 I’ve tried various hangers etc. I’m now wondering if the rear part is right for a hatch. i.e. could a coupe final silencer & over-axle bit kinda fit but not well & be the issue, or do I just have a Friday afternoon part?

[1200bandit]

Can you see any part numbers anywhere.if so see if it is correct exhaust 

[mantasrme]

Half the time a knocking exhaust is purely down to the alignment of it while fitting. You really need the rear axle at ride height and full access to all of the exhaust to get the fit right. A 4 post ramp is ideal for this but it can be done with axle stands too.

You need all the exhaust clamps loose and rotate the mid section to see what is the best position for the best clearance over the axle and past the panhard rod. Then you can do the back box. Often a little rotation of the mid section will get you that needed extra clearance, or even sliding it forwards/backwards a bit from where it is currently. This can lead to the rings that hold the mid box being loose one side which can be fixed either by different sized rings or by altering the hook on the box (easy enough to bend usualy)

 

[Trooker]

1 hour ago, 1200bandit said:

Can you see any part numbers anywhere.if so see if it is correct exhaust 

Good point!

8 minutes ago, mantasrme said:

Half the time a knocking exhaust is purely down to the alignment of it while fitting. You really need the rear axle at ride height and full access to all of the exhaust to get the fit right. A 4 post ramp is ideal for this but it can be done with axle stands too.

You need all the exhaust clamps loose and rotate the mid section to see what is the best position for the best clearance over the axle and past the panhard rod. Then you can do the back box. Often a little rotation of the mid section will get you that needed extra clearance, or even sliding it forwards/backwards a bit from where it is currently. This can lead to the rings that hold the mid box being loose one side which can be fixed either by different sized rings or by altering the hook on the box (easy enough to bend usualy)

 

Hadn’t thought about the effect of the front part. I did get a friendly guy in ATS to have a go when I fitted new tyres a while ago but to little avail. 
 

Axle stands it is!

thanks 👍

[®evo03]

Friday afternoon back box, or could be a hatch backbox, you might be onto something there, as its exactly where things change, above panhard rod. 

1 hour ago, Trooker said:

 I can’t think everyone is running around trying to be cool with a knocking exhaust 🤪

Is your stereo broken? Up full to 11 man! 

[Trooker]

Just now, ®evo03 said:

Friday afternoon back box, or could be a hatch backbox, you might be onto something there, as its exactly where things change, above panhard rod. 

Is your stereo broken? Up full to 11 man! 

Too much 11, the speakers are knackered 😂

[ANDY ABBOTT]

I've had this on a previous car. An easy temp/semi permanent fix is to strap some thick rubber over the pan hard rod 🙃

[cam.in.head]

i suppose theoretically you could fit a hatch centre and rear to a coupe accidentaly but not the other way around and certainly not a mix of the 2 models. the pipes would clear the axle correctly in either case but are bent totally different to clear the fuel tank.( and bent/ hung different at the back box) so it would be a  bugger to get right if at all.

i dont think this will be your issue but it could be a badly made part 

most likely however as mentioned earlier by mantasrme it sounds like you just need to readjust the centre and rear sliding joints.dont assume it needs to be fully slid into the joint ,adjust as required even to the point of bending the back box hanger rod if req. ive seem many a back box with this part welded on wrong or damaged in transit / bent.

the lowering shouldnt be an issue or cause .clearance should exist through all suspension movement extremes.

[Trooker]

3 hours ago, ANDY ABBOTT said:

I've had this on a previous car. An easy temp/semi permanent fix is to strap some thick rubber over the pan hard rod 🙃

I can see this being a short term fix until I can get it in the air on the drive but loaded as per David’s advice. 

3 hours ago, cam.in.head said:

i suppose theoretically you could fit a hatch centre and rear to a coupe accidentaly but not the other way around and certainly not a mix of the 2 models. the pipes would clear the axle correctly in either case but are bent totally different to clear the fuel tank.( and bent/ hung different at the back box) so it would be a  bugger to get right if at all.

i dont think this will be your issue but it could be a badly made part 

most likely however as mentioned earlier by mantasrme it sounds like you just need to readjust the centre and rear sliding joints.dont assume it needs to be fully slid into the joint ,adjust as required even to the point of bending the back box hanger rod if req. ive seem many a back box with this part welded on wrong or damaged in transit / bent.

the lowering shouldnt be an issue or cause .clearance should exist through all suspension movement extremes.

Good to have that confirmed including the bending bits too. 
Cheers 👍