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1200bandit
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Out in the manta today,oil pressure gauge now works perfectly 

Had the window down at the lights it did smell that it was over fuelling ( running rich) ,starts running spot on 

How is the CO adjusted,will have to remove the spark plugs to see what they are like 

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theoretically you can only adjust the idle mixture via the bypass screw on the airflow meter and mixture at other speeds is set by the ecu as it re eives signals from the water temp sensor and the airflowmeter itself. this assumes that the airflow meter is working correctly ( and no one has played with the internal spring !)and that the temp sensor is reporting back correctly too. 

other causes of a rich mixture would be faulty thermostat,faulty fuel pressure regulator,restricted fuel return,clogged air filter among other possibilities !

also .silly question and i assume the pics are of your front suspension area .

are the brake flexis correct ? they look a little long ?  could just be the angle of the pic .

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Had a scary moment this morning 

Horn stopped working, indicated arm  not returning,slight play in the steering column.

Going to remove the steering wheel boss,Checking what size the nut is ,try 24 mm to big,try 22 mm turn right,left,though it was the incorrect size 

Found the steering wheel nut(22mm) very loose removed it by hand,give the steering wheel a very slight pull it fell of 

When the steering wheel removed found the low part of the boss has been cut up badly,or is corrected ( which l don’t think so)

The little plastic arms look ok , does the lower alloy plate come separately 

Has anyone got one kicking around 

 

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Just looking at some old posts,found one it has a locking tab,and a spring,( the photo is what l found on a very early post ) are they missing from my manta no photo of the rear of the alloy bit 

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Edited by 1200bandit
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22 hours ago, cam.in.head said:

theoretically you can only adjust the idle mixture via the bypass screw on the airflow meter and mixture at other speeds is set by the ecu as it re eives signals from the water temp sensor and the airflowmeter itself. this assumes that the airflow meter is working correctly ( and no one has played with the internal spring !)and that the temp sensor is reporting back correctly too. 

other causes of a rich mixture would be faulty thermostat,faulty fuel pressure regulator,restricted fuel return,clogged air filter among other possibilities !

also .silly question and i assume the pics are of your front suspension area .

are the brake flexis correct ? they look a little long ?  could just be the angle of the pic .

The thermostat,engine temperature sensor has been replaced,will replace the pressure regulator,will fit a spare MAF air filler looks ok ,but going to fit this at some time 

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Edited by 1200bandit
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On 07/07/2023 at 20:24, Jonathan Pounsett said:

Hope these help you solve the problem. You can see that the plastic bit is in a different position in these two photos. One is stuck but I don’t know which. They should be the same.

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Checked the return things all looks okay.have you got the washer,and spring for the top of the column.

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Also have you got the lower alloy bit 

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by temperature sensor i mean the injection one not the one that operates the guage. if you do change it make sure you get the correct type .single element and a circuit across both terminals but NOT to earth.

2.2 and others have a double element type which has each pin via an element to earth.used on those cars for the electronic idle speed control.

what makes you think yours is too rich ? obviously there is the starting injector that runs via the other temp/timing switch. is this operating correctly .also if there are any small fuel leaks (or even minor seepage through old hoses) you can smell fuel ,as can the rear tank breather especially with a full tank and hot weather ?

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15 hours ago, 1200bandit said:

Checked the return things all looks okay.have you got the washer,and spring for the top of the column.

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Also have you got the lower alloy bit 

I don’t have the spring or washer but I do have this ring if that’s what you’re looking for. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Have got a boss which l think is the correct one 

Now l know why the boss on the car was cut up 

When I try to fit the boss the steering shaft doesn’t come out long enough 

The shaft comes out about 2 inches from the brass ring could be about 1 inch short??

Possible that the shaft has been pushed in can l pull the shaft out a bit 

It looks original dose anyone know how far the shaft comes out from the brass ring 

Also how to remove the indicator body from the steering column,have removed the 2 10 mm bolts but come off

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It is a collapseable column, wonder has it been pushed in? 

Not too difficult to remove whole column for inspection.  

Don't think you can tell in place unless plastic plug is removed from shaft. This is down by the inside bulk head.

Are the earlier cars collapseable columns? 

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How does the indicator body come of the column??

2 hours ago, ®evo03 said:

It is a collapseable column, wonder has it been pushed in? 

Not too difficult to remove whole column for inspection.  

Don't think you can tell in place unless plastic plug is removed from shaft. This is down by the inside bulk head.

Are the earlier cars collapseable columns? 

l have removed steering columns from Renault cars which are changing 

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it will only be jammed because the holes will have burrs on them so a good tug should see it free. the shaft fits up to the bottom of the bearing (located in the top unit / hazard switch etc) assembly and is held by the top spring which must be in place to load the bearing. it will be slack without it as its a thrust bearing.if the shaft has indeed been pushed too far down due to partial steering shaft collapse then the bearing will never have been loaded correctly anyway and would most likely have had lots of sideways play ? 

if the shaft has collasped into itself you realy could do with another one ,possibly the whole column if the lattice section has collapsed too and the top sliding brackets have moved but dont worry yet we might be just guessing worse case scenario !

see what you find first.

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Think the shaft can be pulled and repinned, seen them for sale, or someone replacing them on here. 

Unlikely the lattice section is collapsed, as it would have been pushed down, not up. The buck head bolts would have stopped this, examine the two alloy mounting sliders. 

It's a shame obviously a fool without a clue. How do you damage a steering column 🤡

 

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Have done a quick check on the lattice bit all looks good will check for the  the plastic plug,get right under tomorrow to give it a proper check 

What is the measurement from the brass ring to the top of the shaft 

Mine is about 2 inches to the top of the shaft 

it has not been front ended as the chassis legs are solid and straight 

l think someone has removed the steering wheel and hit the steering shaft,    guessing on that but can’t think what else it could be 

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A big thank you to everyone that give me advice 

The indicator body has come off ,Will clean lubricant 

Looked down the shaft the steering lock mechanism is not going into the shaft 

This will explain why the steering lock will not lock into place as the shaft is not coming out to the correct place ,drop the column and the plastic pin looking okay 

I THINK that the lower spring,inside the engine bay,is pulling the steering shaft in ? When l move it with a lever the shaft comes up a bit.
Could this be why the shaft is not sticking out far enough ,if so how do l lock the shaft in the correct place,can l get the steering lock in the shaft will this be in the correct place 

 

Edited by 1200bandit
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there should definately be a spring at the bottom as well because this is also a type of thrust bearing. ( in engine bay between lower bearing and uj)sounds like the shaft has been tightened up too low in the lower uj meaning it cant be pulled up far enough . it sounds like the best way is to remove the shaft and start again. 

insert the shaft after you are sure its ok for length. i seem to recall the haynes measurement being not too accurate ? ?

fit the top bearing ,spring and steering wheel.

then tighten the lower uj bolt.

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The top of the link bar ( don’t know what else to call it) which goes from the UJ to the rack.looks like the is more flat side of the link at the lower part which goes to the rack ,Will adjust stuff hopefully it will work out

Dont know who as done this but they should keep the hands in the pockets and don’t go near any tools

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this is true !

even some garages dont know what they are doing too !.

proper enthusiasts like most on here understand how stuff work and can willingly work through stuff and put stuff together right. 

i always say .... if you want something done quick (not always !) and dont mind paying over the odds then use a tradesperson .

if you want it done correctly ..do it yourself !

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It’s been a interesting morning,afternoon 

So manta on axle stands O/S front wheel removed 

Carried out checks on the steering shaft removed the bolts clean and checked everything,all good 

Removed the indicator housing,found the steering lock will not work as the shaft was not high enough 

Pulled up the steering shaft ,locked workers ,still no idea why it will not

Refit the indicator housing, will not fit correctly 

Checked why it will not fit correctly,the was a sleeve on the shaft ??

removed the sleeve,looked like is the top bearing inner sleeve? ? After trying to figure out what is was.

Have fitted everything back together and is all sorted,indicating working,lock working.

On to the next faulty bit ( don’t know what it is yet but it will come)

How they could not figure this when they stripped it ,it was in a dangerous condition as the steering wheel was very loose 

 

 

?

 

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Edited by 1200bandit
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Great fix, well done for sorting.

One of the nicest feeling when driving mantas is the steering feedback. 

It's nice to have things working correctly.

If you need any pics, measurements etc, just ask. 

Reading your post think the top part of the column shaft has been pushed in, or down.

This maybe has collapsed the column? Check the plastic inserts.

Or maybe it pushed it down so far to bottom bearing housing. 

Tip, if removing the two snap bolts, that hold column lower to bulk head, use a grinder cutting blade, cut both edges bolt of carefully, remains can be gripped with vice grips. 

 

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