mantadoc Posted May 17, 2009 Share Posted May 17, 2009 Take it off or a few inches out to save digging into the sill / pillar seam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowy Posted May 18, 2009 Author Share Posted May 18, 2009 Take it off or a few inches out to save digging into the sill / pillar seam. The rear of the sill is so bad that I’ve decided to change the whole sill. So that makes the decision easy. The sill and jacking point are coming off. But I’ll do the jacking point first to get at the chassis rail as not to weaken the structure to much. The the sill can come off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowy Posted May 26, 2009 Author Share Posted May 26, 2009 If I cannot convince anyone to scrape underseal for fun how about for safety?? How many of you carry your children in the car thinking they are safe because you have rear seatbelts?? This seatbelt reinforcement came off in my hand, but to look at was perfect. So get in there and have a good look at yours. Better to be safe than sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keith1200 Posted May 26, 2009 Share Posted May 26, 2009 It's amazing wot the underseal hides Have you used the chassis paint yet? I was looking at the tins today! and the instructions are weird! something like; add tin A with tin B, then add harder I'm going to try the heat gun, to remove the underseal on mines the wire brush, takes to long Looking forward to updates Cheers Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowy Posted May 27, 2009 Author Share Posted May 27, 2009 It's amazing wot the underseal hides Have you used the chassis paint yet? I was looking at the tins today! and the instructions are weird! something like; add tin A with tin B, then add harder I'm going to try the heat gun, to remove the underseal on mines the wire brush, takes to long Looking forward to updates Cheers Keith Not tried the paint yet. But you just add equal amounts of part A to B to use it. Only thin it, with supplied thinners, if you intend to spray it on. But the company recommend using a stiff brush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowy Posted May 29, 2009 Author Share Posted May 29, 2009 Took the jacking point off this afternoon. Glad i did. A section of chassis rail about twelve inches long needs replacing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowy Posted May 30, 2009 Author Share Posted May 30, 2009 Removed the rotten outter ready to clean up the inner and let new metal in. Or in this case old metal.... When breaking a car always keep everything. I have a few sections of old chassis rails in good condition. Easier than making a new piece and looks more original too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowy Posted May 31, 2009 Author Share Posted May 31, 2009 Well it's not the prettiest repair in the world. It is strong and once seam sealed and undersealed it will look fine. Got to clean up the jacking point, repair the floor above where it joins the sill, and put it back on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowy Posted July 12, 2009 Author Share Posted July 12, 2009 Haven't done anything for a while due to work and other commitments. Managed to make a repair panel for the wafer thin metal above the jacking point on the drivers side.. Just got to cut the old section out and weld the new in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowy Posted October 17, 2009 Author Share Posted October 17, 2009 Been a while since i have posted on here. Lots done but still lots more to do... Just trying out the two pack epoxy rust inhibiting primer from rustbuster.co.uk. I will let people know how it fairs up to the weather. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stradacab Posted October 17, 2009 Share Posted October 17, 2009 Nice work there! Great idea about the chassis salvage I noticed from an earlier post too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowy Posted October 18, 2009 Author Share Posted October 18, 2009 Time to remove the rotten nose cone now. It came off very easily. Luckily the rot had only just spread into the mounting flange on the drivers side. Should be an easy repair. I always leave the bonnet on when removing the nose cone. Gives a good guide to refitting the new one. Just make sure you are happy with the fit and alignment before you remove the nose cone. I have a four slot nose cone that is going on. But if any one has a good two slot nose cone drop me an email. Distance is not an object. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowy Posted October 18, 2009 Author Share Posted October 18, 2009 Just thought i'd trial fit the four slot nose cone i have. Anyone want a half decent chassis cross member?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stradacab Posted October 18, 2009 Share Posted October 18, 2009 Wondered why you were doing a slotted cone? On purpose, or 'cause you don't have a Vauxhall one? Not critisizing, just curious! Really nice to see someone going to town on a Cavalier, just bought one myself! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowy Posted October 18, 2009 Author Share Posted October 18, 2009 I prefer the way the slotted nose cones look. The only thing i do not like about the cavaliers. I would prefer a two slot nose cone though. If the original hadn't been so rotten i would have repaired it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garymanc Posted October 18, 2009 Share Posted October 18, 2009 good update,all the thread is good reading to see how to do the repairs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowy Posted October 30, 2009 Author Share Posted October 30, 2009 (edited) Thanks for the comments. I have spent some time lining up the nose cone properly today. Decided to bolt the nose cone on. I have four M10 fasteners in at the moment. I will be adding more but the fit is good. I'm going to weld the nuts in place to make it easier to remove/replace the nose cone. I was also thinking of sending the nose cone off to SPL to get all the rust removed and have it caoted. Has anyone had this done??? Edited October 30, 2009 by Snowy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stradacab Posted October 30, 2009 Share Posted October 30, 2009 I wouldn't bother wilth the SPL thingy. You can colour the inside when you paint and use satin black hammerite on the hidden stuff. The cone looks in good nick and the paint that is on there in the nooks and crannies is protecting the metal already. Just my opinion, but you did ask! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keith1200 Posted October 30, 2009 Share Posted October 30, 2009 Hmm sounds like a good idea The only possible drawback, I can think off; is vibrational noise at speeds. However; I'm guessing Once its all painted up? I'd grease all the joints. Def an interesting idea Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowy Posted October 30, 2009 Author Share Posted October 30, 2009 Where ever there was a spot weld i will add a fastener, so vibration noise will not be an issue. Also i 'm going to put some sort of sealant between the join before i bolt it up to help protect the main joint from corrosion. The SPL idea was to give the nose cone some added protection. I'm still undecided on that one though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantamike Posted October 30, 2009 Share Posted October 30, 2009 Very interesting this removable nosecone, I've been pondering about the idea aswell a while back when I had to replace the nosecone on my coupe. Might be a pretty good idea for my ascanta project, so in a day it kan be turned back into a manta Keep up the good work on the cavvy and look forward to more photo's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowy Posted October 31, 2009 Author Share Posted October 31, 2009 Welded the nuts onto the nose cone mount this morning. Everything is all aligned now.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stradacab Posted October 31, 2009 Share Posted October 31, 2009 Those panel gaps look smack-on. You should be well pleased Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowy Posted October 31, 2009 Author Share Posted October 31, 2009 I am pleased, it's easy if you plan ahead. Align the bonnet to the original wings and nose cone before you remove anything. Spend as long as it takes to get it right before a nut or bolt is removed. Measure the gaps that you have and note them down. Once you have stripped the wings away and nose cone you can use the bonnet that you spent so long aligning as a datum for the wings and nose cone. You even have measurements of what the panel gaps were before you started so you don’t sit there thinking 'That doesn't look right' later on. It should all fall into place quite easy. Just spend that time in the beginning getting the bonnet right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keith1200 Posted October 31, 2009 Share Posted October 31, 2009 (edited) It's looking good [edit] Keith Edited November 1, 2009 by keith1200 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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