Cavalier Coupe

[IanG]

Are Bosch Super W6 BC spark plugs ok for a 2.0 CIH?

Dont want to get them if they are not right, can’t find much on the interweb!

[Jessopia74]

@IanG take a read of compatibility list mate.

Personally, NGK are good and change more frequent. but you can go more exotic if you wish.

 

https://www.gsparkplug.com/ignition/spark-plugs?find=opel-1986-manta-b-cc-petrol-2-0-e-110-1031386177

 

[cam.in.head]

and dont necessaily set them at the original reccommended 30 thou.

dependent of the fuel you are using its worth experimenting.

i use ethanol free esso synergy 99. have the timing slightly more advanced than the std mark and run 35 thou. 

30 was always close to the mark even before the ethanol stuff came out. ( try setting them at 28 and hold the revs at a steady 2000  you will see what i mean !)

28 (on mine) gives a pronounced "kick" that dissapears at 32 and reappears at 40. thats on a varijet. with electronic ignition.

my 2.2 is less fussy but still seems happiest at 35

every car/ condition/wear/ fuel/ system slightly different.

 

[IanG]

2 minutes ago, cam.in.head said:

and dont necessaily set them at the original reccommended 30 thou.

dependent of the fuel you are using its worth experimenting.

i use ethanol free esso synergy 99. have the timing slightly more advanced than the std mark and run 35 thou. 

30 was always close to the mark even before the ethanol stuff came out. ( try setting them at 28 and hold the revs at a steady 2000  you will see what i mean !)

28 (on mine) gives a pronounced "kick" that dissapears at 32 and reappears at 40. thats on a varijet. with electronic ignition.

my 2.2 is less fussy but still seems happiest at 35

every car/ condition/wear/ fuel/ system slightly different.

 

Thanks for that, will try tweaking timing and gaps, like you say every engine is different, I’m thinking of electronic ignition to maybe do away with points what system do you use?

 

 

 

[cam.in.head]

i have the correct distributor / setup from a 83-86 carlton 2 litre carb engine. ( bosch 0237 020 042 JHFU4)these will be very hard to find now so the next easiest step is the manta gte unit. obviously the advance curves will be slightly different with it being for an injection engine but they should be close enough.

other alternative is an "electronic ignition conversion kit" but i would make that a last choice as the above bosch setup is a tried and trusted set up .

only mod you need to make is to run a constant 12v from ignition switch instead of the ballasted wire feed it now has.the unit is a fully self contained/ wired item with distributor pickup lead going to correct coil and trigger module on a bracket.

[cam.in.head]

also its up to you but i wouldnt bother with any of the multi electrode type plugs.ive tried them myself in two different engines and not noticed any running differences other than maybee a less smooth idle ?

bosch are fine and so are ngk,champion,delco .in a normal std engine i doubt there will be any noticeable differences.a good plug should easily last 10-15 k

sorry may have missed your reply.

did you find anything re the clonk ?

[IanG]

1 hour ago, cam.in.head said:

also its up to you but i wouldnt bother with any of the multi electrode type plugs.ive tried them myself in two different engines and not noticed any running differences other than maybee a less smooth idle ?

bosch are fine and so are ngk,champion,delco .in a normal std engine i doubt there will be any noticeable differences.a good plug should easily last 10-15 k

sorry may have missed your reply.

did you find anything re the clonk ?

No visible play in axle but sim in prop uj which is my next job, rad is off for repair tomorrow then fitting the new steering rack. Three weeks in and only drive it once, it was nice though lol.

[Jessopia74]

22 minutes ago, IanG said:

No visible play in axle but sim in prop uj which is my next job, rad is off for repair tomorrow then fitting the new steering rack. Three weeks in and only drive it once, it was nice though lol.

Well done for finding the issue! 

[IanG]

1 minute ago, Jessopia74 said:

Well done for finding the issue! 

Good advice saves hours of guessing g for which I’m grateful, still miss my T25 and HA but this is a good substitute!

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

[cam.in.head]

ah thats good glad you found something.

that will be the first time in 40 years that ive ever heard of a faulty propshaft uj on one of these cars. the prop runs pretty straight so they usually dont wear.but you never know a cars history. anything can fail i suppose.

are you going to rebuild or just fit a s/h prop. 

 

you had an HA ?    excellent .that will probably be something to get to restore in my retirement if there are any left .i would build it into a BT replica like my dad used to drive !

great cars (vans)

[IanG]

26 minutes ago, cam.in.head said:

ah thats good glad you found something.

that will be the first time in 40 years that ive ever heard of a faulty propshaft uj on one of these cars. the prop runs pretty straight so they usually dont wear.but you never know a cars history. anything can fail i suppose.

are you going to rebuild or just fit a s/h prop. 

 

you had an HA ?    excellent .that will probably be something to get to restore in my retirement if there are any left .i would build it into a BT replica like my dad used to drive !

great cars (vans)

Will look for a uj kit and rebuild, I dropped the prop tonight and the uj is as rough as a badgers arse, but also the pinion bearing and rubber are shot which may explain it.

One thing I am finding with this car is while it’s solid there are a fair few things that are now due for replacement but fair enough at 45 years old, enjoying getting my hands grubby after a few years off.

The HA was great, one owner from new, 30k, went to a good home, simple to work on, terrible to drive, forgot how bad the transverse leaf spring at the front was!

 

 

 

[IanG]

Is any part of Blydensteins works still running, or where else is good to go for porting the head and valves etc? Might want to upgrade the engine once the rest of the car is done.

Will need some advice on the 2.0 CIH, porting, bigger valves, exhaust, carb, etc, just want to improve torque and flexibility more than pure power output.

Already has a Weber 32/36 fitted.

Any advice welcomed!

 

[Jessopia74]

Careful with engine mods on std drive plate (for torque converter) with modded engine.

Been down that road with my very first SRB Auto ( in the 90s ) and the increases caused tearing/cracking. Had to swap to Manual.
I ran ported 2.0 head, Kent OP224 Cam, matched std manifold, Webber down draft from 3.0 capri with manual choke, std high CR, larger inlet valves, GTE exhaust manifold, Janspeed exhaust. I never had it Dyno in this state, but it was a pretty impressive improvement 😁

 

 

[cam.in.head]

considering that the boxes will be virtually identical you could always fit a 2.2( or higher) flexplate and torque converter.that way the plate will handle it and the lock up stall speed would be better ?

[Jessopia74]

32 minutes ago, cam.in.head said:

considering that the boxes will be virtually identical you could always fit a 2.2( or higher) flexplate and torque converter.that way the plate will handle it and the lock up stall speed would be better ?

Was it even different? 

[cam.in.head]

im pretty sure the torque converter would be otherwise the stall speeds would be surely wrong. i stand to becorrected obviously but surely a 1.6 tc cant be thesame as a 2.2 ( or even 2.5 or 3 litre 6 cyl).

when you check the stall speed rpm a low reading would indicate an engine power loss because the rpm would be lower so in theory if you put a 1.6 75HP engine on a tc designed for a 2.2 115 HP it would act as if it was a worn out 2.2 ? ?

as for the flexplate being different i dont know.

i do have a 1.6 one somewhere but cannot remember what differences it had to a 2.2 one when i did mine .maybee it had reinforced mounting points or a thicker plate ?  

[Jessopia74]

11 hours ago, cam.in.head said:

im pretty sure the torque converter would be otherwise the stall speeds would be surely wrong. i stand to becorrected obviously but surely a 1.6 tc cant be thesame as a 2.2 ( or even 2.5 or 3 litre 6 cyl).

when you check the stall speed rpm a low reading would indicate an engine power loss because the rpm would be lower so in theory if you put a 1.6 75HP engine on a tc designed for a 2.2 115 HP it would act as if it was a worn out 2.2 ? ?

as for the flexplate being different i dont know.

i do have a 1.6 one somewhere but cannot remember what differences it had to a 2.2 one when i did mine .maybee it had reinforced mounting points or a thicker plate ?  

The thicker or reinforced flex (drive) plate would of solved the issue. I wondered if the 2,2 had a 4bolt torque converter.

[cam.in.head]

its a few years back now but im pretty sure it is 4 bolt 

but something tells me 3 ?

[Jessopia74]

5 minutes ago, cam.in.head said:

its a few years back now but im pretty sure it is 4 bolt 

but something tells me 3 ?

Wonder if the GTE auto was any better tbh. Although one could be updated on the back with some strengthening plate so long as it was balanced after. But if the 2.2 was a 4 bolt then that would be ideal 

[cam.in.head]

ive got a 2.8 flexplate in the shed somewhere. ihave a funny feeling that nay be 3 bolt too but wether its a thicker plate ? 

[Jessopia74]

15 minutes ago, cam.in.head said:

ive got a 2.8 flexplate in the shed somewhere. ihave a funny feeling that nay be 3 bolt too but wether its a thicker plate ? 

Would be interesting, but from a quick Google they look to be 6 bolt. But I wonder if that would be a good upgrade indeed, as they seem to have 9 bolt holes, might line up.

[cam.in.head]

hi. yes the flexplate i have.(2.8 6 cyl) mounts with 3 bolts. there are various other holes on the plate but the marks definately show that the torque converter on a 2.8 is only 3 bolts as the others are.

the style of the 2.8 one is slightly different. flat plate rather than raised mounting points suggesting indeed that the tc is bigger on larger engined cars which does make sense.

[IanG]

Oh ha ha what a larf tried fitting inertia rear belts yesterday, can see where they are meant to go in the coupe inner arches but how do you reach the mounting points from the boot, my mate Stretch Armstrong is on holiday!

Offside has the fuel filler in the way as well!

 

[Jonathan Pounsett]

If Stretch Armstrong or Elasti Girl are unavailable you will need a human assistant to help hold everything in place and get the bolts started. Wrench length will help you reach. 

The pressing of the rear shelf already marks out the location. I used BMW E30 belts and the trim from an E46 (from memory) finishes it all of really neatly.
 

 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

[Jessopia74]

That is really tidy job 👍😎