Jessopia74 Posted November 11 Share Posted November 11 59 minutes ago, Simon Dobbo said: Hi Anybody know where i can get a new rubber block carb mount? replied to your DM mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vince Posted Tuesday at 08:11 Share Posted Tuesday at 08:11 On 07/11/2024 at 17:56, Simon Dobbo said: Stripped it off and cleaned it and put back with sealant for now not split but warped drove 97 miles to NEC no issues but haven’t stopped it and let it cool and tried again - will leave that for another day does seem to have a little less go - I think it may be too rich now as you say i know have original jet sizes so maybe I can find some at the show this weekend Guess you made it home ok On Sunday! Nice to meet you Saturday & Sunday. Just remembered I had an issue with my old 1.8. It used to cut out occasionally. It was the electronic ignition module not earthed yery well on the inner wing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Dobbo Posted Tuesday at 08:17 Author Share Posted Tuesday at 08:17 4 minutes ago, Vince said: Guess you made it home ok On Sunday! Nice to meet you Saturday & Sunday. Just remembered I had an issue with my old 1.8. It used to cut out occasionally. It was the electronic ignition module not earthed yery well on the inner wing. Thanks I had some issues on the way home. Did about 40 miles no bother - then on M42 at 70 it started to splutter and die. Made it into an emergency layby. after 2 mins managed to start it again with full throttle. Pulled out and got another 3 miles and it started doing it again.- Dropped down to third and gave it full throttle - eventually cleared and kept it going. Then it did another 60 miles home without another issue - except for my nerves - HA I think I am going to check and remake the earth connection at the weekend and then remove the pressure regulator between the fuel pump and carb. Will then have to ssee how it goes again 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted Tuesday at 11:32 Share Posted Tuesday at 11:32 maybee i missed it in an earlier reply but why have you got a pressure regulator ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Dobbo Posted Tuesday at 11:51 Author Share Posted Tuesday at 11:51 15 minutes ago, cam.in.head said: maybee i missed it in an earlier reply but why have you got a pressure regulator ?? was fitted by previous owner when they did the weber conversion to get the car running after the 30 something year lay up. I am told by many that a Weber needs a pressure regulator as they only like 3 to 3.5psi and pumps do more than that. But at the NEC several club members say I dont need it - some of them running Weber without for years. Possibly fuel starvation when on motorway on way home for sure. I am getting to end of my knowledge with it but it wont play up when i take it anywhere. 😂😩 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted Tuesday at 13:10 Share Posted Tuesday at 13:10 cant see any reason why a webber would be any different and require an additional pressure regulator to any other carb. varijet, solex etc . surely its a simple float/ needle valve . the proper mechanical pump only supplies a low pressure anyway in the order of 3-( psi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Dobbo Posted Tuesday at 13:43 Author Share Posted Tuesday at 13:43 30 minutes ago, cam.in.head said: cant see any reason why a webber would be any different and require an additional pressure regulator to any other carb. varijet, solex etc . surely its a simple float/ needle valve . the proper mechanical pump only supplies a low pressure anyway in the order of 3-( psi Im not sure myself. If I google it many places say its a must on Weber and people have had carb overflow issues but I am sceptical. That is far more likely on electric pumps I would think. Some say they had issues with mechanical pumps putting out 6psi causing an overflow but my plimbing brain thinks the float valve should easily cope with shutting off a low pressure such as that. I will be removing and trialing on Saturday if i get time before a cheeky week in Teneriffe starting Sunday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted Tuesday at 14:14 Share Posted Tuesday at 14:14 the mechanical pump works different to an electric one anyway. the lever moves a diaphragm which only pumps fuel though a one way valve if theres anywhere for it to go .otherwise even thou the rod moves in and out the diaphragm stays put until it needs to return and gets the next rod push . sort of hard to explain but its not as if its trying to push fuel through at every revolution. if some people are saying that a normal ( std issue) low pressure mechanical pump can flood a weber then does that mean they use a different fuel valve to other manufacturers ? cant see it ! however . easy enough to try without it and see . thought youd sorted it with the carb mounting issue . ( unless its still got an unseen crack ??) and does it actually need the rubber mount ? can if be removed , fitted direct or some kind of plate ? why were they there in the first place ? does the 1.3 ohc or 1.6 ohc have one ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Dobbo Posted Tuesday at 14:22 Author Share Posted Tuesday at 14:22 3 minutes ago, cam.in.head said: the mechanical pump works different to an electric one anyway. the lever moves a diaphragm which only pumps fuel though a one way valve if theres anywhere for it to go .otherwise even thou the rod moves in and out the diaphragm stays put until it needs to return and gets the next rod push . sort of hard to explain but its not as if its trying to push fuel through at every revolution. if some people are saying that a normal ( std issue) low pressure mechanical pump can flood a weber then does that mean they use a different fuel valve to other manufacturers ? cant see it ! however . easy enough to try without it and see . thought youd sorted it with the carb mounting issue . ( unless its still got an unseen crack ??) To be honest the hot start/running issue may or may not be sorted. I havent tested the theory yet. Once I rebuilt it I went all the way to NEC in one go and then turned off for the 4 days - then drove home in one go and parked again. But i did get the new sypmtom of it cutting out on the motorway but starting again after trying for a minute. I am hoping that that may have been lack of fuel at high speed with the regulator restricting flow to carb but not sure. Definately taking it out and trying for a bit. Also thinking of replaceing the fuel pump as it drains back so not sure non return is working well. Pump looks new but if its like any other bits previous owner did then its cheapest possible parts - the ignition amp was poor and lasted about 400 miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted Tuesday at 14:47 Share Posted Tuesday at 14:47 as far as i know the 1.8 doesnt have any antidrainback valves just the normal 2 pull push inside the pump . there are always plenty of new pumps on ebay even the orig ones so it will do no harm in trying one . its certainly an unusual issue this . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Dobbo Posted Tuesday at 15:00 Author Share Posted Tuesday at 15:00 11 minutes ago, cam.in.head said: as far as i know the 1.8 doesnt have any antidrainback valves just the normal 2 pull push inside the pump . there are always plenty of new pumps on ebay even the orig ones so it will do no harm in trying one . its certainly an unusual issue this . I wont let it beat me! - HA Not sure if the pump should have a spacer between it and engine? which i think is missing. Seem to remember reading about a spacer somewhere Need a closer look but sure its just on a paper gasket. - so spacing could be an issue withpump not operating fully/correctly. I bet spacers are impossible to get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted Tuesday at 15:46 Share Posted Tuesday at 15:46 It depends, different manufacturers used different 'spacer' thickness. The original did have a spacer though. It has caused lots of confusion over the years tbh. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted Tuesday at 16:11 Share Posted Tuesday at 16:11 find a delco pump as orig and fit a spacer to be sure . someone will have one or make one from some fibre insulation or suitable heatproof material .around 5mm thick . if yours just did a non stop trip to the show without issues thou a doubt the spacer is an issue BUT gm fitted it ( as a heat barrier i believe mainly . ) so might as well fit one and a pump to eliminate it from your enquiries( doing away with the regulator too) . then after that find a replacenent distributor to eliminate the hall sensor then youve pretty much covered everything ! i dont doubt for one minute that it will beat you but it sure is annoying when its a stupid issue like this that seems to be fighting you ! good luck / happy tinkering ! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Dobbo Posted Tuesday at 16:31 Author Share Posted Tuesday at 16:31 I am at the stage now where it has to be Pump Regulator Rubber mount for carb or distributor Finding distributor not easy but should be able to do pump and spacer easy enough even if have to make a spacer. Rubber mount seems difficult to find also Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted Wednesday at 08:07 Share Posted Wednesday at 08:07 the hall sensor in the distributor is the same as fitted to many gm cars of the era . without having one to compare you may just be able to swap the baseplate complete ( easier than the actual sensor as its rivited on with some non conventional stud rivets ) or someone may well have a spare for you . need to confirm next time that spark is actually being lost ? like it was before but the distributor sensor is a pretty reliable component which appears to be working correctly or you wouldnt be able to do a long journey as you did ? just be nice to eliminate it i have had a loss of spark issue once on a belmont ( identical system) and replacing the distributor baseplate solved it . i suspected the connection on the connector on the side of the distributor because there was the slightest hint of green crusties in it ! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted Wednesday at 10:38 Share Posted Wednesday at 10:38 2 hours ago, cam.in.head said: the hall sensor in the distributor is the same as fitted to many gm cars of the era . without having one to compare you may just be able to swap the baseplate complete ( easier than the actual sensor as its rivited on with some non conventional stud rivets ) or someone may well have a spare for you . need to confirm next time that spark is actually being lost ? like it was before but the distributor sensor is a pretty reliable component which appears to be working correctly or you wouldnt be able to do a long journey as you did ? just be nice to eliminate it i have had a loss of spark issue once on a belmont ( identical system) and replacing the distributor baseplate solved it . i suspected the connection on the connector on the side of the distributor because there was the slightest hint of green crusties in it ! yeah, great point. Most of the parts can be pulled out of the same era distributors as the internal plates etc are all common components. Just the Housing and shaft ofc that is different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted Wednesday at 12:16 Share Posted Wednesday at 12:16 just checked . loads on for sale at the moment ! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Dobbo Posted Wednesday at 13:42 Author Share Posted Wednesday at 13:42 1 hour ago, cam.in.head said: just checked . loads on for sale at the moment ! What hall sensors or distributors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted Wednesday at 14:58 Share Posted Wednesday at 14:58 astra and cavalier distributors . none 1.8 specific but should be same internally for spares ( dont quote me 100 % on that ) but shows they are available if you cant get a manta one on the omoc. if were me i would try the regulator removal as the first step then if it does if again confirm spark present or not . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rutts Posted Wednesday at 21:11 Share Posted Wednesday at 21:11 After changing pump and regulator ensure the rubber fuel pipe from tank to plastic fuel pipe is new. I had a manta hatch 1.8 that had air getting into fuel feed due to rubber pipe breaking down caused similar issues as you are having. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted Wednesday at 21:40 Share Posted Wednesday at 21:40 Have you looked at emissions, mine wasn't fumey and driving well, but was off the scale on emissions, suspect carb spacer perished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Dobbo Posted Thursday at 07:41 Author Share Posted Thursday at 07:41 10 hours ago, rutts said: After changing pump and regulator ensure the rubber fuel pipe from tank to plastic fuel pipe is new. I had a manta hatch 1.8 that had air getting into fuel feed due to rubber pipe breaking down caused similar issues as you are having. Thanks I have replaced the pipe from the tank to the fuel pump completely but i will re check connections. I I thinking the regulator and connections are causing the issue and ossible air ingress. Will be removing and replacing with new piece of pipe this weekend if i get time 10 hours ago, ®evo03 said: Have you looked at emissions, mine wasn't fumey and driving well, but was off the scale on emissions, suspect carb spacer perished. The rolling road tune went through the emissions He said was running too lean hence the larger jets etc. But he missed the air leak under the carb which i confirmed with brake cleaner spray causing engine to stall. I dont think my rubber is split or perished - its more the metal plate in the rubber is warped causing a bad surface to bolt the carb down to. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Abbott Posted 15 hours ago Share Posted 15 hours ago If you want to bin the weber I have a perfect condition varajet 2 carb and manifold with a great condition rubber mount too. I have just taken it off my 1800 coupe and that car could start and drive from one end of the country to the other no bother at all. £100 It gave great power delivery and never let me or Kyle down Sounds good too! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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