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Alternator Replacement


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Hi there. Very new to the club and having just taken ownership of a 1987 Manta b GTE, I was disappointed to find that the alternator is not working. 
I cannot find anywhere that has one in stock. 
Has anyone had any success in this task?

Thank you. 




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there should be no problem finding one of these i would have thought. there are also a 55 amp version as fitted to some models (carlton 2.2 for example).which would be a slightly better option over the 45amp version .

as mentioned there are places that can recon these too. usually its the regulator and / or noisy bearings that fail rather than the coils.

if you buy one online make sure that the mounting points are offset to each other rather than diametrically opposite as this will be the wrong one (for later fwd stuff !)

you will see what i mean if you google some pics.

also just be sure yours is actually faulty beforehand. if thats an actual picture of your the connections look a little iffy ? the main positive lead looks a bit rusty and suspect on the lug. and check the small earth lead at the bottom to the bracket.

Edited by cam.in.head
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Thanks everyone. I got the existing one refurbished and recrimped that dodgy looking connection. 
now the car starts and doesn’t stall but voltage at alternator is 11.6-11.8V when running, 12.4 when off.  
can anyone confirm if it is possible that the alternator is 12 Volt and not 14 volt? 
Just keen to know if all is fixed to go out on the road with lights and wipers a need this time of year. 




Edited by JonnyD
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Should be around 14V, my opinion is that a Delco-Remy and Bosch (type) are the same build quality but the advantage of a Bosch type is you can change the voltage regulator with the brushes easy. they are fitted on the back of the alternator.  To do this on a Delco Remy you'v got to open the body, and before closing the alternator you need to push the brushes in with a steel wire that you pull out after closing the alternator. If you don't do this the brushes will break. Maybe this happened when your alternator was refurbished...

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9 hours ago, JonnyD said:

Volts readings are same at alternator points and battery terminals. 

As H stated about readings, when running you should see min ~13.5v at battery terminals. it should not be under 12v as that means you’re draining the battery. I would go into halfords/local garage/ service center etc and get them to put a proper battery tester on to check mate. 
or buy your own.  Something like this is quick & dirty test; (obviously it’s not professional spec, so a trip to a friendly garage that will test for free is best) 


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yes it sounds like you still have issues and possibly the alternator wasnt faulty to begin with ?( or they havnt fixed it !)

check that the earth leads are good. small one on alternator,big one on engine to chassis.

wiring wise theres not much else that could be at fault.main positive lead and blue/white to warning light.

check that the dashboard warning light is present and working correct. should be glowing bright with ign on and go out completely with engine running. sorry if im stating the obvious here !

at idle voltage may well be under 12v but this must increase to around 14v when you raise the revs.

if this isnt the case and you are sure its all wired up soundly then the alternator must still be faulty.

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  • 2 weeks later...

hi. wouldnt want to question your work  and as you say you are still learning but any damage on the sheathing wouldnt affect the connection as such so if it were me i would replace the short earth lead completely and also relug the main one just to be sure. it may be that there WAS a bad earth connection and moving it or crimping it has temporarily solved it. 

like i say im not critsising your work just trying to help with a more permanent fix.

all the best .

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Relugged all connections from battery connection through all.

thanks for the info. 

As I did all this before testing, I made more than one change before testing, so could have been either. 

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