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1200bandit
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Carried out checks on the column all good ( in fact l never get the 2 hours checking it back)

Once l knew that the top bearing sleeve should not be there and removed all fitted fine. The shaft comes out about 2’1/4 inches it was only 1/4 short 

if you look a the photo this is how it was put back together.the old sleeve left in

l think over the winter will have to give it a good check as not impressed of what l found so far

 

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Edited by 1200bandit
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i cant see the pics but as you say there is no extra sleeve anywhere. the step on the shaft locates on the bottom of the bearing and the spring loads it all up and takes any slack out of it. who knows what the last person in there did or why ? 

glad you got it sorted. 

 

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I am no expert on cars( mantras) but if it doesn’t make sense is wrong,have not had a chance to road test yet ( considering l have no job but it has been raining a lot) Possibly road test next week before the road tax runs out,Only done about 150 miles since the MOT done,at this rate l my do 200 miles.As for the Fazer 35 miles l think,good job l have no jod

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  • 1 month later...

So it’s that time of year when the Manta gets tucked up for the winter 

Will be in central heated garage 

The road tax is dew at the end of the month £178 for 6 months 

Not paying that just see seating in the garage ( no job as yet)

Is it best to fill the tank ( E5)and add petrol stabiliser or keep it low on fuel but still do the petrol stabiliser 

I MAY have to sell the Manta in the future ( depending on a job)

Any thoughts 

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31 minutes ago, cam.in.head said:

if it were me i would run the fuel right down to empty and then put £20 worth of the lowest ethanol stuff you can find which is usually some form of super unleaded. i use esso which is rumoured to be ethanol free .

That's the stuff I have been using too for that reason.

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2 hours ago, cam.in.head said:

if it were me i would run the fuel right down to empty and then put £20 worth of the lowest ethanol stuff you can find which is usually some form of super unleaded. i use esso which is rumoured to be ethanol free .

It as about 1/4 of E5 petrol in it .,it has been in the garage for the 2 winters did have very little fuel in ( don’t know what fuel) but has been used this summer not a lot of miles (200/250),All ready has some fuel stabiliser in the tank 

Edited by 1200bandit
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Just looking at the first post on this project quote “ it should not be a major project,2 years on cut out all the rust,tin worms welded in new metal”and lot more. 
After all the work put in l my have to sell this manta.Not 100% yet

I know if it does get sold things will turn around and will regret it ,but life gets in the way.

 

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16 hours ago, 1200bandit said:

Just looking at the first post on this project quote “ it should not be a major project,2 years on cut out all the rust,tin worms welded in new metal”and lot more. 
After all the work put in l my have to sell this manta.Not 100% yet

I know if it does get sold things will turn around and will regret it ,but life gets in the way.

 

Oh, that’s not ideal mate, but life necessitates.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Had the steering wheel off to replace the the boss as someone cocked it up. Replaced the boss Refitted steering wheel,everything worked as it should.The only thing is that steering wheel was not straight.

Did not fancy going to a car park removing the steering wheel ( never know things could go tits up)

So trying this way may work hopefully it will,Can’t road test as the road tax has run out ,What’s your thoughts on this 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

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Don’t torque the nut up, just tight and tie it in to laser alignment. Let them reset rack position (central) and set the wheels to a centralised steering wheel. Last one I did here was like £50. But it’s perfect. I can’t stand a steering wheel that’s off, does my nut in! 

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Had the steering wheel off to replace the the boss as someone cocked it up. Replaced the boss Refitted steering wheel,everything worked as it should.The only thing is that steering wheel was not straight.

Did not fancy going to a car park removing the steering wheel ( never know things could go tits up)

So trying this way may work hopefully it will,Can’t road test as the road tax has run out ,What’s your thoughts on this 

The steering wheel was bang on before l replaced the boss,tracking is spot on.The is not road tax on the manta now.

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if the tracking etc was spot on before the boss was chsnged then refitting it in the correct position now should restore it to straight without needing any further alignment checks. plus i wouldnt be over confident in a garage / tyre shop actually centralising it correctly anyway ! 

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On 02/11/2023 at 23:02, cam.in.head said:

if the tracking etc was spot on before the boss was chsnged then refitting it in the correct position now should restore it to straight without needing any further alignment checks. plus i wouldnt be over confident in a garage / tyre shop actually centralising it correctly anyway ! 

The 4 wheel laser kit has a steering wheel locking tool for exactly that, then the wheels are laser aligned. It’s not a £25 job though, but there are specialists that do offer seasonal deals now and then. 

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yes i also do my own laser alignment with a home made setup using a laser pointer and bar setup on the rear wheels to give straight line measuresbilty to the front wheels. this shows if any of the rear axle is bent or the linkages are ever so slightly out and helps to set the rear thrust to near zero which they probably never were 100.000% even when new ?

locking the steering wheel is a must as you say providing it is correctly fitted in the first place aligning to rack centre position. not always checkable with track rod ends in place as the stops can sometimes give a false impression.

plus ive never found a tyre shop/alignment shop that have comparable readings between them. (ie ....one shop says all good,next shop says its out a bit etc ) thats why i prefer to do my own , sure it can take a hell of a lot longer but patience and carefull measuring gets it spot on (not just 'In the green !')

my cavs with gm bushes are set at 3mm toe in and never wear tyres. steering wheel dead straight .

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My only concern with any laser tool (wether home made or cheaply purchased)  that is not covered by rules stating it should conform and have periodic calibration is that the margins you want to achieve are so minor that they are finer than the likelihood of the tool’s calibration anyway. 
However, most acutely to do it DIY is but the optical kits no one wants. Easy to calibrate, takes too long to use at a gaeage as they can’t name any money from them.

Stay away from garages that do not have the full 4wheel alignment, not just the two & mirror kits . 
this is what you should be seeking  as an example

https://www.reeds-garage.com/home/garage-services/4-wheel-laser-alignment/

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oh yes the two mirror kits are about as basic as you can get and although they should set the actual toe in relation to each wheel they have no bearing whstsoever on rear wheel angles,thrust or steering wheel position.

my setup which works on live rear axle beam/ non indepenant sudpension cars such as my cav will tell me if the rear axle casing is bent,out of line due to trailing arm length discrepancies,wheel rims or the offset of the front hubs in relation to the chassis and body centre line. this is 'in theory' a basic 4 whell alignment realy to 'confirm rear alignment and set front alignment. yes it takes longer to setup .

i begin by levelling the ground that the car is sat on by placing sheets of wood,plastc,tiles etc under each corner as required to get the car level to within 1mm .(using a water level and also making sure tyre tread depth is all very similar )

this setup could take an entire morning to do but you then have a level playing field to  start from.

the equipment that even the most accurate 4 wheel shops use are only as good as the operator and how he fits each sensor to each wheel. i had an issue many years ago between two different tyre shops who both said alignment was out and fine after leaving them .repeatability was not acheivable bewteen them !

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10 hours ago, cam.in.head said:

oh yes the two mirror kits are about as basic as you can get and although they should set the actual toe in relation to each wheel they have no bearing whstsoever on rear wheel angles,thrust or steering wheel position.

my setup which works on live rear axle beam/ non indepenant sudpension cars such as my cav will tell me if the rear axle casing is bent,out of line due to trailing arm length discrepancies,wheel rims or the offset of the front hubs in relation to the chassis and body centre line. this is 'in theory' a basic 4 whell alignment realy to 'confirm rear alignment and set front alignment. yes it takes longer to setup .

i begin by levelling the ground that the car is sat on by placing sheets of wood,plastc,tiles etc under each corner as required to get the car level to within 1mm .(using a water level and also making sure tyre tread depth is all very similar )

this setup could take an entire morning to do but you then have a level playing field to  start from.

the equipment that even the most accurate 4 wheel shops use are only as good as the operator and how he fits each sensor to each wheel. i had an issue many years ago between two different tyre shops who both said alignment was out and fine after leaving them .repeatability was not acheivable bewteen them !

Yup, you’re not wrong about the garages, but as I said specialists do exist and have reliable reputations, but it’s going to take some hunting for sure - only advantage of Google reviews and FB groups I guess to actually get some feedback. I bought a whole garage and kitted it out born out of frustration lol and we still far from where I envisioned it 🫣😂

 

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yes im sure they exist and do a good job but ive had bad experiences myself AND i always prefer to work out my own solutions and enjoy doing so.if it took me an entire day to level up a car and do an alignment i would  still enjoy every minute of it .rwd stuff like the cav is very basic in its suspension system anyway and easy to work on and setup.

i usually aim for zero rear thrust.3mm toe in .zero (or a tad of neg camber) and factory spec caster. 

you would be suprised sometimes how much the rear is offset from zero thrust !  matching springs,tyres and bushes brings them close but never 100%

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