Rick-Manta Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 How do! I'm looking for a replacement differential for a Manta 1.8S, given how many were broken for their XE bits, I'd have thought there would be a few about. I suppose I could use a 3.44 one if someone would see it to me cheap as it'd be interesting to see the top speed with that and bigger wheels and not only that, the 'longer legged' an old car is, the lower the engine will rev at the equivalent speed and will techinically last longer. However would prefer the 1.8S ratio.. I'm based in Bishopsworth which is in South Bristol, I can collect if fuel range is less than a courier.. I may also need some fitting advise once I have it as how do you disconnect a solid axle from it? There are no external driveshafts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blitzi Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 all good 221356458825 on eba the noo bud 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick-Manta Posted January 19, 2014 Author Share Posted January 19, 2014 Thanks mate :-) I'll message the seller to see if he can take the diff out for me. The listing sounds as though he just wants what's left of it gone, he's only a bit over an hour away so a shame I can't transport the entire rear axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Abbott Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 If you're just replacing the CWP you will have to have the crush washer replaced and the axle mesh set. Cheaper to just swop the full axle or just stick the new CWP in and cross your fingers :-) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick-Manta Posted January 19, 2014 Author Share Posted January 19, 2014 Thanks Kev, it's to replace a welded diff that stops the two wheels turning independantly, so would look like I need at least more than one cog.. Crush washer.. Axle mesh.. I thought you could just pop one in (to a degree) The full axle would be great/a bit easier, however it would have to be reasonably local and I'd need to hire a van, so opting for the diff swap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
upk Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 I would have thought an axle with the torque tube and link arms removed would fit in the back of your hatch?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stradacab Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 Did you buy that hatch then? Looked like a really good one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick-Manta Posted January 19, 2014 Author Share Posted January 19, 2014 (edited) It probably would Kev, but it's a project now, not road going, no insurance, etc. It'll never fit in my Chevy. James, yes mate. It's a beauty, but then what Manta isn't?! I'll be giving it a good once over when I've got a bit more time to me sen, as I've not seen the underside, chassis rails and usual problem areas. The engine is running rather lovely, electrics are good, clutch, brakes, gearbox feel in great order, very pleased with the suspension and although the back ones are knackered because of the diff, it does have racing tyres which I wasn't expecting. Not really a downside as I was skeptical of the 35k on the dash from the start and it wasn't advertised as 'definate', with the tell tale gearknob and wheel wear I'm certain it's 135k but as I say, the engine is running so smoothly (bit of over-run/dieseling but no pinking) it's clearly been looked after. 'Tocca' who I bought it off said the elderly chap that owned it a couple of owners ago had it long term and took care of it, even buying it back off insurers when it had been cat-c damaged, and had it until he passed away. The diff is an absolute nightmare to drive around town, I took it to show my daughter and trying to park it I thought I was going to break the axle, hence why the diff is a priority, also the front wheel alignment has excessive toe out so the steering snatches about but that's good as someone is going to show me how to do non-laser DIY wheel alignment. A Manta for £1000 and even got it delivered for £60 I certanly feel like I've got an excellent car, hopefully you'll see it in the flesh before long mate :-) Edited January 19, 2014 by Rick_Manta Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stradacab Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 Great, good luck with the diff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantasrme Posted January 20, 2014 Share Posted January 20, 2014 To change the diff you need to Drain axle pull both halfshafts out of the axle move panhard rod remove rear cover undo 4 bolts and remove diff Then swap the crownwheel from old diff to new diff (crownwheel and pinions are matched machined pairs and need to be kept together) Refit diff and check mesh/backlash If that needs adjusting remove diff bearings and swap shims around to move the crownwheel a fraction left or right to get the right mesh Then bolt it all back together. In theory thats all you need to do, but thats assuming both new and old diffs are exactly the same dimensions and the bearings cases were also exactly the same. However in practice that isn't always the case. The shims behind the diff bearings do 2 things, they change the overall length of the diff from outer edge of bearing to outer edge of other bearing (which must match the gap in the diff casing exactly so the whole lot can't move side to side) Also once you have the correct overall length they can be swapped side to side to move the position of the crownwheel sideways a little (fractions of a mm) to get the right mesh between the crownwheel and pinion perfect. So the odds of 2 diffs being exactly the same with casings being the same also to a fraction of a mm are very very small and some moving of shims is almost always required. Taking the bearings off to get to the shims can be a pain and damage to the bearings is a high possibility if you don't have the right tool. Also in theory you need to check the preload of the bearings in the pinion shaft. That requires the torque tube to be removed and a special tool or setup to check. If its too low you get whine (basically the bearings a slightly loose) too high can cause premature failure. If you need to adjust the preload the pinion gear will be moved slightly which will require the shims on the axle to be redone to get the mesh correct again. Tightening the bearing pulls the pinion gear forwards so the crownwheel needs moving towards the middle of the axle to regain the right mesh/ backlash. All in all its easier to fit a complete axle in known good condition than have to dig in and readjust the shim etc. Oh and one final thing the 3.67 and 3.44 diffs are different, and i don't just mean the gearing. The position of the flange that the crownwheel bolts to is different so you can't fit a 3.67 gear to a 3.44 diff or vice versa 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantaray Posted January 20, 2014 Share Posted January 20, 2014 Got a GTE Axle, if your interested. Been sitting around for a while, but was good when removed from car.£50 collection from Coventry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick-Manta Posted January 20, 2014 Author Share Posted January 20, 2014 (edited) Thanks for all the info Dave, I've been worrying about all this measuring backlash and stuff which I have no previous experience in but seen the shim kits about so thought, how hard can it be? :-D In fact I thought the hardest part was figuring out how you pull the halfshafts out, I'm guessing there's a cap inside the brake drum and an obvious way of pulling it out.. I may end up having to pay to have it fitted professionally, but I'd still need to find a replacement diff. Thanks for the info on the other diffs not fitting, I've been looking at getting a couple of GTE ones I've been offered/seen about. So it must be a from a 1.8.. Chris, thanks for the offer mate but as mentioned, I'm unable to collect a full axle. Edited January 20, 2014 by Rick_Manta Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiney_norman Posted January 20, 2014 Share Posted January 20, 2014 I might have a 1.8 axle available soonish, and I'd be able to deliver. I'll keep you updated... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick-Manta Posted January 20, 2014 Author Share Posted January 20, 2014 (edited) Aw sweet, thanks very much Rob. If you do sell just the diff by itself then I can collect, you're probably a couple of hours along the M4 from me. The full axle would be great though. If I do end up with swapping diffs, anyone know 1) if the mantas half shafts are held by c-clips or the plate thingy? 2) what the backlash or tolerance should be in .00xxmm? 3) if the Pinion gear, seal, prop and torque tube can just remain in place? (as long as I'm swapping for my own crown gear, thanks David) 4) do I grease the bearings when refitting or does the axle oil do all that? Thanks again. Edited January 20, 2014 by Rick_Manta Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MB15 Posted January 20, 2014 Share Posted January 20, 2014 Swap a whole axle over mate, Easier in my eyes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick-Manta Posted January 20, 2014 Author Share Posted January 20, 2014 Thanks Hey, I don't mean to be a grammar nazi but in your signature it's "you're" not "your" twice and "too" not "to" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stradacab Posted January 20, 2014 Share Posted January 20, 2014 Rick, just swap the entire axle, it will save you loads of hassle. I know a garage that can do it for you in town and they aren't expensive, or you can DIY with basic tools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick-Manta Posted January 20, 2014 Author Share Posted January 20, 2014 Great, well I will if Rob has one available soon. I've been watching some how to videos for the diff and in comparison to engine builds I've done, it doesn't look 'that' hard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiney_norman Posted January 20, 2014 Share Posted January 20, 2014 I'll be able to let you know for sure in 4 days and 9 hours Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MB15 Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 Don't worry about my spelling mate, Just concentrate on changing your axle over best of luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick-Manta Posted January 21, 2014 Author Share Posted January 21, 2014 Will do, I'm waiting with baited breath Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick-Manta Posted January 25, 2014 Author Share Posted January 25, 2014 I've had a few potential leads, but still don't have one so please keep me posted anyone who maybe able to help. I've just been paid too, so have cash waiting. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiney_norman Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 Sorry dude, the car I was bidding on for spares got pulled, re-advertised in the parts section on ebay then pulled again. I've sent the seller a message saying I'm still interested but he hasn't bothered replying! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick-Manta Posted January 25, 2014 Author Share Posted January 25, 2014 No worries mate, thanks for the thought. That was the red berlinetta hatch on ebay I take it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiney_norman Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 Yep, it was close enough that I could have dragged it back, had some useful bits off it and weighed the rest in as well as helping you out. Never mind! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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