Sutty2006 Posted May 7 Share Posted May 7 I’m getting a hint of mid to late 60s mk2 jag. 👌 simply lovely 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bilbo Posted May 8 Author Share Posted May 8 6 hours ago, ®evo03 said: Certainly is red, no woman could refuse. What do the ladies think 😂😂😂 Top marks, and great work, you wanted a red interior and got it, probably better than the original. Is the red velour on the parcel shelf, good quality, could seats be covered in it. Asking for a friend 😂 Looking black or grey, not red😎 Haha, girlfriend says she loves it, if my mum does too then I've got all the approval I need 😂 Haha, no no the velour on the parcel shelf was the cheapest thing I could find haha. I would not recommend it for a high wear area at all, it was £7 delivered for like 1.5mx1m of it, and tbh looking at it that was expensive. It looks great, but it is incredibly thin. Imagine a cheap Dracula Halloween cape and you're about there with what it's like 😂 However for an area with incredibly little wear or items put on it, it will do the job just fine. 5 hours ago, Jessopia74 said: Such a big change indeed. It is a bit haha, still getting used to it. 3 hours ago, Sutty2006 said: I’m getting a hint of mid to late 60s mk2 jag. 👌 simply lovely Just looked the interior on those up. Yes, about the same level of red! But far more upmarket than my creation 😂 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutty2006 Posted May 8 Share Posted May 8 4 hours ago, Bilbo said: Haha, girlfriend says she loves it, if my mum does too then I've got all the approval I need 😂 Haha, no no the velour on the parcel shelf was the cheapest thing I could find haha. I would not recommend it for a high wear area at all, it was £7 delivered for like 1.5mx1m of it, and tbh looking at it that was expensive. It looks great, but it is incredibly thin. Imagine a cheap Dracula Halloween cape and you're about there with what it's like 😂 However for an area with incredibly little wear or items put on it, it will do the job just fine. It is a bit haha, still getting used to it. Just looked the interior on those up. Yes, about the same level of red! But far more upmarket than my creation 😂 And that smell of real cow leather mmmmmmmm 🤣 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted May 8 Share Posted May 8 6 hours ago, Sutty2006 said: And that smell of real cow leather mmmmmmmm 🤣 My mother-in-law has that too 🫣🤣 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bilbo Posted May 30 Author Share Posted May 30 (edited) So, it's been a few weeks. Not a huge amount going on but I did get down to Retro Rides on the Sunday at Goodwood. Always a good show, some great stuff there. Treated the car to a wash beforehand Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Was a pretty good day, weather was superb. Didn't take many photos but here's a couple that other people got of mine: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Wasn't sure I would see one but there was in fact 1 other Cavalier there! Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Pretty early car, and quite liked the cool retracting burgundy roof, suited it. Looked pretty tidy too. Other than that not much going on, sorted a few little bits here and there. Made a little update to my relocated shifter. I really ought to remake it a bit neater and cover it properly with a gaiter to hide everything, but it works well enough as it is for now. Replaced the front clevis with a rose joint with shim pieces either side to stop side to side pivot. Shift has a lot less slop now which is nice. But this is still v2.0 of the shifter, planning to make a much neater v3.0 when I get the time and motivation! Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Weird looking thing, but it's worked excellently for over a year now and cost me like £7 for the rose joints so I'm not complaining 😂 Should have some more updates soon when I can get some more free days down the workshop. Edited May 30 by Bilbo 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trooker Posted May 30 Share Posted May 30 I liked the way you have the red theme going on through the interior and under the bonnet culminating at the front with the griffin. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bilbo Posted May 30 Author Share Posted May 30 2 hours ago, Trooker said: I liked the way you have the red theme going on through the interior and under the bonnet culminating at the front with the griffin. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Haha! Finally, someone has looked at it and thought it was a good intentional design choice and not just that I couldn't be bothered to strip the bay to paint it 😂 But I do agree, I bloody love the red badge on the front! The red interior has tied it all in nicely. Were you displaying or just in normal parking area? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trooker Posted May 30 Share Posted May 30 1 hour ago, Bilbo said: Haha! Finally, someone has looked at it and thought it was a good intentional design choice and not just that I couldn't be bothered to strip the bay to paint it 😂 But I do agree, I bloody love the red badge on the front! The red interior has tied it all in nicely. Were you displaying or just in normal parking area? Mine needed some bits doing and alas wasn’t ready in time. I normally just leave it in the retro parking area as it’s no show car 😆 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bilbo Posted May 30 Author Share Posted May 30 37 minutes ago, Trooker said: Mine needed some bits doing and alas wasn’t ready in time. I normally just leave it in the retro parking area as it’s no show car 😆 Ah nah, while it's cool looking at the mint garage queens, I love seeing a car at a show that is clearly used regularly. Bloke local to me I used to see commuting in a '78 Trans Am every morning 😂 love to see it!! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trooker Posted May 30 Share Posted May 30 11 hours ago, Bilbo said: Ah nah, while it's cool looking at the mint garage queens, I love seeing a car at a show that is clearly used regularly. Bloke local to me I used to see commuting in a '78 Trans Am every morning 😂 love to see it!! With the exception of the last few months mine’s certainly had regular use over the last six years. I’m expecting advisories but hoping for an mot tomorrow. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bilbo Posted July 30 Author Share Posted July 30 Well it's been a while! Some car stuff has been going on, but life has been busy as per. Events (mostly non-car related), work, cat getting ill and sadly having to be put down, it's been a mixed bag. Coupled with not much free funds I haven't been able to do too much lately. But I'm getting myself in gear now and sorting out some fairly important bits! First off I changed my backbox. My mate had the backbox from my old mk1 MX-5 on his mk2, as it sounded really good. Unfortunately it started rattling badly so he cut it off and fitted a new one. I found the baffle rattling and tack welded it up, and decided to put it on the Cavalier in place of the Jetex silencer and cherrybomb-esque setup I had at the back before. Went with an upswept tip, just had some pipe lying around and thought why not, it might look more retro. I kind of like it, though the backbox does look a little big sat there, but it's kind of grown on me. I quite like the tip, I cut the end at a slight angle to give it a more finished appearance, kind of a slash tip sort of thing. I think it looks alright. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Sounds nicer than the old setup I think, sadly not got videos yet, my bad. With that all done, I was driving with a mate, and as I did a rather spirited rev limiter 1st to 2nd gear change the car let out an enormous flame and bang on gear change, and I genuinely thought I'd blown the engine up. Sounded like knocking. Anyway turns out that the oldest portion of my now wrapped Frankenstein manifold decided it's time had come, and promptly split almost the entire way around 😂 Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. The most disgusting blow noise ever as you can imagine. I've now cleaned this up and have welded it back together, all sorted. Not ideal though 😂 Anyway, onto more important things. The diff and gearbox whine are now at a point where I am just hating it haha. Since the prop issue (prop has been good since UJ replacement touch wood), the gearbox whine did worsen. The diff appeared to stay about the same, but it was clearly not happy. Pinion seal has started to weep now so it's definitely the pinion bearing on its way out. So I grabbed one of my spare gearboxes and a mate gave me a hand to change it over last week. I hadn't realised as my spares were mk1 MX-5 boxes that the top cover section that I have my shifter relocation welded to doesn't exist on these. Luckily my mate has a couple of mk2 5 speeds knocking around at the unit, so we just used one of his ones instead. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Dug out the original 1.6 flywheel and my Exedy clutch that I took off the MX-5 when I broke it (only got about 20k on it so I'm using that now). The flywheel had been sat against the wall and had got a bit rusty, but he cleaned up the contact surface for me, and the spigot bearing felt ok, so we removed the damaged box and got it on. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. The 1.6 flywheel is a couple of kg lighter than the 1.8 one that was on it. Clutch disc is a little smaller, but at this power level it's not a concern at all. We then stripped apart the damaged box and he cut the input shaft off, so we now have a purpose-made MX-5 clutch alignment tool for free! Ideal. Anyway, replacement box went on no dramas, put prop back on, new oil in it, and it's much better. So that's that, and basically cost nothing other than 2 bottles of 75w90. Notice inside the V banded exhaust, a very odd round portion of material. My flexi pipe appears to have done something a little odd, and is probably causing a bit of a restriction in there, so I'm going to cut it out and replace it with another I have soon. No idea what's happened there in all honesty 😂 And yes, that is an old Celica in the background. My mate has brought it back to the unit to get it roadworthy. Handed down to him from his grandad 9ish years ago, hasn't seen the road since the mid 90s. Very cool car! I asked around about an axle and finally Simon Peckham came to my rescue, I believe you all know him very well on here! My mate lives a lot closer, so he picked up the Manta axle and brought it down to me. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. It's been sat for some time, but the corrosion was nothing to be concerned about, spring seats both look absolutely fine, nothing of concern on it. Took the brake lines and cylinders off, gave it a good old wire brush and conventional brush afterwards to remove any loose rust, dust and cobwebs etc. and it was looking a lot happier already. Gave it a good coat of rust converter on all the surface rust and it was coming out real nice Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Once that was dry I gave it a couple of coats of engine block paint, I thought as it's hard wearing, oil/chemical resistant, and temperature resistant it'll be ideal. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. It's looking a lot healthier now. I've spun the shafts and pinion by hand and they appear to feel nice enough. I will take the cover off to inspect it before fitting just to be sure, but so far so good. I have a brand new cover plate gasket, and a brand new pinion seal to go on it. I also have just bought the rear axle hardware kit from TJ Motorsport. It was relatively inexpensive really, so seemed a no brainer to replace the hardware when I put it in rather than using the old nuts and bolts, certainly won't hurt. Hoping to have this diff in this weekend! And hopefully my whiney drivetrain woes will be over, and I'll no doubt be able to hear some other bad noise from something else 😂 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bilbo Posted August 5 Author Share Posted August 5 Thought this was pretty cool, don't see many of these Rovers about, so I was surprised to see it parked near me the other day leaving Asda Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Sorted the axle this weekend. Had some help from a couple of mates at various points, as it's a bit of an awkward job, even with 2 very useful hydraulic breakfast stools to hold the axles on 😂 Old axle came out no fuss. Oil looked a little suspect, bit of glitter in it at points, but held a magnet up to the draining oil and it didn't pick up much of anything, so I doubt it's completely ruined. I'll open it up soon and see what's happened. Definitely pinion bearing, hopefully nothing else so it can be rebuilt easily at some point. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. It actually came out pretty easy, the bolts were all completely fine, nothing snapped or anything like that, which was nice and made things more straightforward. We removed all the brake drums/shoes, and arms off of it to use on the new one. The rear brake setup I completely refreshed when I got it on the road, so it basically all looked brand new still and was put straight on the replacement. The TJ Motorsport hardware kit was good, didn't use all of it yet as some bolts I haven't needed to remove, but kept them for when I do. All the bolts I did use seem fine, and they have all-metal self locking nuts, which is nice to have for peace of mind that they will stay torqued up. I pulled the diff cover off the new one and the inside looked mint, crown, pinion and diff gears all looked basically brand new as you'd expect of a normal condition diff. So re-sealed the rear plate, put a new pinion seal on, and got it in the car. Overall fitting went well, bit fiddly, especially the anti-roll bar brackets, but nothing too bad at all. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Gave all the exposed threads on the hardware a coat of 3M Anti-Corrosion Spray, just to make any future removal nice and easy, and greased up the various bolt shanks with some copper slip too. Feels good to refresh the rear axle a bit, it's basically the only part of the car I haven't really touched since owning it, other than the initial oil change. Drove it home after sorting the rear brakes out after reassembly, and it is unreal. I've lived with the noise for so long, I even thought the replacement gearbox had overrun noise after we put it in. But it was all the diff, every gear lash type noise, the whine, the wallowing noises. All gone. I can hear my music properly, pure ITB sound, and exhaust now. 100% worth the effort. I forgot just how good ITBs actually sounded 😂 Will drop the diff oil and replace next week as this axle was sat for many years, just to have a look and make sure everything is ok, and to give it a flush. Will also re-check the torque on all bolts after they have some time to settle in a bit. Overall, so happy now, car is lovely to drive again. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted August 5 Share Posted August 5 Great write up, and effort. Bringing car owning and club back to where it should be. What works........works 😎 What doesn't work, 👋 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted August 5 Share Posted August 5 Good job, presume the front torque tube rubber was good too? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bilbo Posted August 6 Author Share Posted August 6 5 hours ago, ®evo03 said: Great write up, and effort. Bringing car owning and club back to where it should be. What works........works 😎 What doesn't work, 👋 Cheers mate. Yeah exactly, with this car there's been a ton of stuff I've never done before, just have to get on with it and work it out as I go half the time 😂 4 hours ago, Jessopia74 said: Good job, presume the front torque tube rubber was good too? It was indeed, we had all that crossmember section apart a few months ago when we changed the centre bearing. The centre donut you would think was 5 years old, not 44! Incredibly good quality rubber parts they made back then. We actually cheated when we changed the axle though. Put it on the ramp and to speed things up I couldn't be bothered to remove the exhaust, centre crossmember, and those bits. So after all the bolts were cracked free we just lowered the car down until the axle was supported by the stools, and slid it backwards off of the torque tube/rear prop section. We hooked it up so it wasn't hanging on the rubber triangle bit, and then re-fitting we just did the reverse. Was super simple and way less stuff needed removing, so was ideal really. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bilbo Posted August 13 Author Share Posted August 13 So, shifter v3.0 decided to finally throw in the towel. The weak point, the threaded bolt under the shifter that connected to the vertical rose joint snapped. My welds never failed, but the bolt itself sheared itself off. It was a weak point, it worked for a fair while though, so it did alright. Unfortunately it happened during a 4th to 5th gear change on a dual carriageway, which wasn't ideal, but it is what it is 😂 Now re-done again, This time I have welded the rose joint directly to the underneath of the shifter. Got it absolutely belting hot, it is well and truly welded on this time, no weak threads to worry about. Also while it was off I had bought some more little rose joints, so made the top section double rose jointed on both sides, not just one. This is far superior, when it's all bolted up the motion of the shift is almost identical to an MX-5 shifter in the standard location, with no side to side movement in the joints at all Shifter 4.0 is officially the best version yet. I'm sure something will occur and 5.0 will appear at some point 😂 Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. In other news, I made a discovery. Rear shocks. Spent some hours trawling various forum posts, discussions etc., and looking on parts websites at what was available. My right rear KYB shock has blown. It's not horrendous, but it has been leaking for a little while. It's a standard length shock on a fairly lowered car, we all know this does happen. I could have just replaced it as they're not exactly pricey, but I didn't want to. I wanted shorter shocks, to reduce axle droop and keep my rear spring properly captive even when on the ramp. The only shortened rear shocks I could find for a Manta/Cavalier were KONI ones. The Bilstein B6s might be too, but annoyingly they don't list these length specs anywhere, plus they're quite expensive, and non-adjustable. I don't really have the budget for £130-£150 a shock right now, despite that people do rate them. So I started looking at other options from different vehicles. Rear shocks from similar cars with a bottom eye and a top pin setup. A fair few options out there, mostly all too short. Then I came across these: https://www.autodoc.co.uk/bilstein/637572 Mk3 Cavalier rear shocks. Bilstein B4, not the sportiest option, but they seem to be widely liked across many different model owners as a decent OE replacement shock. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. My KYBs were 610mm long fully extended. These are approx. 560mm fully extended. The top pin is the exact same diameter and thread as Manta shocks. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. The bottom eye uses the same shank sized bolt to secure it, and the width of the bottom eye is basically identical to Manta shocks. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. They also come with 2 rubbers and large washers for the strut mount at the top, exactly the same as a Manta shock. Literally the only difference is the thread on the top pin is longer when fitted, so a bit more work with a spanner to secure the nyloc down, that's it. I now have approx. 2 inches less axle droop when raised on the ramp, my springs are happier sitting in the spring perch securely, and the shock is under way less compression when at resting ride height than the old ones. They should last longer as a result. They feel a tad firmer, which I actually wanted, the rear was super soft on the KYBs for my liking, but it isn't overly stiff now either. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. It sat a little higher at first but settled a bit after the drive home. £33 each, I really can't complain. Also AutoDoc have brand new Hella handbrake cable for Mantas, arrived today and all the ends, and centre bracket piece all look the same, so I think it's correct. Only £10, ideal. Will fit it later this week. Overall super happy with the mk3 Cavalier shock discovery, it's nice to have a budget shorter shock option that works well and is easily available. I will be changing my fronts soon as they're just cheap Ridex ones and are too soft. Seen several people mention classic Mini rear shocks fitting, so I might order some GAZ adjustables. Mini owners seem to comment how hard they are on the very light Mini, so I reckon they could be ideal on the front of this. Super cheap too so will give them a go I think! 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trooker Posted August 13 Share Posted August 13 Great write up again, fascinating info regarding the shocks 👍 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bilbo Posted August 13 Author Share Posted August 13 8 hours ago, Trooker said: Great write up again, fascinating info regarding the shocks 👍 Cheers mate. Yeah I was pretty happy that it all worked out, always like finding alternatives that might work, especially when they're cheap 😂 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted August 13 Share Posted August 13 do you think the rider ones you have on the front are comparable to the original gm .i like the softness of the originals and wouldn't ever want to go firmer ? great project info and write up . following with interest 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted August 14 Share Posted August 14 I will be buying Cav MK3 rears very soon. I managed to get a old mini shock for rest fitting, but think it's a front? Didn't realise it was rear mini shocks for front. I'm going super low with next project. _____ 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bilbo Posted August 14 Author Share Posted August 14 On 13/08/2024 at 12:38, cam.in.head said: do you think the rider ones you have on the front are comparable to the original gm .i like the softness of the originals and wouldn't ever want to go firmer ? great project info and write up . following with interest I'll be honest I don't actually know what the original shocks would have been brand wise, but the Ridex are sold as just a generic OEM replacement shock, same length and whatnot, and certainly not a performance upgrade part. AutoDoc has quite a few options for front Manta shocks, Ridex are the cheapest, but they also have KYB options amongst others in the cheap bracket too. 1 hour ago, ®evo03 said: I will be buying Cav MK3 rears very soon. I managed to get a old mini shock for rest fitting, but think it's a front? Didn't realise it was rear mini shocks for front. I'm going super low with next project. _____ Only thing I'll say about the mk3 Cavalier shocks is that during my searching about them, I did encounter various forum discussions. Some of them talked about how the (forgive me if I'm wrong) GSi variant? Or was it the SRi? Anyway whichever one was 4x4 had a different rear end to accommodate the 4x4 element. I have a feeling the rear shocks between the 2wd and 4x4 cars may be different as a result, so I'd make sure to double check the top and bottom fitting method as well as the extended and compressed lengths if you go for something other than the B4s I linked above (which obviously are correct). Ah damn, yeah it is Mini rears apparently that are the ones. From looking at photos I can say with certainty that classic Mini front shocks are bottom and top eye fitting, so definitely unsuitable. There are a couple of comments in threads on here that I saw talking about Mini rear shocks, but nothing in any real length particularly. After checking the photos of them, and the sizes, I'm fairly confident that the GAZ ones will fit, so will be buying those as soon as I have the money. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bilbo Posted August 19 Author Share Posted August 19 (edited) So had a week to let the Bilstein rear shocks settle in. They definitely sit a few mm higher than the previous ones I think, probably because the right rear was blown no doubt. I also think my front shocks might be a bit unhappy, as the front definitely looks lower than I remember being. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. I had a look at the front shocks and neither seem blown, but looking at the clean to dirty line on the shock body, where the top cover section is sitting when it's on the floor, they are under a lot of compression all the time, so I think I'll need to order those Mini Gaz shocks soon. I've definitely felt the bumps stops get hit a couple of times recently, so maybe these ones have had it. These shocks should be 410mm long extended, did a rough tape measure measurement and it's somewhere around that, maybe slightly shorter. Compressed should be around 270mm. Mini Gaz rears are 410mm extended/280mm compressed for standard version, or 350mm extended/250mm compressed for the Lowered version. Torn on which to go for. If I go for the standard ones I think they'll be ok, but I do like the Lowered version having a shorter compressed length. Not decided yet. The adjustable dampening will certainly help either way. Also my mate made up a new bench at the workshop, one thing we've never had. A proper workbench. 3mm box for the frame and 4mm plate for the top. Very thick 10mm on the right side to give the vice some extra support. He also picked up a pillar drill recently for free, so we'll get that set up too. Just need a bench grinder now! Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. And I sorted out my absolute tip of an area upstairs. We all have our own areas for storage, and mine was horrendous. Stuff everywhere, no order or place for anything, just a mess. Got it all sorted out now. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Ainsley is there for moral support 😂 Had a big tatty box of all my bolts, nuts, screws, washers, everything. Was a pain to find anything, so put up some bins and got everything separated into usable sections now, will definitely be so much easier to find stuff! Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. I've got a creak on the front right of the Cavalier, at first I thought maybe a creaky bush. But when I was dry steering it to line it up for them ramp I realised it did it on steering input. So I've bought new track rod end and lower ball joint, will do both this week, I'm sure it is going to be one of them. We had a look at it on the ramp and neither look bad, but it's definitely one of them doing it I think. And finally I have some play in the rack when centered, checked UJs and whatnot, all good, it's the rack and pinion itself. Tried to tighten the pre-load nut just a bit to see if it went away, but no good. Will source a used rack to replace that soon as I don't like the play at all. Edited August 19 by Bilbo 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted August 19 Share Posted August 19 with regards to the shocks lengths, the ideal is to measure your at 'settled' height and and then measure which out of the two would be closest to putting the new shock in its mid point of travel. If either are offset up /low in the tube), then I would be looking at just the one that is closest to mid since unless you have changed the subframe bump-stop cone lengths (and/or rubber bump stops) then the total travel of suspension is very limited anyway. It is for this purpose that on lowered car, I reduce the cone length slightly so I can still use the bump stop rubbers 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bilbo Posted August 19 Author Share Posted August 19 (edited) 8 hours ago, Jessopia74 said: with regards to the shocks lengths, the ideal is to measure your at 'settled' height and and then measure which out of the two would be closest to putting the new shock in its mid point of travel. If either are offset up /low in the tube), then I would be looking at just the one that is closest to mid since unless you have changed the subframe bump-stop cone lengths (and/or rubber bump stops) then the total travel of suspension is very limited anyway. It is for this purpose that on lowered car, I reduce the cone length slightly so I can still use the bump stop rubbers Good point on the settled height. I looked back at my AutoDoc account orders this morning and found the front shocks I am using, 377mm extended, 244mm compressed. I got a bigger number because I was an idiot and measured to the bottom of the mounting eye, not the bottom of the actual shock cylinder. I think the shortened Mini Gaz shocks at 350mm/250mm will be ideal in this case. And yes, I will be looking at the bump stop cones. I noticed one side the rubber part has bent over to one side, probably from being hit at some point. May shorten the stops and get new rubbers for them, but I'll get the new GAZ shocks fitted first and judge what is needed after. Edited August 19 by Bilbo 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted August 19 Share Posted August 19 I cut the cones out of my exclusive 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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